That's what I was thinking. I used red oak for the spline, so I was afraid about the router bit spliting the spline. I'll use a hand finnish saw to trim it back and then hand sand it down. Maybe a little slower than the router, but safer for sure. Thanks.Any of your mentioned methods will work. Depending on the specie and how much is protruding, you will develop a comfortable method. For the most part you want to make sure you don't tear or split the spline using a router bit. If cut close, you could rout it, but I prefer to take it back by hand, especially if it is to be decorative.
I would try a "poor mans dozuki"...a simple hacksaw blade used on the pull stroke like the Japanese backsaws. Wrap a little tape around the far end and push down on it as you pull the saw through. The tension should keep the blade flat since you are pulling instead of pushing.Or maybe I should hand trim and sand flush? .
Thanks for all the ideas. I do have a block plane, but am embarassed to say I would probably tear up the woodshop trying to use it. I've never been any good with a plane. I used a fine toothed hand saw I had laying under and behind everything in the shop and it turned out great. Hit it with a sanding block and it's beautiful.How 'bout a block plane??? Surely everybody has one of those!!!
I don't think anything's wrong with the block plane, it's brand new... I believe the problem lies somewhere just behind the plane, probably sitting on the stool or standing at the bench with a stupid look on my face.....:laughing:Well, now that's done....TUNE UP YER BLOCK PLANE!!!:thumbsup: :laughing:
Hummmm..... very interesting. As a bonified new woodworker, I understood the importance of the plane and scraper, but I think I've got a new appreciation. I need to get rid of my junk Buck Bros plane!!!! I think I was more impressed with the scrapers. I don't have one, but I definately need one (or four). Thanks for that video.Brand new outta the box doesn't mean it's ready to use. It's gotta be honed and such.
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