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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought a table a someone had tried to stain the table to cover up some damage on it.
The table then was a different colour to the bench and extending piece in the middle.
I’ve now sanded down the whole table so it’s now a light colour but want to get it close to the original colour. It doesn’t have to be exact as I will sand the bench as well to make it all the same.

I’ve tried about 4 different oils and stains but I can’t get the colour of this bench. It’s made from the same wood. I’m wondering if it’s make up of two products to get the oak finish and black effect.

thanks in advance

Wood Road surface Flooring Floor Line


Brown Table Furniture Wood Desk
 

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Cabinetmaker
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Welcome to the forum!

Nice sanding job -- and thanks for the photos. They make it so much easier for a timely response.

If you're looking for color matches, Minwax stains has a viewing section for all of their available colors. Their charts are quite resembling to what's in the can, as opposed to other brands I've tried in the past. I frequently mix colors to obtain different tones. This can be done with any brand of stains, liquid or gel. You can choose whatever brand stain you desire, but I've used Minwax in my cabinetmaking business for many years (primarily due to local availability), with great satisfaction. I've even opened partially-used cans, as much as 5 years later and used the contents without issues. You just have to stir longer to blend the pigment with the liquid.

But don't lock-in to Minwax. For added color varieties, other brands I've used are Behr, Cabot and General finishes, with equal satisfaction. Those brands also have choices of oil or water bases.

Physical color charts (suggested) are available at most retailers. Colors can also be viewed online, on the brand's website - along with staining tips. If you don't already have one, a color chart should further assist you with your query. And, you can always mix different color stains to obtain your desired color. I do it all the time.

Also, a soft wood like pine is sometimes difficult to color match -- especially if one is yellow pine and the other is white pine. You may never get a perfect match. My suggestion would be to test colors on pieces of scrap pine, before staining your table. This would eliminate the need of extra sanding for color adjustment.

Here's the direct weblink for Minwax colors: Browse Minwax® Wood Stain and Finish Colors | Minwax®

- Bob
 

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I wouldn't stain that wood. First of all, unless you hit it with a washcoat, you're going to get grain reversal where the softer early wood, which is lighter colored when raw, absorbs more stain than the denser late wood, which is darker when raw. The result after staining is that the early wood will be darker than the late wood and will look absolutely horrible.

Personally, I'd just use an oil based varnish like Arm-R-Seal. It will give you a nice, warm color on that wood all by itself. Start with three coats, waiting 24 hours between coats.
 
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I bought a table a someone had tried to stain the table to cover up some damage on it.
The table then was a different colour to the bench and extending piece in the middle.
I’ve now sanded down the whole table so it’s now a light colour but want to get it close to the original colour. It doesn’t have to be exact as I will sand the bench as well to make it all the same.

I’ve tried about 4 different oils and stains but I can’t get the colour of this bench. It’s made from the same wood. I’m wondering if it’s make up of two products to get the oak finish and black effect.

thanks in advance

View attachment 444818

View attachment 444817
You are not going to match that color. It's made from used wood that has natural weathering that wasn't sanded off completely. Now that you have sanded down to new wood about all you can do is make it the same tone. I would suggest a fruitwood stain that is thinned about 90%. Try it out on the underside first, the stain may need to be adjusted. Any time you match a color it takes a lot of tinkering from anyone, even an experienced finisher.

In the future it's a bad idea to sand the finish off wood. The finish will soak into the wood and if there is some spots where you don't sand below the old finish the old finish will seal the wood where the new stain won't take.
 

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This was probably done with a powder glaze
It is a common finishing technique I see on white boards to make them look old. Also used alot over red also to give an aged look. Very easy to use. In your case, I probably would go with a black.

ZENITH WATER BASE TINTED POWDER GLAZE - 1 GALLON
[VL-LWS4700-1T]


Fast drying, very little odor, and cleans up with water!

Zenith Powder Glaze Base is a unique glazing product used for creating "antique looks" and other special effects. Like traditional glaze it is designed to be applied over a sealed and sanded surface, but the Zenith Powder Glaze must be spray applied and then either wiped off while still wet, or removed with a synthetic Mirlon pad (or similar) after the glaze has quickly dried to a powder.

Dries to a powder in 10-20 minutes with normal airflow. This glaze can be topcoated in 30 minutes or whenever it has fully dried to powder form. Zenith Powder Glaze must be top coated.

Available in 4 standard colors

TDS_CA_LWS4700_Zenith_Waterborne_Powder_Glaze_Base.pdf (axalta.com)
 

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Like anything else in finishing, make sure it is compatible with your other finishing products.
This is expensive, maybe you can do a web search and find this in an aerosol can or possibly split a can with another woodworker in your area or try a local cabinet shop and maybe they will sel you some of theirs.
 

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You've sanded the top, you are going to sand the benches, just clear coat with polyurethane and be done with it. As others have mentioned unless you have all the old finish off your attempt to stain may come out blotchy
 
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