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Saw = Grizzly 17", purchased in 2004.

Any blade works well, until it gets to accurate resawing veneer around 2mm thick. Nothing Grizzly sells will do this well.

1.) Purchased a Lenox Tri-Master 1" carbide tipped, around $165 and it did a wonderful job until it fatigue cracked and broke. Came to find out the thinnest 1" and in most cases 3/4" blades are 0.032" thick and a 17" Grizzly wheel has too small a diameter for a 0.032" blade. That is why it failed pretty fast.

2.) The above scenario leaves only a few options for wide 3/4 or 1" blades. Laguna makes a 1" carbide tipped in 0.025" but it is way above my budget, over $200.

3.) Tried a Timberwolf 3/4" which is 0.025" thick and it works if one feeds real slow. About 9 passes of Yellowheart 10" high and that was the end of the blade. It was dull. The shavings looked like coffee grind.

4.) Decided that due to the limited choice of 1" or 3/4" 0.025" blades available, I might as well downgrade this saw to a maximum blade width of 1/2"

5.) Just got a Lenox 1/2" Diemaster2 $40 4 teeth hook 0.025" thick and we are back in business. I am resawing 10" Yellowheart with success.

6.) I might invest in a Lenox 1/2" 0.025 thick carbide tipped blade, depending on how long the Diemaster remains sharp. Time will tell.
 

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where's my table saw?
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Yellowhart is very tough

If I recall, someone else posted about Yellowhart eating cutting tools
or blades...:thumbdown:

The 1/2" Diemaster 2 sounds like a great deal! I don't think based on my experience and eveything I've seen that you really need a 3/4" wide blade, If you don't overfeed the work and just let the blade walk through it. I would "up" the tension on the blade a bit if it were me.
I don't use the tension guide, but rather the sound/ring of a tight blade.
The other method is the deflection test by Alex Snodgrass, a tap with the finger should move it 1/8"....

This site shows 2 lines of Carbide tipped blades at .025":
http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/woodsaver.html
 
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