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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have tryed making these bowls but haven't had much luck keeping the bark on. I've even glued the bark on with CA.
How long should the tree be cut before turning? Is there a best time to turn a natural edge and is one type of tree better than another where the bark sticks on better?
 

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I have best luck keeping the bark on when I turn as soon as possible after the wood is cut, before the wood has started to dry out (meaning it hasn't started to shrink yet.)

I heard it's best if the tree is cut in winter -- something to do with sap content in the cambium layer between the bark and the wood.

The types of wood I've done it with are cherry, silver birch and apple. I made "square bowls" with a strip of bark down two sides of the square rim using cherry, walnut and flame box elder.

One important thing is to always cut into the bark from the outside -- if you cut up the side of the bowl from the foot towards the rim, you must stop that cut before you reach the bark line or you'll tear it off.

HTH
 

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What Duncuss said. I have turned a bunch of natural edge and after reading his reply realized that I did turn them green every time. I sometimes get bark to stick to the side of a bowl after it has dried then turned but that is mostly luck when it sticks enough to save.
 

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I've done natural edge both wet and dry I always lay down a nice bit of Ca glue along the bark line on both sides of the bowl. Let it dry take my last pass, sand and finish.
 

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I also have the best luck with freshly cut healthy wood. Standing dead or diseased trees usually don't hold the bark as well for me. I haven't noticed one species holding better than another. I personally like a sanded natural edge just as well but admittedly my customers gravitate to anything with bark on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the information. I agree dead or diseased bark comes off real easy. I will try doing it when green. Thanks for all the ideas.
 
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