Another option is to cut the old threshold so it doesn't extend past the wall sheething and install a 1x cedar board under the front of the aluminum threshold after caulking between the old and new thresholds. This would be a big cheat but would work in a pinch. If it was me, I would still remove, reframe the floor, and reinstall properly.

 

I'm with you

I would still remove, reframe the floor, and reinstall properly.

Because of the dropped center/curve in the sill this seems to be the best answer. The sill should rest on "something" flat and level to properly seal and be structurally strong. Repeated loads over time will pull the threshold from the sealing at the jamb.
Just throwin' this out there...can you reduce the curve by sanding down the sill at each ends near the jamb? Or can you make a Bondo fill to level out the sill? Sometimes it's easier to add than remove. Either way the door comes out. A bandsaw would be a great help in making a tapered shim and that's how I would do it. A little Bondo won't hurt either to bed the thing in.
A batch of thin set maybe? Maybe the sag in the sill and floor could be reduced from underneath by additional support from a beam across the joists jacked in to place? Some of the issue here is structural, another is fitment, and finally aesthetic or will it look good. Lot's of issues if you are not a carpenter. :yes: bill

 

If you open your picture on your laptop, can you resize (stretch/skew) the picture in that program? What program is it?

 

 

OMG I finally got it to work. Thanks

Finally the COPY & Paste kicked it. As you can see from the pic, they stuck an old piece of white sinage under the metal threshold in an attempt to fill the void. Then they wanted to shoot calking around the shim.

 

That thing is bowed like a ships hull!

I'll betcha if you hold a straight edge from jamb to jamb the center is 1/2" down....if not, I'll buy the beers! You'll need to wedge up the center until it's straight across and then make a tapered shim that runs the full length from jam to jamb and slip it underneath. Or a bunch of shorter ones. Then it's time for sealant. It should be as easy as posting photos here.....:laughing: bill
BTW it looks like the floor behind it ain't all that level either, but that's another thread.

 

Absolutely no doubt. It NEEDS to be redone. Like Bill said, if it isn't bowed down where the door seals against the threshold, I need to check my water because something is going on. There is no way the floor/old threshold is flat and level under there. Pull it out carefully. pull out the old threshold. Build up the floor joists where they cut them down so the original threshold was the right height. Leave room for at least a piece of 5/8" plywood. Lay down a layer of caulk closer to the outer edge of the threshold. Shim and secure. Trim inside. Reinstall screen door. Just my opinion.

 

You are a Funny Man

You actually got me to crack a laugh! I agree that the gap is deeper that 3/8" but I was hope to fill it with, perhaps, a Hilti epoxy of some other rigidly hardening filler. The original sill, installed by my grandfather when he built the house, is about 2" thick and very solid. As I now understand it, they were supposed to remove the original, pitched sill and replace it with a flat surface for the new metal sill to land on. They talked a very good story, the owner, but the workers barely spoke anything, as only one spoke English. Now I am stuck fixing it. And I am no carpenter, construction worker, true, but not a carpenter. I can read a level and shim till level and plumb--but I tend to stick with piping, large and small.
Here's another look.

 

Now that I'm on a roll

Here's a look at the other door. I suppose the original sill was pitched to keep the rain water and melting snow from running under the door and into the house. These guys just wanted to seal it with calk and be done with it. Another gap big enough for a snake to crawl through, if he so chose.

 

Cool deal on the pics!

Now,for some general rambling.Can't tell from pics if these drs have any roof cvring them.IOWs,are these drs on/under some kind of porch.

Theres a rather obscure and sometimes ambiguous code that can get sited evvvvvery once in awhile.It calls for a 4" min. "step" from finished exterior flr to,(this is where it gets touchy)some measure of interior FF(finish fl).But it goes back to the time when thresholds were non-existant(a sill and threshold are 2 different things).At least its based on "once upon a time",because outside historic work,most houses have some kind of raised threshold......which further confuses the issue when inspector is trying to explain why "homey's" deck project(new deck floor level with interior FF)fails because of this code.

You mentioned G-dads original install.......we still occasionally do wooden thresholds.I'd have to go check ours,but 7 degrees pops into my head.And I've pulled.....replaced.....messed with alot in old house world.They can in some instances outperform aluminum,just sayin.Further,you want to be careful(this don't apply to you but may help someone)when ordering a dr that has attatched "sidelites".......more often than not they'll come with seperate Alum thresholds.IOW's co dosen't take the time to have one common threshold.They just take multiples and halfazz screw them together.Same happens on window sills when dbls or tripples are put together.Well,that sure isn't the way your G-dad would have done it.These would be best served with a common sill.....any "hassle" thats now consider'd when even discussing this just wasn't in our building vocabulary before say 1970.

Replacement anything(windows,doors,siding,roofs)are engineer'd today to speed install,its THAT simple.The collatoral "damage" in this notion is very simply,uhhhhh.....cracks.And don't be fooled by some chickensh*t vinyl sliding pce that gets smooshed over to fill said crack.Thats just smoke N mirrors WRT loose fitment.

