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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
*pix coming on 10/14 in the a.m.*

I was out hunting for tools last weekend and I came across a Bedrock 608C flatside. I picked it up (15 bucks!!!) and brought it home. During inspection and initial cleanup it became obvious it was going to be a chore to bring this plane back to life. Lever cap is very nice, blade and chip breaker are fine, brass knob is good. The mouth and plane itself are solid, but there is a fair amount of rust on the body.

To make matters worse, the rod that runs through the tote (tote rod?) broke off in the hole of the body. Like I said this thing was pretty rusty. I am hellbent on bringing this thing back to life, so what should I do? I am a newbie, but also handy and ready to take on projects. Here is what I was thinking, maybe someone can offer a better solution.

1. drill out the tote rod, try an easy-out to get the rest of the rod out of that hole.
2. use electrolysis method of cleaning up the plane (I have the battery charger and a piece of rebar, just need washing powder)
3. engine enamel for japanning

My questions are should I try the electrolysis method, how do I clean the plane afterwards and how should I re-japann the plane? I want this plane to look nice and keep (or add to) its value as well. I don't want to ruin it. I will post pictures Sunday morning of the plane and all of the smalls that go with it. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks much,

Patrick
 

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You need more than cleaning

http://recordhandplanes.com/parts-and-sizes.htmlCleaning to me would infer just removing the decades of grime and dirt.

It sounds like the plane needs a full restoration.

Plenty of threads on the forum of hand plane restorations. Some are mine some are by others.

This is one of my restoration threads. Some of the worst looking rust buckets, but came back to life looking like new.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/latest-rust-bucket-planes-46494/index2/

Post #31 has links to TimeTestedTools restoration blog, a thread on using oxalic acid for rust removal and another for using electrolysis.

A product called Evapo-Rust is a fast rust removal. Available at auto-parts stores, Harbor Freight, etc. Not cheap but works.

Oxalic acid also works. Cheap, but not as fast as Evapo-Rust.

Both Evapo-Rust and oxalic acid will not have paint or plating.

Electrolysis will remove rust, most of the paint and may attack plating.

All the methods can leave a patina on the metal. This is removed with a fine grit of wet-dry paper.

Expect to need to do some final scraping of stubborn paint.

Post #21 has the type of paint I use.
Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint as recommended by TimeTestedTools and others.

I would try rust penetrant to get the tote screw out. KROIL is the best on the market, but you need to mail order, not in local stores.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

If you use a screw extractor, try not to damage the threads. This is old style thread, British Whitworth.

This sites shows the thread specifications and sizes. It is a Record site, but Record followed the Stanley specifications.

http://recordhandplanes.com/parts-and-sizes.html
 

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see if this answers some of the questions, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/bench-plane-restore-the-dw-way/

An easy out with some heat should remove the tote screw. Just be easy on the heat, you don't want to warp the plane. If you just can't get it out, there are 2 ways to fix it. 1 drill it and order a tap from http://stjamesbaytoolco.com/ (go to tools, and stanley Reproduction Replacement Parts and look for the tap and die set) or I've replaced them with just 1/4 x 20 rod. You'll need to either retap the brass nut or make a new one from 7/16" brass rod.

To please the restoration gods, you'll need to post some pictures along the way.
 
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