Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

New to the forums and new to woodworking in general. I Got into Home theater and audio and decided to build myself a couple of speakers boxes made from MDF.

There are 8 mounting holes I drilled through in the recessed area. On the underside i glued in 1/4" extended t-nuts to use with some 1/4" black socket cap screws.

Well one of the screws got stuck and when I tried to loosen it, the t-nut came loose and took the MDF, that it was glued to, with it. So i have no leverage to pull it up and try loosening the screw. So decided to drill it out. Started with a size under the 1/4" and the bit ended up breaking inside of it.

So now i'm stuck...not sure what to do to get this screw out without damage to the box or speaker.

Came here to see if some of you experts had any recommendations?

Urlryn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hopefully these will help.

First image is the speaker itself with the outer gasket on.

Second image is the completed box with the 1in recessed portion for the speaker/gasket/mounting holes (prior to painting and drilling the holes)

Third image shows the speaker in place to mark the mounting holes for drilling (without gasket on).

This last picture, since i didn't have one handy, is showing another person who used the T-Nuts the same way i did. I had heard other people use t-nuts saying the prongs would bend and such and come out. So to avoid that I though adding the glue would give it a bit more support and keep it from moving.

Urlryn
 

Attachments

·
where's my table saw?
Joined
·
27,896 Posts
expert...?

The issue is the "T" nut is on the inside of the box and is spinning with a broken bit stuck in it...right. You will have to access the interior in some way to hold the nut or remove it. I had the same issue when a weld nut came loose inside a double wall tool cabinet... no way to access it. I drilled an access hole and used a vise grips to hold it.
In your case you can saw off the screw head and pull the speaker off IF there is enough head exposed. Otherwise I suggest a hole saw of sufficient diameter to grip the piece of wood and "T" nut, then replace the plug and use Liquid Nails to close the gap. The L N will become very hard and stiff and should be sufficiently strong. Epoxy would be another choice, but it is generally thinner and will run down inside.
Use 3 small screws around the gap in the perimeter to center the plug and one screw in the center to hold the piece in place while the L N sets up. I use the same approach when replacing a plug in drywall. Remove all the screws when everything is solid. :smile:

You can also attach a thin strip of wood on the inside by putting it in across the hole. It must be long enough to span the hole on both sides so you can glue it in. Then your plug will rest in the strip and not fall inside....use glue everywhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Spinning Tnut with socket cap screw in it.....and the screw has the broken drill bit in it.

I can pull back the gasket and reach the head of the socket. I couldn't use a dremal saw attachment and cut the head off being that the space between the speaker cone and gasket is to small.
Maybe if I went at it at a angle...criss crossing it per say.....
Or I though maybe is there a way to grind the head down along with the broken drill bit inside it?

here is a picture of it from above...pretty brutal i know!
 

Attachments

·
Old School
Joined
·
24,027 Posts
Spinning Tnut with socket cap screw in it.....and the screw has the broken drill bit in it.

I can pull back the gasket and reach the head of the socket. I couldn't use a dremal saw attachment and cut the head off being that the space between the speaker cone and gasket is to small.
Maybe if I went at it at a angle...criss crossing it per say.....
Or I though maybe is there a way to grind the head down along with the broken drill bit inside it?

here is a picture of it from above...pretty brutal i know!
Is the speaker to be exposed or will there be a grill of some sort covering the front of the box? If exposed, you don't want to do much grinding if that area will be seen. If the other screws are installed, and can be removed, can you wiggle the speaker frame enough to get a gap on the other side?

Will the back or bottom of the box be seen? A drastic step would be to use a hole saw to make a clean hole to access the inside, and then make a decorative insert/cover that looks intended. Once inside, you can get a grab on the tee nut.




.

 

·
where's my table saw?
Joined
·
27,896 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
all the other screws came out no problem. So i can get a gap about 2-3 inches high. but you have to go through the speaker frame to get to it.
I tried using one of my 36" clamps to put some leverage on it to help lift it up some and then tried to wedge it some .... didn't work out well.
Not sure i could get my arm in there to put the vice grips on it....

I've been using a larger drill to keep whittling it down as you can see in the picture....guess its just slow and go.....till i can pull off the speaker

Urlryn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
629 Posts
Metal grinding and speaker magnets don't sound like a good process.
Why not just cut the back of the speaker cab, fix the prob, then seal the cutout.
Maybe a tapered cutout, then plug with a tapered part????
Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I was trying to avoid opening the box....i'm a total novice at this stuff.
I went out and bought a dremal tool thinking if i grinded down the socket cap itself then i could just push the bolt through with the t-nut and be all done.
with the cap all mangled as it is....how will putting vice grips on the t-nut help?

Thanks for all the suggestions and help btw!

Urlryn
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top