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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My dad's old RAS finally bit the dust (the lift seized up, the column seems to have seized in the shaft and I also snapped a few teeth off the bevel gear trying to get it to go up / down...no amount of lubricant or heating / hammering will get it loose and I've taken the whole thing apart but can't figure out how to get it freed up) so I'm thinking of shipping the motor back for the 100$ recall and investing in a sliding mitresaw as it's replacement.

Anyways, I'm wondering what the difference between a 10" sliding and a 12" sliding model would be? I have a lot of 12" blades from the RAS which is a plus, but I figure the main advantage of cutting wider stock is negated because of the sliding feature. Is that the correct assumption, and is there any major point to go with the 12" over the 10?

It'd be a cornerstone of my workshop, so I'd rather spend a little more if it makes sense to upfront.

Thanks!

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Another related question; I haven't looked at them carefully, but these may be RAS specific saw blades, and I know they are differen't due to the angle of the teeth and shouldn't really be used in a TS, but would they work well in the mitresaw? I'm thinking so because the obvious similarities in the cutting motions, but just want to make sure!

Thanks!
 

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Miter saw/ RAS blades work best when they are negative hook. Table saw blades work best when they are positive hook. Zero hook will work for either. You don't have to measure one to tell if it's positive or negative. If you sight (or lay on a straight edge) from the center hole to a tooth, look at the angle of the face of the tooth...either it tips forward (positive) or it tips back(negative) from the line from the center hole.






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The primary advantage of the 12" saw is its ability to cut taller and wider stock. This is very useful for cutting taller baseboards or crown. I have used mine for wider panels and really like the larger capacity.
 

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Funny you should mention this...I just bought a Dewalt DW717 10" sliding miter saw to replace my RAS and Miter chop saw. Both saw were old, they still worked ok, but I needed the room and the slider replaced both saws, went right were my old RAS was at before So far I love this saw, very accurate and makes nice cuts, even with the blade that came with it. Does pretty much every thing I need, decided on the 10" because the blades would cheaper, and I don't think I need to cut much wider then a 12" boards, which it does easily. Cost was $499 right now Lowes has the 12" for $599 and a free table (basically a long saw horse) I got it cheaper with military discount, HD has them for $449. I didn't need a table already had a huge wall table/bench, had to raise it 1/2 inch to accommodate this new saw, way easier then lowing the saw...lol..was higher the my old Ryobi RAS. So unless you plan to do stock wider then 12" money wise the 10" is the way to go, and the Dewalt is a solid piece of equipment. Not to mention it is also a compound miter comes in very handy if you ever plan to do crown molding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well as it always goes, first I looked at the cheap hitachi c10fce2 10" compound, for about $130 which a whole lot of people and reviewers like for the money, then I decided on the Dewalt 715 12" compound model for about $230, thinking it heftier and better built but now I might go sliding.

The 12" dewalt was so that you could do baseboards on a non-sliding model, but then I got to thinking what does it really matter if you're sliding?

I have a tablesaw with a sled so I'm not totally sold on the sliding factor for the extra 200 dollars, especially since it would be used mostly for rough lumber (at best I could see maybe cutting stair treads. someday?) but I've learned time and again to save up and overbuy so you don't have regrets down the road.

Are you guys finding the sliding factor something you couldn't live without these days? Any projects where you just had to have it?
 

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where's my table saw?
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12" blades have a 1" arbor

The miter saws usually all have a 1" arbor, so your RAS blades will not work. They will be fine on the table saw, which usually has a 5/8" arbor.

I have an older 12" Dewalt and a 10" Bosch, both sliding compound miter saws. There are a lot of cuts you can make with a 12" chop saw, no sliding rails.

The newest miter saw blades have a zero or negative hook angle as opposed to a positive hook angle used on table saw blades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great advice, everyone!

The DeWalt 715 compound is still seeming like the best bet at this point...single bevel, nonsliding, but should do 90% of what I need, and the TS can pick up the rest...gonna wait until thanksgiving time and see if I can't score it on special sale.

Anyways the one caveat is that this model (specifically latest version, model 3) no longer accepts the laser...i've never used one with a laser but im sure it's a really nice option to have and I'm kind of bummed you can't retrofit it.

Oh well, can't have everything I guess!

Thanks again,

Larry
 
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