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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this yesterday in another forum and I apologize, but I really need more viewers so I don’t miss someone who might have solved this problem. ;)

I have two routers that cannot be tightened down to hold their position and they have dropped while cutting. My PC has fallen completely out of the base while running and it’s just too dangerous. Not only have I broken bits but there has been too much damage to my work. I’m using blocks and shims as a backup to prevent damage, but it’s getting to be a real pain in the butt.

Anyway I’m not going to buy anymore routers because I have enough, so I want a lift to hold the motor in place without coming lose and dropping.

The problem is the insert plate size of the MLCS table. Its 9-1/32" x 12-3/32" and all the lifts I looked at are 9-1⁄4 x 11-3⁄4.

I’m not buying or building a new table so I thought I might modify a standard lift plate or duplicate the plate using a larger size.

So I’m open to suggestions but please don’t suggest tightening because I’ve been there and done that too many times. And I'm just short of driving a screw right through the base into the motor. :censored:
 

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where's my table saw?
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Have you seen these..

these are for smaller diameter router motors:
Designed to hold smaller router motors Reducer #9568 is designed to hold router motors of 3-1/2" in diameter.(Porter cable 690/890, Bosch 1617/1618, and DeWalt 610 are some commonly used routers).
Router Reducer for motors 3-1/2" dia.
#9568 ................................$27.95

Reducer #9569 is designed to hold router motors of 3-1/4" in diameter. (Makita 1101 is a commonly used router this size).
Router Reducer for motors 3-1/4" dia.
#9569 ................................$27.95




http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/u-turn-lift.html

I would not modify the plate or the table. The lift is the issue, we can fix it!


I just used 2 hose clamps to secure my router motor in my Radial Arm Router conversion:




100 2144
 

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John
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Hi Johnny - You didn't say (at least in this post and I didn't have time to look it up) which PC you are running. If it's the big 75XX series, the obvious solution would be just to get the MLCS lift.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop.../u-turn-lift.html?zoom_highlight=router+lifts

If it's a smaller Porter Cable, it may be worth a chat (MLCS has a chat line during their business hours) or call to find out if they have adapter blocks for their lift. I'm also pretty sure that Porter Cable has a fixed base available for their 893 with a built in lift. Not sure if the 893 and 690 bases are interchangeable (not much of a Porter Cable fan,,, sorry).
Last resort would be to cut a blank from 3/4" MDF to fill the hole in the table, glue it in and recut the hole. :smile:

EDIT - Actually, buying another router with a built in lift may actually be cheaper than buying a 3rd party lift... just sayin.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Johnny - You didn't say (at least in this post and I didn't have time to look it up) which PC you are running. If it's the big 75XX series, the obvious solution would be just to get the MLCS lift.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop.../u-turn-lift.html?zoom_highlight=router+lifts

If it's a smaller Porter Cable, it may be worth a chat (MLCS has a chat line during their business hours) or call to find out if they have adapter blocks for their lift. I'm also pretty sure that Porter Cable has a fixed base available for their 893 with a built in lift. Not sure if the 893 and 690 bases are interchangeable (not much of a Porter Cable fan,,, sorry).
Last resort would be to cut a blank from 3/4" MDF to fill the hole in the table, glue it in and recut the hole. :smile:
Oh I’m sorry its PC 890 and I have two fixed bases for it because I wanted one permanently mounted in the router table. I've given up on the PC basses and just want to something that adjustable and will hold. So why I'm thinking of a lift.

MLCS has there "U-Turn" Router Lift that will fit my table but the adjustment shaft is on the side which will mean I have to drill a hole through my drawers in my cabinet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
....
EDIT - Actually, buying another router with a built in lift may actually be cheaper than buying a 3rd party lift... just sayin.
Do you have a link or name and model no?
 

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where's my table saw?
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use a shim

Depending on the difference in diameter a shim from an aluminum can or a 2 liter pop bottle may work. More specific photos and model numbers would be helpful. What do you think the issue is....wrong diameter motor? bad motor clamp? :thumbdown:

You said you were "full up" on routers. Let's just fix the lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just used 2 hose clamps to secure my router motor in my Radial Arm Router conversion:




100 2144
Wow Bill I sure wish I would have seen this years ago when I was trying to do the same thing. Looks great
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Depending on the difference in diameter a shim from an aluminum can or a 2 liter pop bottle may work. More specific photos and model numbers would be helpful. What do you think the issue is....wrong diameter motor? bad motor clamp? :thumbdown:

You said you were "full up" on routers. Let's just fix the lift.
I’m having more problems with the PC 890 then tightening the fixed base. For one the adjustment rack keeps coming apart.





 

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John
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I’m having more problems with the PC 890 then tightening the fixed base. For one the adjustment rack keeps coming apart.





Hi Johnny - for the adjustment rack, truck on down to your nearest auto parts store and get some blue (medium strength) Loctite thread locker. You may also want to get some Loctite primer to clean the threads on both the screws and screw holes. If the primer is to expensive, automotive brake cleaner also works well cleaning things up and leaving no residue after it flashes off.

