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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the best way to trim the spline? Will a flush trim router bit do it well? Or maybe I should hand trim and sand flush? Never done one, but I've got 4 glued up in the basement and it's time to figure it out!! Thanks.
 

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Any of your mentioned methods will work. Depending on the specie and how much is protruding, you will develop a comfortable method. For the most part you want to make sure you don't tear or split the spline using a router bit. If cut close, you could rout it, but I prefer to take it back by hand, especially if it is to be decorative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any of your mentioned methods will work. Depending on the specie and how much is protruding, you will develop a comfortable method. For the most part you want to make sure you don't tear or split the spline using a router bit. If cut close, you could rout it, but I prefer to take it back by hand, especially if it is to be decorative.
That's what I was thinking. I used red oak for the spline, so I was afraid about the router bit spliting the spline. I'll use a hand finnish saw to trim it back and then hand sand it down. Maybe a little slower than the router, but safer for sure. Thanks.
 

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Or maybe I should hand trim and sand flush? .
I would try a "poor mans dozuki"...a simple hacksaw blade used on the pull stroke like the Japanese backsaws. Wrap a little tape around the far end and push down on it as you pull the saw through. The tension should keep the blade flat since you are pulling instead of pushing.

A block of wood with sand paper should give you a nice flat surface after the cut.
 

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Sorry to disagree with you but comparing a back-pulled hacksaw blade to a dozuki is like comparing rubbing alcohol to 18 year old scotch.:no:

Don't hate me....:laughing:
 

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I was not comparing the 2, there is none. I was offering an alternative and being tongue in cheek by giving the jury rigged tool a name. Maybe he does not have a sharp back saw ,or he would not even be thinking about using a router :blink:. There is more than one way to skin a cat, even if you have limited tools you can usually find a way to get it done. In my opinion a fine toothed saw (push or pull) and a little hand work with a sharp plane/chisel, depending on the circumstance, and some sandpaper on a block is the best way. I am a chicken, I would be afraid of tear out with a power tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How 'bout a block plane??? Surely everybody has one of those!!!
Thanks for all the ideas. I do have a block plane, but am embarassed to say I would probably tear up the woodshop trying to use it. I've never been any good with a plane. I used a fine toothed hand saw I had laying under and behind everything in the shop and it turned out great. Hit it with a sanding block and it's beautiful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, now that's done....TUNE UP YER BLOCK PLANE!!!:thumbsup: :laughing:
I don't think anything's wrong with the block plane, it's brand new... I believe the problem lies somewhere just behind the plane, probably sitting on the stool or standing at the bench with a stupid look on my face.....:laughing:

P.S.
some things you just can't learn watching TV......
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Brand new outta the box doesn't mean it's ready to use. It's gotta be honed and such.

Watch this.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/

Scroll down to #25.
Hummmm..... very interesting. As a bonified new woodworker, I understood the importance of the plane and scraper, but I think I've got a new appreciation. I need to get rid of my junk Buck Bros plane!!!! I think I was more impressed with the scrapers. I don't have one, but I definately need one (or four). Thanks for that video.
 
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