You can glue them together.then clamp overnight .That's normal routine. You said Gorilla glue, are you talking about gorilla wood glue or the stuff that expands?blue sky said:
Need help with building a workbench top with glued 4x4s
1 - 20 of 57 Posts
Blue,
I don't know if I would use the gorilla glue, up to you on that. I like titebond II & III. You might want to consider cutting a groove in each of the sides to be glued up and make a spline to fit. It would help you to align the pieces while you are gluing and keep them straight. It will also strengthen your joints. It could easily be done on a table saw.
The other thing you could do is predrill the 4xs and insert about 3 lengths of 1/2" allthread after you glue it and tighten them up for your clamps and just leave them in place. Counter bore the end so the rods don't stick out. Just a couple of ideas for you.
Mike Hawkins
I don't know if I would use the gorilla glue, up to you on that. I like titebond II & III. You might want to consider cutting a groove in each of the sides to be glued up and make a spline to fit. It would help you to align the pieces while you are gluing and keep them straight. It will also strengthen your joints. It could easily be done on a table saw.
The other thing you could do is predrill the 4xs and insert about 3 lengths of 1/2" allthread after you glue it and tighten them up for your clamps and just leave them in place. Counter bore the end so the rods don't stick out. Just a couple of ideas for you.
Mike Hawkins
Thanks for the allthread tip, I like that better than using clamps.Blue,
I don't know if I would use the gorilla glue, up to you on that. I like titebond II & III. You might want to consider cutting a groove in each of the sides to be glued up and make a spline to fit. It would help you to align the pieces while you are gluing and keep them straight. It will also strengthen your joints. It could easily be done on a table saw.
The other thing you could do is predrill the 4xs and insert about 3 lengths of 1/2" allthread after you glue it and tighten them up for your clamps and just leave them in place. Counter bore the end so the rods don't stick out. Just a couple of ideas for you.
Mike Hawkins
I wouldn't use 4 x 4's
Reason is almost every 4 x 4 I've ever seen has already or will check. I'd use 2x 4's instead an look for the straightest and flatest of the pile. You are only gonna do this once, and you want to minimize the checking.
If the 28" width is critical then of course you could not use 24" plywood ripped from 48" sheets.Some ply comes in 60 x 60 so that would work better. You will probably cover it with something anyway, plywood or hardboard. http://www.kencraftstore.com/ply3.htm
Every one of my benches is made from a solid core door in 30" wide and 6'8" long covered with 1/4" hardboard except one, which is laminated maple 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" x random lengths. It's a beautiful top and more of a showpiece than a work surface at least so far. bill
Reason is almost every 4 x 4 I've ever seen has already or will check. I'd use 2x 4's instead an look for the straightest and flatest of the pile. You are only gonna do this once, and you want to minimize the checking.
If the 28" width is critical then of course you could not use 24" plywood ripped from 48" sheets.Some ply comes in 60 x 60 so that would work better. You will probably cover it with something anyway, plywood or hardboard. http://www.kencraftstore.com/ply3.htm
Every one of my benches is made from a solid core door in 30" wide and 6'8" long covered with 1/4" hardboard except one, which is laminated maple 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" x random lengths. It's a beautiful top and more of a showpiece than a work surface at least so far.
billThanks for the tip about using 2x4s instead. I haven't picked up the lumber yet and will give it some thought before I do. If I stick with the 4x4s, I can rip them to make sure they're square. One reason for the 4x4s is cost (only $14.81 for a 20' length at my local HD, so I can build this bench top for less than $30 in lumber). 2x4s would cost more.Reason is almost every 4 x 4 I've ever seen has already or will check. I'd use 2x 4's instead an look for the straightest and flatest of the pile. You are only gonna do this once, and you want to minimize the checking.
If the 28" width is critical then of course you could not use 24" plywood ripped from 48" sheets.Some ply comes in 60 x 60 so that would work better. You will probably cover it with something anyway, plywood or hardboard. http://www.kencraftstore.com/ply3.htm
Every one of my benches is made from a solid core door in 30" wide and 6'8" long covered with 1/4" hardboard except one, which is laminated maple 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" x random lengths. It's a beautiful top and more of a showpiece than a work surface at least so far.
false economy possibly here
bill
Go and sight down one of those 20 footers and then see how much you want them. !0 ft 2xs arent that expensive and will bend to clamp pressure easier than a 4 x 4 if they are a little warped. And you will not want to rip the 4 x 4s they will curve like crazy after they're cut and to top it all off a 10" saw blade will cut up at most 3 1/4" and the 4 x 4 measures 3 1/2". All this is free advice of course is based on experience.
bill
Okay, based on what everyone is saying, I'm a little nuts for wanting to build this with 4x4s. I get the concept of 2x4s being more flexible and a better option, even though it'll cost more. From the start, I thought it would be easier with less parts, but it doesn't sound like I had thought it through. I'll change my plans for 2x4s and I'll still use three allthreads to clamp them together, instead of dowels.Go and sight down one of those 20 footers and then see how much you want them. !0 ft 2xs arent that expensive and will bend to clamp pressure easier than a 4 x 4 if they are a little warped. And you will not want to rip the 4 x 4s they will curve like crazy after they're cut and to top it all off a 10" saw blade will cut up at most 3 1/4" and the 4 x 4 measures 3 1/2". All this is free advice of course is based on experience.
I appreciate everyone giving their candid advice to save me some sweat trying to overcome a bad plan.
I'd like the "buther block" look when done. My question is without planning the 2x4 faces, would I get the look I want OR will it be sloppy looking.Go and sight down one of those 20 footers and then see how much you want them. !0 ft 2xs arent that expensive and will bend to clamp pressure easier than a 4 x 4 if they are a little warped. And you will not want to rip the 4 x 4s they will curve like crazy after they're cut and to top it all off a 10" saw blade will cut up at most 3 1/4" and the 4 x 4 measures 3 1/2". All this is free advice of course is based on experience.
2
If you want the butcher block look, you will have to have the 1.5" edge on top. I won't repeat removing the rounded edges, as that has been suggested a few times already.
I will say that wider boards, like 2x6, or 2x8 usually are more select than 2x4's. If you orient the wide face for the top, you don't need too many. If you buy 10' lengths you'll get two per length.
IMO, whichever way you orient the lumber, i.e., on edge or flat, and try to do a glue up with all thread, it won't work like using clamps and cauls. I know because I've tried to do it that way. By the time you drill all the holes, get the glue applied, get the rod in, washers, and nuts, and start to tighten them up, your glue will start to kick. You may not have enough time to line everything up, as the nuts on the thread don't turn that fast.
![]()
![]()
.
I will say that wider boards, like 2x6, or 2x8 usually are more select than 2x4's. If you orient the wide face for the top, you don't need too many. If you buy 10' lengths you'll get two per length.
IMO, whichever way you orient the lumber, i.e., on edge or flat, and try to do a glue up with all thread, it won't work like using clamps and cauls. I know because I've tried to do it that way. By the time you drill all the holes, get the glue applied, get the rod in, washers, and nuts, and start to tighten them up, your glue will start to kick. You may not have enough time to line everything up, as the nuts on the thread don't turn that fast.
.
1 - 20 of 57 Posts