On the other, let me test my understanding. You do not have a lift at present, you are looking to buy one to resolve the issue. Correct?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On the other, let me test my understanding. You do not have a lift at present, you are looking to buy one to resolve the issue. Correct?
Yes that is correct. I do not have a lift and I can't find one that will fit my table and cabinet
 

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where's my table saw?
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It's the dang router clamp

My suggestions MAY work, but john's is better... if the adjustment track is coming loose, let's fix that and then see....:eek:

BTW that block will prevent the router from cooling. :thumbdown:
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTW that block will prevent the router from cooling. :thumbdown:
I know and that's why need to fix this, but it beats losing a body part when the router fall out of the base. The only thing that saved me the last time was it shut off when the switch hit the bottom. If the switch would have been on the side, I don't know what I would do except maybe pull the plug
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I don’t think the adjustment rack is causing it to drop because it’s dropped many times before the rack started coming apart.

The adjustment thing just started and it usually jams the whole thing from moving and I have to remove the leaver and pry the base apart to get the motor out. Once the adjustment is back in place and the leaver is tightened, it seems to be holding until I’m right in the middle of a cut then it drops.

Some bits like a rail cutter will hold the router from falling completely out, but severely damages to wood. If I have a straight cutter, the router will drop all the way out with the adjustment rack still in tack.

Like I say I have given up on this aluminum base and I want something strong like steel that will not expand as much.

My Craftsman has a plastic adjustment ring that screws up or down to make the adjustment and it has the same problem.

 

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John
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Sawdust Creator
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That's a great router by the way...I have it (although mine also came with the d handle base) and I can't see any need to replace it. It does every thing I've asked of it
 

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The adjustment rings ...

The adjustment rings work when right side up, not when upside down or inverted in the table. So, If the 890 motor is in the 890 fixed base and the motor drops...what happens? The clamp loosens? the rack is stripped? If the clamp stays tight I don't see how anything can shift. Can you see the router base closing on the motor when you cam over the lever over to lock it? The adjustment lever may be "overtightened" and not allow the cam to over-center and lock.
If you back off the adjustment you may get a tighter grip when it's locked ...I donno? but that's the first thing I'd try if all else looks OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The adjustment rings work when right side up, not when upside down or inverted in the table. So, If the 890 motor is in the 890 fixed base and the motor drops...what happens? The clamp loosens? the rack is stripped? If the clamp stays tight I don't see how anything can shift. Can you see the router base closing on the motor when you cam over the lever over to lock it? The adjustment lever may be "overtightened" and not allow the cam to over-center and lock.
If you back off the adjustment you may get a tighter grip when it's locked ...I donno? but that's the first thing I'd try if all else looks OK.
The 890 just comes lose and doesn’t really have anything to do with the adjustment rack. It just happens that the rack falls apart and I guess maybe it from falling so many times. but I don’t know.

Anyway the main problems with the 890 that the base comes lose. I have to pull the whole thing along with the insert out of the table and tighten the lever screw each time, but then I can’t fine adjust the height.



The leaver pressure tightening screw will not stay tight when the leaver is closed no matter how many times I try to find that happy medium where I can close the lever and it’s tight. I'm sick of adjusting it and I don't even want to go there anymore.
 

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OK, I hear your frustration

However, it's probably a simple fix. Something ain't right with the adjustment screw, either it's backing off because of the vibration Or the pin on the cam lever is loose or worn. There's a hole that looks like it should have the pin protruding from it in your photo. More photos will help to locate the issue. This is either a one of a kind issue that only applies to your router, which would make the most sense.... OR it's a factory design defect, which would cause more folks to complain. Have you searched for that issue with any other forums? I tried but no info.

I know you want a quick and easy solution..... buy a new height adjustable router, buy a new lift that fits the 890, but this just should NOT be happening during use. If we stick with it, I think we can fix it and save you some money. :yes: MIght be as simple as some lock-tite on the screw ....I donno? Is the cam pin a shaft or bolt or a roll pin?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
However, it's probably a simple fix. Something ain't right with the adjustment screw, either it's backing off because of the vibration Or the pin on the cam lever is loose or worn. There's a hole that looks like it should have the pin protruding from it in your photo. More photos will help to locate the issue. This is either a one of a kind issue that only applies to your router, which would make the most sense.... OR it's a factory design defect, which would cause more folks to complain. Have you searched for that issue with any other forums? I tried but no info.

I know you want a quick and easy solution..... buy a new height adjustable router, buy a new lift that fits the 890, but this just should NOT be happening during use. If we stick with it, I think we can fix it and save you some money. :yes: MIght be as simple as some lock-tite on the screw ....I donno? Is the cam pin a shaft or bolt or a roll pin?
I was just trying change the bit and the motor got jammed up and I just spent a half an hour trying to get the motor out of the base. The motor twisted even after I tightened the heck out of it and the two alignment pins jammed in side. I nearly busted the base trying to get it apart.

I just took these photos of the inside to see if I can find the problem.






I'm thinking about getting my dremal tool out and cutting teeth the the base.
 

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A pretty good review by thintz explains the locking lever:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pc893okrvu.html

I would like to see the locking lever and adjustment screw and how they relate....locked .... unlocked. Internet tool malfuction diagnosis suxs. :laughing:


Anyone out there have a 890 fixed base router???? Any issues with locking?
 
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