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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody have a manual for a craftsman RAS model 113.199250? I pick one up at a garage sale for $51. (I know, he asked me what the best I could do over $50 and naturally I was a smart a$$).

I would like to convert it over to 240V and need some alignment directions.

Don't know if this guy is legit or not.
http://www.sawmanuals.com/

If any one knows where I could get one, I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What needs alignment?

The arm to my fence. As I get out to 8" or so, it starts to "walk" on top of my square. The fence clamp is seized up so I can't move the fence. I am spraying WD-40 to try to free it to actually use it, but I didn't know if I can adjust the saw head instead.


Thanks for everyone's help
 

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The arm to my fence. As I get out to 8" or so, it starts to "walk" on top of my square. The fence clamp is seized up so I can't move the fence. I am spraying WD-40 to try to free it to actually use it, but I didn't know if I can adjust the saw head instead.


Thanks for everyone's help
Are you referring to the threaded rod thingies that push on the backside of the filler pieces? Once you get them operational, you may have to loosen up the main table to get it to shift.

I use my framing square against the fence, and adjust the height of the blade to be a hair above the square, and I adjust to get one tooth to follow the square all the way out.




.
 

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You're going about this all wrong. You don't align the fence to the arm, it's the other way around. You really need a copy of the manual. That will not apply to leveling the table, in that case you adjust the table brackets to the arm. Download that pdf file file linked above.
 

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+1 on Fred's manual comment. As far as what needs alignment................EVERYTHING! The RAS is, IMHO, one of the more difficult tools to align properly. More difficult than any TS I've ever worked on. But get the OM and follow the instructions exactly and in order. I have a 60s vintage c-man RAS that cuts true every time. But it doesn't like to be moved around the shop, nor to have the arm angle changed from 90 degrees.
 

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Once you get the arm aligned. the motor can be aligned to roll true on the arm so you get no tear-out on a cut. The rollers have eccentric centers. You can loosen the bolt and turn the bearing to take up all the slack, and get the blade to run perfectly in line with the arm.

It's a PIA with the amount of fiddling it takes, but well worth it. Mine hasn't needed to be touched in 20 years, but I also never change the angle on the arm, or use it for cutting anything that there is any chance of hanging it up in. One lockup of the blade in a sorry piece of wood, and you have to do the alignment all over again.

I rarely use a sled on the table saw because it cuts so true though for crosscuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I downloaded the manual yesterday and saw that the arm can be adjusted by 3 allen screws on the back of the arm. After doing that, it is tracking better but still not perfect. I have a 6" wixey gauge that shows it rolling off by 0.2 degrees at 6". I still need to play with it in order to get it perfect, I just wonder how the guy before me used it the way that it is.
 

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I downloaded the manual yesterday and saw that the arm can be adjusted by 3 allen screws on the back of the arm. After doing that, it is tracking better but still not perfect. I have a 6" wixey gauge that shows it rolling off by 0.2 degrees at 6". I still need to play with it in order to get it perfect, I just wonder how the guy before me used it the way that it is.
It sounds more like there is play in the carriage bearings on the arm or perhaps there is excessive wear on the half round rods they run on. The adjustment for the bearings is illustrated on pabe 29 of the manual.
 

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I just wonder how the guy before me used it the way that it is.
At least some amount of the bad reputation of the RAS is because folks were using them when they weren't tuned properly (IMHO). Like Steve said, it might be worthwhile to check some of the other things for excessive run out, but you're on the right track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It sounds more like there is play in the carriage bearings on the arm or perhaps there is excessive wear on the half round rods they run on. The adjustment for the bearings is illustrated on pabe 29 of the manual.

I didn't get to page 29 yet, but after looking at it, it looks pretty straight forward. I will look at that next.
 

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Does anybody have a manual for a craftsman RAS model 113.199250? I pick one up at a garage sale for $51. (I know, he asked me what the best I could do over $50 and naturally I was a smart a$$).

I would like to convert it over to 240V and need some alignment directions.

Don't know if this guy is legit or not.
http://www.sawmanuals.com/

If any one knows where I could get one, I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance
The motor should have it's marking how to convert it. Go by that, I have had the manuals be different than the motor. As far as alignment, I had an the same model. I found this link that is for the recall but it also gives you the alignment tools you will need
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/pub/sp5983-2.pdf

Bob
 
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