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Really underground garage
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Back in the day before all this fancy electrical "stuff"....it wouldv'e been cut with a handsaw and brought into perfection with a handplane.

A plane still represents an effective and pretty dang accurate way of hitting precise bevels.And they're cheap/available.

This is on a limited basis however.If you need to do more than 20 or so feet.....there "might" be better alternatives.And that depends on what tooling you have available.
 

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where's my table saw?
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where's my table saw?
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32,271 Posts
here we go...again!

In the world of woodworking tools zero degrees is 90 degrees.
So when you set your saw at "0" you are going to get a cut that is 90 degrees from the surface. If you set your saw at 30 degrees, you will get a 60 degree bevel. The result when measured by a protractor is 60 degrees, since 90 minus 30 is 60.
 

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There are some cuts that can't be easily made with a handheld circular saw, there are work arounds. An acute angle can be cut using two straight edges one on each side of cut. One to guide the saw and another to run the base of the saw along the top corner at an angle. The distance for the second guide has to be figured out, not easy but can be done.

The sketch below illustrates the method, if the cut is close to the edge it may have to be done on a sacrificial base with one straight edge and board clamped to base,
 

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where's my table saw?
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that's a good tip

The drawing shows "acute" angles on the workpiece, as well as obtuse. Acutes are less than 90 degrees, obtuse angles are greater than 90 degrees. Small point, but important for clarity. :smile:
Acute angles less than 45 degrees are what would require the method above. JMO.
 

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The drawing shows "acute" angles on the workpiece, as well as obtuse. Acutes are less than 90 degrees, obtuse angles are greater than 90 degrees. Small point, but important for clarity. :smile:
Acute angles less than 45 degrees are what would require the method above. JMO.
I knew that, just not when I typed it, edited post. :yes:
 
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