Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,526 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was going through a shop project list that I made awhile back and on my list I had a homemade Micro Adjuster for a router table fence. Only problem is that I can’t remember what it looked like or where I saw it. I thought I saw it on YouTube but I can’t find. All I can find is expensive store bought ones which I don’t want.

Anybody have plans for one?
 

·
John
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
I was going through a shop project list that I made awhile back and on my list I had a homemade Micro Adjuster for a router table fence. Only problem is that I can’t remember what it looked like or where I saw it. I thought I saw it on YouTube but I can’t find. All I can find is expensive store bought ones which I don’t want.

Anybody have plans for one?
Hi Johnny - you might try here
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jigs/shop-made-micro-adjustment-jig/

Good Luck :smile:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sleeper

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,526 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks John, it took me a few minutes to get the concept but that’s pretty cool. I was looking for something that has a knob to turn for the fine adjustment. I think that instead of gluing the top threaded rod, extend it out the back so that it can turn to make the adjustment instead of hopping along the threads.Just have to figure out how to keep it in place on top while turning.:smile:
 

·
John
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
Thanks John, it took me a few minutes to get the concept but that’s pretty cool. I was looking for something that has a knob to turn for the fine adjustment. I think that instead of gluing the top threaded rod, extend it out the back so that it can turn to make the adjustment instead of hopping along the threads.Just have to figure out how to keep it in place on top while turning.:smile:
Hi Johnny - I apologize, I didn't open the pdf and look at the plan until after I posted it and then got tied up on something else. To be honest, I'm not overly impressed with that approach.

I have seen some that utilize an 8-32 male knob and a brass threaded insert but can't herd enough brain cells together to remember where. Seems like those just work on one end of the fence also. That's not really a bad thing, it eliminates needing to gang two adjustments together to make sure everything moves the same amount.
Good Luck, if I run across anything, I'll post it.:smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,526 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is this the type of mechanism you are looking to build?

Pat Warner article in FWW.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/micro-adjustable-router-fence.aspx

Pat Warner's site.

http://www.patwarner.com/routerfence.html
I haven't seen either one of those, but the 1st is more like what I'm looking for.

If I remember correctly it works with any existing fence and just provideds a precise screw movement instead of over shooting the mark by trying to push the fence into place.

Actually now that I see how it works from the links you have I should be able to come up with something on my own. But thanks again at least now I have a good idea. :smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,526 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I saw the Rockler one, but did not mention since you said you wanted to purchase. I think Rockler intend you use one of these each side, and the price is for one.
Thanks Dave, I've been thinking about it and I'm pretty sure I can make one now that I know exactly what it looks like. I could probably do that with a small cheap 'C' clamp from Harbor Freight. Just drill and tap a hole in it for a wing screw and I got one. :smile:
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
7,222 Posts
Thanks Dave, I've been thinking about it and I'm pretty sure I can make one now that I know exactly what it looks like. I could probably do that with a small cheap 'C' clamp from Harbor Freight. Just drill and tap a hole in it for a wing screw and I got one. :smile:
I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.

If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,526 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.

If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.
Thanks I think using the connector nut sounds even better because it could be glued or fastened to a piece of wood and then clamped to the table.
I think the one I was originally looking for was made out of wood and also used threaded rod, but I don’t remember the details. It may have actually used the connector nut as you mentioned. I know the base was long and clamped from the back, I guess anything from the sides would work equally well.

I think only one is needed because router doesn’t necessarily need to be parallel with the table. so one end of the fence could be fixed and adjusted on the other end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.

If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.
Can you draw a picture for me:yes: I think I know what you are talking about but really suck at visualizing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,339 Posts
Dave Paine said:
I think Rockler intend you use one of these each side, and the price is for one.
I use one of these on my secondary table. Only one is necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,339 Posts
Very happy to be of service!
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
7,222 Posts
Can you draw a picture for me:yes: I think I know what you are talking about but really suck at visualizing
I was going to do a sketch then decided on a quick prototype.

The Jharris2 style is easy, but it will only push the fence forward. If you push too far, then you have to unscrew, reset the fence and start to push again.

An alternate design is to be able to push or pull the fence. This needs the threaded rod/screw to be able to swivel at the end.

I mentioned a "U" to hold the end of the threaded rod/screw and allow space for the swivel. A very quick and easy swivel. Not pretty but functional.

This is a piece of scrap from the shop. Imagine this is one side of the "U".

I drilled a 3/32in hole in a piece of threaded rod, an offcut from another project.

I use a small hitch pin in the hole and a washer behind the hitch pin.

Router_fence_jig_front_1619.jpg

On the back side I used two nuts tightened against each other. The nuts would be adjusted to minimize slop/backlash, but not too tight since we need the rod to swivel.

I am showing a connection nut, also called coupler nut, just to provide more area for clamping or gluing.

I added a lock nut at the end. This is a nut with a plastic collar. Showing a rachet wrench in lieu of a knob.

Router_fence_jig_rear_1620.jpg

I hope this helps you understand the suggestion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
I've surfed this thread and seen some goods and bads. Tomorrow I plan to design and build a small, accurate, cheap,
2-way "micro-adjuster". Stay tuned.
Jimmy
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top