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I have my desk planned out for the most part just needs a few details worked out that I have no clue how to make happen. I will try my best to describe everything I need help with, but if not feel free to ask any questions I will try and reply in a timely manner. The idea I have come up with needs the desk to have its support mostly in the back with the front having legs on the edge of the both sides of the desk. I would like to add end tables that bolt in with the desk to give me more surface area and storage on both sides if possible that can be changed if needed in the future. I am looking at making one of these end tables to be a like a night stand with extra desk room, but area for charging phones, handle gaming systems, and holding along with charging a laptop. The other end table I am not too sure on how to do it, but I am looking at making it a storage with a filling cabinet either built in or slid in. My last request would be to make this desk not a permanent structure in the space, but be able to assemble and disassemble for moving purposes. I can only provide rough measurements for the desk as of right now. Main part of the desk I am looking from the corner to the edge both side 6 ft , 2 ft 6 in height, and 2 ft wide can go up to 2 ft 4 in if needed. For the end tables I am looking at the height and width the same, but length is going to be 2 ft.
 

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The 30" height for your desk is perfect.
I suggest you make it a free standing desk that you can move rather than attaching it to a wall.
You may not need to make it where it comes apart.
If you're cramped for space, you can make it where the two end tables slide under the desk on rollers. They could be pulled out if needed. Total height of end tables would be about 29" to allow sliding them under the desk top.
I would design the desk using as much 3/4" hardwood veneer plywood as can be used in the project.
HVP is readily available in Red Oak, Mahogany, Birch etc. It will make a very nice desk.
Your drawer bottoms can be 1/4" Plywood, MDF or Masonite.

If you're really set on having the desk come apart easily for moving, you should take a look at Campaign furniture. Designed specifically for moving.
 

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I should ask could I also get a draw up on what the desk will look. The free standing desk is what I want just don't want any legs around the inner corner of the desk to make it easier to work on the corner. I wanted the side tables for extra room or storage. Would like the one with filling cabinet to be level with the desk to make it so I can put one of my computers on. I was just only looking making couple of key screws or bolts to hold the stuff together that I would have to take out to make for easy disassembly and reassembly.
 

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This may or may not help you, but here's how I did mine.

I just happened to have an updesk, which uses a T foot frame. I used those legs for one desk, and ikea straight legs for the return. Further, I do know that I ikea now days sells electric lift legs, and while the lift is perfect for perfecting the height, the bonus is, they aren't in the corners. Other companies also now offer legs that are similar.

The two desk tops are not connected at all to each other, just set to the same height. You might not want this, but it worked for me.


Let me attach some photos..

At the middle (the corner) and at the end of the return, I placed an ikea drawer set just under the edge of the desk. The desk is not using them for support, but the desk is set down to touch them (barely). My desk height is approx 26 inches, and that works for me.

For those wondering, the desktops are made of a hollow core door sandwiched to a 3/4 sheet of ply under, and 1/4 inch ply on top. I then decoupaged a 1974 map set on top, then further with some steam punk flavored heavy wrapping papers bought from spoonflower, then 5 or 6 layers of wipe on poly on top of that. That's a personal thing, but I like them

Anyhow, on the return, I used 5 legs. One at each front corner (which of course, the left hand leg of the return is hidden at the back wall where the desk and return meet), and 3 on the back, with the main desk being on the old updesk desk frame (i don't think updesk uses this exact frame any more.)

Maybe this gives you some ideas.
 

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just for kicks, a close up of the surface in case anyone is wondering "what in the heck is that"

Also, I ran a j channel from amazon under the desk, two of the in fact, to hold all cords, and I punched holes through the tops with wire grommets for all wires coming up.

To do it over again, I would have a pop up USB station and plug too.
 

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You'll also notice my laptop on the return. I can easily swing my chair right over there and use that area, and when I don't need the lap top, I put it in the black drawer unit just at the right end of the return. It's hard to see because of the chair, but you'll note a few boxes sitting on it far right. It hangs out proud of the desk return end. It also acts as an "end table" for whomever is sitting in that chair. Your space would of course likely be different, but sometimes you just gottta get creative.
 

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Would there be any way to replicate the legs with wood or metal pipes because the legs from the My Up Desk site are so expensive?
 

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Would there be any way to replicate the legs with wood or metal pipes because the legs from the My Up Desk site are so expensive?
True, updesk is pricey with their stuff, but I can tell you this, my frame has now lasted almost 8 years.

But if you're on a budget today, I would consider looking at the ikea frames.. they have very similar frames right now, both electric and hand cranked.. not that the height adjustment was what you were looking for, but it's nice to have.

Maybe companies like tablelegs.com could provide something, i haven't looked there in a long time.. but I know there are many companies like them.

Also, there are now lots of companies selling updesk style frames, generally they are called sit/stand desks. Just some good old fashioned googling could land the right frame.

Or craigslist.. you never know, you might find one for sale for cheap.

I don't think metal pipes would provide the right stability.. I want a desk that when I put my arms on the desk front, it's rock solid. This also though, is another case for having something solid under the desk at one edge or both. For instance, my ikea drawer units.. that's a solid top.. I set the desk down right on top of them and it's incredibly stable.

Now, it just happened to be pure luck that the height of the desk worked out perfectly to set on top of them.. the desk thickness came into play there, but still, pure luck.... But if you planned it, it could work out perfect. Not to mention, it would be easy to raise the height of any drawer unit...... not so easy to make it lower.
 
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