I was going through a shop project list that I made awhile back and on my list I had a homemade Micro Adjuster for a router table fence. Only problem is that I can’t remember what it looked like or where I saw it. I thought I saw it on YouTube but I can’t find. All I can find is expensive store bought ones which I don’t want.
I was going through a shop project list that I made awhile back and on my list I had a homemade Micro Adjuster for a router table fence. Only problem is that I can’t remember what it looked like or where I saw it. I thought I saw it on YouTube but I can’t find. All I can find is expensive store bought ones which I don’t want.
Thanks John, it took me a few minutes to get the concept but that’s pretty cool. I was looking for something that has a knob to turn for the fine adjustment. I think that instead of gluing the top threaded rod, extend it out the back so that it can turn to make the adjustment instead of hopping along the threads.Just have to figure out how to keep it in place on top while turning.:smile:
I haven't seen either one of those, but the 1st is more like what I'm looking for.
If I remember correctly it works with any existing fence and just provideds a precise screw movement instead of over shooting the mark by trying to push the fence into place.
Actually now that I see how it works from the links you have I should be able to come up with something on my own. But thanks again at least now I have a good idea. :smile:
Thanks Dave, I've been thinking about it and I'm pretty sure I can make one now that I know exactly what it looks like. I could probably do that with a small cheap 'C' clamp from Harbor Freight. Just drill and tap a hole in it for a wing screw and I got one. :smile:
I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.
If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.
I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.
If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.
Thanks I think using the connector nut sounds even better because it could be glued or fastened to a piece of wood and then clamped to the table.
I think the one I was originally looking for was made out of wood and also used threaded rod, but I don’t remember the details. It may have actually used the connector nut as you mentioned. I know the base was long and clamped from the back, I guess anything from the sides would work equally well.
I think only one is needed because router doesn’t necessarily need to be parallel with the table. so one end of the fence could be fixed and adjusted on the other end.
I've surfed this thread and seen some goods and bads. Tomorrow I plan to design and build a small, accurate, cheap, 2-way "micro-adjuster". Stay tuned.
Jimmy
If you imbed a rare earth magnet in the back of the wood fence or epoxy it to a metal fence where the micro adjust bolt/nut contacts it, it will push and pull.
The Rockler MA I bought uses this method and works very well.
I'm surprised the ShopNotes plan didn't incorporate the magnet.
But please see my comment at the end of this post.
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.The micro adjustment for the router fence has been solved. Here.
I spent 2 beers thinking about this, and 2 more doing the work.
First I drilled a 1/4 hole in a piece of oak, (squared all around). Transferred the center line to the back of the fence. Installed a 1/4-20 insert into the back of the fence. (Epoxy to hold it solid).
The oak block has a 1/4-20 allthread going through it with 1/4 Stainless washers inside 1/4-20 elastic lock nuts. (All parts were "polished" on 400 grit to reduce drag.) I then made a fancy bloodwood knob just for sheets and giggles.
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Now that we have all that solved,(to my satisfaction), let's see why we are doing this in the first place. I am almost 70 years old. My eyes are not what they used to be. But I can still see a fine pencil mark (.003") in the front of my router fence. If I need to make a .003" adjustment, just watch the pencil mark when you tap it with a small mallet. A .003" adjustment on 1 end of your fence will give you about .0015" at the bit. We are working wood here. Not aligning a steam turbine in a nuclear power plant. (Done that!). If you need a device as has been described afor, mayhaps you are in the wrong business/hobby. But on the other hand you have four fingers and a thumb.
Well I can see the mark but I want to fine tune it in because I sometimes hit it a little too hard and jump the mark and then have to bang it back again. It’s so much nicer to just dial it in especially when you have to move the fence multiple times. It’s not worth it for me to spend $23 on but to make it myself for a buck then I like it. :yes:
You can go this way. (.001")
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.Or if you are really getting into the thickness of air, you can try this. (.00015")
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.Much ado about nothing. If it moves too far when you tap it with the mallet, DON'T TAP IT SO HARD!!!
My dog's eyes are so crossed, she can see out of her ears!
I thought I would test the adjuster I made. So I trightened the fence down, installed 2 dial indicators, 1 in the middle, 1 even with the device. Loosened the fence turned the knob an estimated 1/2 turn, tightened the fence and got a +.025 on the end and +.012 in the middle. A full turn gave me .05 and .025. (Using 1/4-20 rod, 1 full turn = 1/20" = .050") Amazingly, using the elastic lock nuts eliminated ALL slop in turning the knob. If I watched the indicator, I could move the fence .001" at a time. It also works in reverse. I'm quite proud of this thing, but will probably never use it. I found that a gentle peck with the small plastic mallet CAN move the fence more than you might want. (Maybe I need a smaller pecker). A dial on the back of the adjuster and a pointer on the knob may help. Also finer threads on the rod.
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