Has anyone used this minwax brushing lacquer, if so can you give your thoughts on it, thx for your time RJ
The reason to sand between coats is to get a flat smooth finish.Roger Newby said:+2 for Deft. Each successive coat dissolves and bonds with the first so sanding between coats is not necessary unless you have a problem with nibs.
BTW....I've been using Deft since 1962. :blink:
Most professionals still regard lacquer as the best all-around finish for wood because it dries fast and is easy to apply. It's a finer finish and what you see as its applied, is what you get. Brings out the best in the beauty of the wood. Isn't plastic. It's durable enough for about anything and can be repaired much easier than poly. It doesn't get rock hard and is more elastic moving with the wood without cracking and chipping. It doesn't look like a thick coat of plastic which chips and is hard to repair without a total resand.CNYWOODS said:Al why stay with a lacquer ?
The point 99% of the poly crowd miss is it doesn't have to be tough. I'm not going to get into it, but do disagree completely. A beginner will have far better results and finishes if he never uses poly. Anything but poly because it doesn't look as good as almost every finish sold. How many times do we spill a puddle of soda on a jewelry box or anything except a Formica topped table. No mater how many coats of lacquer you apply. It ends up being one solid coat.CNYWOODS said:I'm not going to get into it, but do disagree completely. I don't like poly and could careless about lacquer. But by brush in regards to this post he's better off with a poly. Thinned lacquer = many many coats. And even if it was catalized would not be 1/2 as tough as poly water or oil. ( I prefer the water). A catalized urethane or conversion varnish is the way to go. Production shops and your rta cabinet stores use lacquer. Yes it meets the kcm, but just puddle some soda on it for a few minutes. Just my 2 cents. Not getting into it. To each there own.