[rob.hough]

So I picked up my new saw today. I found this on craigslist for $175. It's a Craftsman 315-228390 with a router table like cast iron wing on the left side, and a stamped steel right wing. The fence is pretty solid but I think I'll eventually replace it (not decided yet).

The top itself has a little rust on it but very light. I'm going to take care of that this weekend, and give it a good waxing. How do I lubricate the miter slots, or should I leave those alone? On my guitars I use graphite to lube the metal saddles the strings rest in.. I was thinking of doing the same here...

Also came with a single roller support stand that I'm sure I'll find some use for. I think I did pretty good on this deal. Not the saw I had finally decided to get (Grizzly hybrid) but I think this is a good starter to hold me over until I can afford that one.

I have not actually *used* the saw yet. I was going to open up my book, The Complete Table Saw Book, and follow through it's tune-up/alignment section.

It started a little rough the first few times. Not sure what would cause that. In fact it took it awhile before it would actually spin all the way up. I let it run for a few minutes with the belt off and then slipped it back on. Seems to be running much better now. Still a small jolt at startup though. Would that be normal?

Tune-up suggestions?

So yeah, there we have it... Now I'm going to start planning my first real project with this sucker

 

[Corndog]

Good score!!!!:clap:

 

[Nancy Laird]

Rob, you might try replacing the V-belt with a link belt. They seem to make things run smoother, they can be sized by adding or removing links, and don't stretch like V-belts do.

By the way, nice purchase.


Nancy (100 days)

 

[Gerry KIERNAN]

Excellent buy Rob.

See if you can access the arbor bearings and put some lube into them. They are probably a little dry. If you can pop the seals, and clean them, lube them up with some light weight general purpose grease. If you can't pop the seals try injecting some oil past the seals, and into the bearings. That should allow the existing grease to free up.
If you remove the belt try turning the blade/arbor by hand. If it feels a little stiff that is most likely the problem. If the arbor isn't sticky, then you may have an issue with the motor itself. These motors generally are pretty much bullet proof, but sometimes they get tight from sitting for a while. The only other thing I can think of is how tight your vee-belt is. Does the saw have a tensioner, or is it just loading the belt with it's own weight?

Very nice starter saw. Have fun.

Gerry

 

[jemmy]

New Saw

NICE ONE HAVE FUN:smile:

 

[skymaster]

check the drive pulleys. they are normally held with set screws and/or a keyway. Do this BEFORE trying to use it. Look for signs of slippage, double check all is tight

 

[rob.hough]

I think it was just a little... "rusty". It has been running fine for the past few days. I did replace the belt with a link belt and that has made a tremendous difference.

Next I need to adjust everything and make sure it's lining up right. Also going to replace thet blade. It has some Craftsman blade on it (assume it came with the saw) that probably isn't helping.

Any suggestions on a good "general purpose" blade? I'll probably end up cutting mostly plywood for the next couple of projects I've lined up.

 

[Gerry KIERNAN]

Go for carbide tipped blades. They last far longer than HSS. For a general purpose rip blade 24 teeth is usually good. for crosscutting you probably want 40 teeth, or more. If you are working with plywood get as many teeth, and as thin a blade as you can find. If the results with the plywood aren't satisfactory then buy a HSS plywood blade. Many people out there will probably give name brand preferences, as they will have good experiences with certain brands of blades. I have not settled on any one brand, but I do know that you want carbide teeth for sure.

Gerry