Procrastinator (For now.)
In the past I've seen guys who have moved the angle adjustment crank from the side to the front. I now have a need to do that. Anyone know of how it's done or where I can find info? Thanks.
this is how it was done on a TS:In the past I've seen guys who have moved the angle adjustment crank from the side to the front. I now have a need to do that. Anyone know of how it's done or where I can find info? Thanks.
if you really want to make this change, i suggest you study the write by the LJ poster. i followed it almost verbatim and only had to change one or two components. it's a great way to relocate the bevel activating mechanism if that's your want. here's a couple more pics. IIRC, i got a piece of plain 1.2" steel rod and had a local machinist turn one end to fit the 3/8" drill chock of the RA drive assembly and they also machined the other end of the rod to fit the c-man hand wheel. all the other fittings and sundries weer from grainger. the flexible coupling (seen pretty clearly in the last pic) is what allows the RA drive to be connect to the saw's bevel mechanism. one day, i'll do the same thing to my ridgid 2412.Looks great Toolguy. Some of that stuff is over my head engineering wise, but now I have a good idea how it's done and I'm sure I'll bumble my way through it and "git er done"! Thanks.
I use the Milwaukee version shown in your link, and have been quite happy with it for normal drill use. It does require use of hex end bits.