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I am basically a painter, but I increasingly I am called on to do more cabinet tasks since my finishes are so professional looking and there seems to be a shortage of woodworkers who will come out and make modifications for the homeowner. One of the more common problems is the very nice white MDF cabinets doors which have yellowed and now can be converted to a non-yellowing finish and to add hidden hinges, this I can do. But the thin trim at the ceiling is just not good. I know that when I rehang the doors, I can drop them down quite a bit and still not show the opening at the top, and nobody can see a tiny gap anyway unless they are on a step ladder. So I can get a little more room. I haven't measured yet, but I would like to add as much crown as possible, but I am fairly certain that a 5-inch crown will not go. Maybe there is a place where I can order some fancier looking 3 or 3.5-inch crown?

Thanks for you comments...
 

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Keep in mind when considering lowering the cabinets you are lowering the space between the cabinet and the counter too. Also if there is built in microwave or a vent-a-hood vented through the wall you might not be able to lower that cabinet.
 

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Bob,am sure you know this but it's one of those things about millwork.....


Nominal vs net measure on crown(and other trim millwork).A pce of 4" crown(nominal) will usually run 3 5/8" or so,net.Same for other sizes.

Best thing is to cut 4-6" long,"try" pcs.We have an inventory of a bunch of different pcs/profiles.It really is a help when splitting hairs on assemblies......and during the planning phase of builds.Especially with crown,as in some cases(ha) you can change the bed angle to create different aspects/clearances.

Be careful with that because....what's started(angle of repose)is going to have to "end" somewhere.Use it where the crown obviously dosen't have to match anything.And we're only talking a few degrees,but sometimes thats all it takes.Good luck.
 

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When it comes to installing many crown moldings on kitchen cabinetry, we don't attach to the cabinet. Instead, we build a backer on top of the cabinets. How this is made and attached depends on the molding. Typically, strips of wood are ripped at an angle to match the molding. Often, the molding itself only covers the top 1/8" of the cabinet faceframe. You can't just nail the moldings to the cabinets since there isn't enough clearance over the doors. One problem is that you need a table saw and the skills to use it.
 

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Nominal height is 17-18" between cabs and counters
 
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