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New delta 36-725 13 amp contractor table saw

209594 Views 231 Replies 47 Participants Last post by  TheLt
Anyone look over the new delta saw? They sell it at lowes. Looks pretty interesting.
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Virtually all saws have both aluminum and steel parts.....i've never seen one break due to corrosion. Heck....many of the craftsman and ridgid saws have a motor with aluminum end caps and a steel body......you don't see the motor breaking in half....

I think your right though.....we're beating a dead horse here......
IIRC, some of the older Ridgids and Cmans had aluminum trunnion brackets mounted to the cast iron table.

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My aluminum concern was more around the gears wearing on the trunnions/worm drive, but in retrospect, the amount of use the gears will see going up and down from normal use shouldn't even remotely cause wear issues. I'd have no concerns with the aluminum trunnions, but that's imo.
ryan50hrl said:
Everyone pictures aluminum to be flimsy and cheap because of beer cans....but If you look into the industrial uses of aluminum, it's plenty strong to handle this stress....the lower control arms on my 6000 lb truck are aluminum....the heads that hold the cams and valves in much closer tolerances than a table saw will need to be are aluminum....and the stresses run for hundreds of millions of cycles without deforming.

Aluminum trunions would be the very least of my concerns on a new saw.
One should take into consideration that aluminum in an engine block is lined with steel sleeves. And for good reason. Aluminum has a poor ware resistance and is not "slick" onto itself. So the metal to metal ware is the killer. One reason is the high oxidation rate. Not to be confused with rust but actually in surface to surface contact it gets worse. The aluminum is really bad. Which leads to many problems down the road. and it's a very short road.

Don't get me wrong, I fly with an aluminum engine.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
Oakwerks said:
Same with Sears.... Very poorly assembled... The wing on the right was so high it wouldn't allow the fence to slide over it....
The fence had a huge amount of slop on the rail...... I can't imagine anyone would consider one based on this example....

Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......
This is the case with many items found in department stores. Lowes and Home Depot are the worse.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
Al B Thayer said:
One should take into consideration that aluminum in an engine block is lined with steel sleeves. And for good reason. Aluminum has a poor ware resistance and is not "slick" onto itself. So the metal to metal ware is the killer. One reason is the high oxidation rate. Not to be confused with rust but actually in surface to surface contact it gets worse. The aluminum is really bad. Which leads to many problems down the road. and it's a very short road. Don't get me wrong, I fly with an aluminum engine. Al Nails only hold themselves.
If you look at the trunnions in this saw, I don't see any aluminum to aluminum wear surfaces.
ryan50hrl said:
If you look at the trunnions in this saw, I don't see any aluminum to aluminum wear surfaces.
That's good.

But then I did look and it would appear that the trunnions do have aluminum wear surfaces and that's just not going to last. Nice looking saw though. I'd take it over the other brand.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
Nice looking saw though. I'd take it over the other brand.
You really need help.
I just found a lowes with one built. Like it's been said before, they won't sell one based on the horrible crap they loosely put together. It also seemed very rickety when on the rubber feet.
rbk123 said:
You really need help.
Excuse me. Just what warrants such a response?

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
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Ya I saw it

Anyone look over the new delta saw? They sell it at lowes. Looks pretty interesting.
I heard or read they are also reengineering their 12" Planer. As for the Table saw, for 599.00 and options such as 110 or 220vac I think I am going to get it and donate my sears contractors (1994 vintage) Which I love, to a worthy cause.
I picked up some valuable information from this thread a couple weeks ago, so I thought repay the favor and relay my experience with my new 36-725 so far.

I bought it at a Lowe's near Milwaukee a couple weeks ago. Price was $540. This was $599 list minus 10% discount that the salesman volunteered. When I went back a few days later, the list had dropped to $570.

Setup took about 2.5 or 3 hours. The next one I do will be half that, but I guess that's typical.

As many have noted, the instructions are very poor. One notable omission is a lack of photos or even drawings of the assembled components and assembled saw. For a time, I was trying to put the anti-kickback teeth on backwards (duh), but that would not have happened if there was even a blurry picture of what it was supposed to look like. The instructions neglected to mention there's a block of styrofoam inside the saw that needs to be removed by tilting 45 degrees. There's a tag on the tilt wheel, but i didn't find that until I'd tried raising the blade and wondered why it was so difficult. That's kind of dumb on Delta's part, but typical of the lack of clarity in the instructions. Oh, and the handle for the miter fence is missing. I need to call Delta.

