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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Yes, that's what I'd do. Cut one side to 2" then flip it and cut the other side. Hopefully your glue-up left the board ends a reasonable distance from each other so you shouldn't have to cut off very much. Just clean up the edge. You should be able to get close enough that any evidence can be erased with a sander. I've also seen this done with a router in a build from one of the WW mags.
I think this is my best bet to minimize the end clean up I'll need to do with a straight bit in my router. After reading some circular saw research, I'm leaning toward the Milwaukee 6390-20 with a tilt-lok handle for $129. It has a lot of good reviews.
 

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That'll work! :thumbsup:

I splurged on a Milwaukee router and couldn't be happier. I'm jonesing for more Milwaukee tools including that circ. saw. Just not in the budget yet. I've got an older B&D that needs a serious attitude adjustment. :laughing:

Good luck and throw some pix up when you can. :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
That'll work! :thumbsup:

I splurged on a Milwaukee router and couldn't be happier. I'm jonesing for more Milwaukee tools including that circ. saw. Just not in the budget yet. I've got an older B&D that needs a serious attitude adjustment. :laughing:

Good luck and throw some pix up when you can. :smile:
Will do, I'll post some pics when I finish this thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
First of all, I router planed the bench top this past weekend and it turned out great. So thanks for the great advice to flatten it over belt sanding it! To plane it, I built the base out of 4 by 8 sheet of 5/8" mdf and attached 1"x4"s for the rails; built the sled from 1/2" sandeply and 1"x4" rails. I cut a slot in the sandeply for the 3/4" bottom cleaning cutting bit. It took me about an hour to flatten both sides.
So now I need to attach the top to the base and have a question about the best way to do this. Since the top will expand/contract over the next year, should I attach it with L brackets, but drill an oversized slot into each bracket to allow for slide movement? Is there a better way to attach it other than L brackets? If I attach allowing for movement, how much should I expect the top to expand/contract?
 

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Does it join your base by sitting on four fat posts (like mine) or do you have some other type base? My top I just laid on the four posts, and secured with four l-brackets. It hasn't moved, but then iagain it's heavy enough I could have just laid it up there with no brackets. When I did it with 2x4 on edge the base was 4x4 posts, again I just used L-brackets to secure. No allowances made for movement.

If your boards are on edge, then the majority of your movement should theoretically be up/down, not side to side so I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
joesbucketorust

I attached two pics showing where the bench lies now. The top will sit on two rails and have plenty of areas to attach the L brackets. I plan to sand and apply danish oil to the top this weekend and finish this up...for now. I'll cut some bench dogs once I pick up a couple vices for the front and side.
 

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The last work bench I built was about 2 years ago and the top was made with a 18"x16'x 3-1/8" laminated beam with out the crown (which I ordered at the local lumber yard for about $155.00) These work great for work bench tops cause there is only one glue line in the middle. The top I built finished about 35"w x 94"L and cut my square dog holes with a 3/4" mortise bit. My dogs were then made out of 5/4" Ipe for strength.
 

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kpo101 said:
The last work bench I built was about 2 years ago and the top was made with a 18"x16'x 3-1/8" laminated beam with out the crown (which I ordered at the local lumber yard for about $155.00) These work great for work bench tops cause there is only one glue line in the middle. The top I built finished about 35"w x 94"L and cut my square dog holes with a 3/4" mortise bit. My dogs were then made out of 5/4" Ipe for strength.
Sounds great. Can we see pictures?
 

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Going to use Gorilla wood glue. Do you recommend anything better?
Spit is better than that stuff.

Gorilla glue was developed as a tropical ( super humid) environment glue for oily hardwoods for the sweat shop patio furniture assembly industry.

It was a failure.

But it was an expensive failure that cause d people to put on their thinking caps to see if they could still make it pay. Soooooo the people whom I despise most in the world (marketing) decided to re-brand the failure and market it to unsuspecting people promising all manner of things about it's strength and wonderfulness. All false promises.

It is not strong, it is not sturdy, it does not gap fill, it does not adhere well at all.
BEHOLD the power of marketing.

You want a superb glue? Titebond. Any of them is worlds and worlds better than that gorilla garbage.

Did you know that Sam Maloof only used plain old white glue on his rocking chair rails?

Oh by the way: Nice progress on the bench~!!
 

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Spit is better than that stuff.

Gorilla glue was developed as a tropical ( super humid) environment glue for oily hardwoods for the sweat shop patio furniture assembly industry.

It was a failure.

But it was an expensive failure that cause d people to put on their thinking caps to see if they could still make it pay. Soooooo the people whom I despise most in the world (marketing) decided to re-brand the failure and market it to unsuspecting people promising all manner of things about it's strength and wonderfulness. All false promises.

It is not strong, it is not sturdy, it does not gap fill, it does not adhere well at all.
BEHOLD the power of marketing.

You want a superb glue? Titebond. Any of them is worlds and worlds better than that gorilla garbage.

Did you know that Sam Maloof only used plain old white glue on his rocking chair rails?

Oh by the way: Nice progress on the bench~!!
Interesting, I didn't know that about Gorilla Glue. I ended up using Titebond III to give me extra set up time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Except for when you have to move it! How much does that behemoth way?

Nice looking bench either way though, good job!
Thanks for the kudos. Yes, it's definitely heavy. Best estimate is the frame weighs about 100lbs and the top weighs over 120lbs. I have a great spot picked out for it in my shop and I won't need to move it.
This bench is a stepping stone for me to build up my skills and it'll give me a great platform to have fun learning how to do more advanced joinery and projects that will end up in the house (need the wife's seal of approval).
 

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I would use plywood instead -

The four-by-fours are overkill for anything you will do on a bench that size. And they will yield an inferior end result.

Because you want a solid, accurately flat worktop and the four-bys will work against you in that regard. They will be silly-heavy and contribute nothing useful.

My suggestion would be to frame the top in two-by-fours on edge. Use six equal spaced two-by-fours the short way.

Make the legs out of an angle formed by a two-by-three and a two-by-four - screwed and edge-glued. These will also block and gusset the inside corners of the two-by-four top-frame. Frame a shelf inside them about 8" or so up from the floor. A single layer of 3/4 plywood glued and screwed down on top will be plenty but you could add a second layer of it too. Double 1/2" ply might cost less.

If you make it flush-edged with the top framing you can add a one-by detail and slightly chamfer the top outside edge against chipping. Oak would be nice but pine will be fine.

Of course it's just my opinion; I could be wrong. <g>

PHM
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I'm building a bench top made with Douglas Fir S4S 4x4s and want to make sure my plans/techniques checks out before I start. The dimensions are 28" x 58". I'm planning to simply glue them together with Gorilla Glue, then clamp together overnight to dry. Is this all there is to it to make a strong bond and quality top or should I be thinking about doing it another way?

Thanks.
 

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joesbucketorust

I attached two pics showing where the bench lies now...
Nice top. Just a few brackets should hold it, it shouldn't be moving enough to worry about elongated holes. You might want to wait until you get the vises before installing the top - if you need to rout out some space underneath for the rods it will be easier to flip the top than to route upside down backwards while laying on your back.
 
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