I personally can't say,even after your GREAT job of posting pics,haha.......whether or not I'd jerk the whole thing.One thought on that however is whether you'll do the work or if you want a MAJOR hassle goin through original contractor.And I won't comment on that,because just like replacement anything,dealing with contractors is very much on a case by case issue.But lets say you want it done right and that means you'll be doin the work,in that case I'd let the thing stay installed for awhile and see if any other issues come to lite.IOWs wouldn't be in a big hurry to rip it out.......choosing a wait N see approach.And if testing is on the menu,a garden hose is pretty effective.

A sloped sill has advantages over whats become the norm these days,in some cases.Its just that speed is the main design criteria now and that kinda dosn't work for doin sloped sills.Or a serious flashing job,waterproofing,or any engineering where mother nature is involved.The very best of luck,BW

 

I can't remember buying a pre-hung door that included a threshold. Once the jamb is installed and the door is hung, a threshold can be planned. It's at that time to work out all the problems with whatever type threshold is to be used. Whether it's a matter of shimming, or leveling with preparing the wood floor below if wood, or, cement if that's the floor. The installer should have worked out the problems. It's not like it wasn't visible.

I would lay a straightedge on both the sill and the edge of the threshold to see what's out. From the picture it looks like the wood or the edge of the threshold could be out, or both. Hard to tell, as pictures on a monitor aren't always a good perspective.

.

 

Jimbow,

I would at least turn the pictures and issue in to the Better Business Bureau and the contractors board and codes if applicable. I assume you paid to have it done right ( I left this loosely open because I run across individuals that are ONLY interested in bottom line (cost) and will tell me "skip whatever just fix it cheap " and that's my SIGN....to educate them what's proper install and finish a proper install bid.

It's this kind of shoddy/sloppy work that is causing "we" the good contractors/remodelers/handyman businesses to have to deal more with the govt than with the project itself. The govt officials add more rules and regulations and hoops to jump through and says we are supposed to "self police" others. It's like most rule and regs in place ... there not stated/in place for the ones who are doing things correctly but for the ones whom don't care about right and wrong or others.

Glad to see some good pics/evidence !!!

Have a Blessed day in Jesus,
Tim

 

Therma Tru doors have an adjustable threshold cap

Their exterior doors usually have an adjustable cap that seals the gap between the door bottom. The terms sill and threshold are used interchangeably by Therma Tru and others: http://www.bevelkingdoors.com/terminology.php Their installation instructions call for leveling the sill plate as well, then running 3 large beads of sealant. Seems to me this issue is extreme and well beyond the use of sealant. Somethins' not right with the subfloor as far as I can tell. Picture may distort somewhat, but I have a "trained" eye. :laughing: bill

 

Their exterior doors usually have an adjustable cap that seals the gap between the door bottom. The terms sill and threshold are used interchangeably by Therma Tru and others: http://www.bevelkingdoors.com/terminology.php

I take the "adjustable cap" to be just that, a height adjustor for the threshold. Threshold being an entity of its own, not an interchangeable term. I could be wrong.

I got "mentored" in door installation some time years ago in the last century, by a "doorman". That's all he did all his life, and I was very impressed with his craftsmanship. Now, maybe he could have been wrong, or I misunderstood his technique, but, thresholds get fitted to the jambs, but not fastened thereto.

.

 

My Therma Tru doors have an integral threshold

The Exterior doors come as a "unit" with the jambs and threshold all assembled as one unit. I have used these in my house in about 5 locations including a french door. The adjustable cap is part of a sub assembly in this case, some have it, some don't. This video may be helpful to the OP ...but in this case the threshold is a separate wood glue up of different sections, not like the Therma Tru door he has. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047031,00.html

another explanation : http://www.ehow.com/how_5373860_repair-door-sill-plate.html

Door threshold in need of a new sill. A door sill plate is at the bottom of every home's entryway. It helps seal off the door from the outside elements as well as provide some protection to the flooring or subfloor in some of the most trafficked areas in a home. Replacing a damaged or rotting door sill is a task most homeowners with a few tools and a moderate amount of carpentry experience can tackle in a few hours.

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Very enlightening, my friend

I would really rather not remove the installed pre-hung door. It does function and does not allow water to enter. It is more a matter of firming up the metal piece that connects to the jambs, because it flexs greatly when steped upon. I was thinking of a few well-placed shims to level it . . . and then inject an epoxy of some sort to harden solid beneath the metal piece (sill or threshold?) Or am I just jerking my selfsilly?

 

Hello Everyone I have just updated my account here. I welcome all of you.

 

Thanks everyone for the sharing the information with us.

Floor levelling

 

Jimbow
It sounds like you are not interested or willing to remove and reinstall the door correctly, but want suggestions on a sturdy fix. You mentioned an epoxy....if this a route you want to take start by shimming the door sill completely level and then add a solid bit of epoxy. I would recommend a real epoxy like hilti Re-500. If you fill the void it will harden stronger than the original sill and last forever. You will only have to figure out a way to cover it with something not bright red.

It sounds like you are a pipe fitter, you should be able to find some re-500 on the job site