That said, everything fit together as intended. Once I figured out which oddly named bolt went into which hole, assembly was pretty easy. Better yet, my blade, splitter, etc. were all all very nicely lined up with the table and with each other. The rip fence took just a bit of adjustment. The split rail in the front does not appear to be a problem. It's possible the side tables are a 1/16 or so out of flush, but I will keep an eye on that for future adjustments, and so far performance has not suffered. The fence initially dragged a bit at one of joints between the main table and the side table, but I just elevated the fence a hair with a turn on the nylon adjusting screws. A purist might object to a gap of 1/32 or 1/16 between the bottom of the fence and the table, but nothing I'm working on will slip under there.

So, in use: I am very very satisfied. Mind you, I'm coming from a 1950s Craftsman that was underpowered, had no splitter, kick back or blade guards and required hand-measuring the fence every time. The fence on the Delta sets up square, and the measuring tape is reliable (measure by hand for something critical, of course). The table is large, which is beneficial by multiples of the increased area. The table is very solid, but rolls easily on its casters. I took someone's advice here and spun the bottom assembly 180 degrees so that the foot pedal to pop the casters is on the left, where it's much easier to reach and is not at all a trip hazard. Cuts with the standard blade come out plane-smooth or nearly so, depending on the wood and circumstances. Feed speed is good to excellent. I'm reminded again how tough 2x Doug fir can be, but even that ripped very, very smoothly.

So, I'm sold. It seems to be an excellent value for someone like me who wants a solid and very capable saw but can't justify the price of a permanent floor model, and probably doesn't have a place to put it. My little Craftsman is not even equal to a current contractor table saw, so this is a huge jump. I'll keep the Craftsman in the corner for little crosscuts and stuff, probably. But I look forward to working with the Delta.
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Thanks for that info Paul. Very helpful as I consider purchasing this saw. I appreciate you taking the time to chime in here!

-Seth
good to hear.....
Indeed Paul, thanks for that review of the set up and use of the new saw.
Was in Lowe's yesterday and noticed the price dropped on this saw from $599 to $569. The display saw was a complete mess, as others have noted, but they had one in a box. I really think I may go back to the store tomorrow and pick it up...
Was in Lowe's yesterday and noticed the price dropped on this saw from $599 to $569. The display saw was a complete mess, as others have noted, but they had one in a box. I really think I may go back to the store tomorrow and pick it up...
You won't go wrong with the Delta 36-725, it's a good buy. As I put use on mine I like it more and more. Assembly goes quick, so you'll be up and running in a short time. As with all items that I buy in large stores, try to get one where the box does not look like it has been returned. In the area that I live in there are many Lowe's stores within a short distance. On a large ticket item like this I don't like getting a returned item. The first thing I did after assembly was check the blade alignment to the miter slots. It was within .002". The blade raises and lowers without a hint of movement. I paid $599 for mine, but when the price was lowered a week later to $569, Lowe's gave me the difference. If you buy the Delta, I'm sure you'll like it.
Ed
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I got to see one in person this weekend. Fortunately, the display looked pretty good, except for the fence adjustment. It seems sturdy enough for a saw in this class....now I'd like to see and hear one run. As with any machine....don't judge the performance by the assembly on a display. Setup and blade selection will have a big impact on the end performance.
Other than the one blade alignment issue, everything else checked out good. I did replaced the stock blade with a Diablo 50T combination. The only bad thing about doing this was I can't use the riving knife because it's thicker than the Diablo blade...thus will not be able to use the anti-kickback and blade guard because both attaches to the riving knife. I'm going to buy another blade so I can utilize all the safety stuff.
According to the customer service rep. there is a thin kerf riving knife available from Delta part # 78-965.
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According to the customer service rep. there is a thin kerf riving knife available from Delta part # 78-965.
That's good news, thanks. I'll be looking into that.
According to the customer service rep. there is a thin kerf riving knife available from Delta part # 78-965.
The riving knife with part # 78-965 is for the Thin Kerf Biesemeyer Unisaw Riving Knife as shown here. http://www.tools-plus.com/delta-78-965.html?utm_medium=feed&utm_source=froogle&utm_term=DEA78-965&gclid=CLmy9K_s4L0CFbFaMgodZw4Acg
It is listed as being 2.2mm in thickness. According to the 36-725 manual, the one that comes with the saw is 2.2mm. Is it possible the one that came on the saw is for thin kerf blades?
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