[Pauley]

Can I poly over MDF?

 

[fire65]

LOL, sure you can do whatever you want. I think we will need more info.

 

[bzguy]

It's perfectly doable, just never seen anyone finish raw MDF with clearcoat.
Now you've really got us curious?

 

[DaveTTC]

Can I poly over MDF?

Yes and it does not look to bad either, great alternative. What have you got in mind?

 

[DaveTTC]

Yes and it does not look to bad either, great alternative. What have you got in mind?

you may want to use a sanding sealer on the edge, or at least use a mine grit to sand the edge

 

[Steve Neul]

It will work alright. I believe I would sand it first. The chemicals on the surface sometimes can have an adverse reaction with the finish. The edges are the hardest part. It drinks up finish like a sponge.

 

[Pauley]

LOL, sure you can do whatever you want. I think we will need more info.

Well, I built a combination outfeed table with an extension that lifts a table up to allow for a little extra assembly room. I always have coffee in my shop (helps me think) and afraid of what will happen if some spills on the MDF.

 

[Pauley]

you may want to use a sanding sealer on the edge, or at least use a mine grit to sand the edge

Well, I trimmed out the sides with some scrap pine I had laying around.

 

[Pauley]

Does it have to be an oil based poly, or can I use the water based. On one of the scraps I spilled a little coffee and it sort of blistered....maybe the coffee was to strong?

 

[jschaben]

I like finishing MDF with boiled linseed oil. Just keep applying it until nothing soaks in anymore. Usually give it about 15 minutes between coats. Once there is still liquid sitting on it after the 15 minute wait, I wipe off the excess. Cures very hard and slick as well as moisture resistant. Downside, it takes a week or so to completely cure but is usually usable, dry to touch, by the next day.
The thing I like about it is the finish is IN the material, not on top of it.:smile:

 

[Steve Neul]

Does it have to be an oil based poly, or can I use the water based. On one of the scraps I spilled a little coffee and it sort of blistered....maybe the coffee was to strong?

You could use the water based poly. If you are spraying it you might put the first couple of coats on thin so it doesn't fuzz up as much.

 

[DaveTTC]

poly works very good for shop application on MDF, we want pics when it is done

 

[SgtSteve]

You might have an easier time with a piece of pre-finished veneer on top. Plus it will give you a "real wood" look. Good luck.

 

[rrbrown]

Laminate the top with Formica or similar and your done.

 

[ryan50hrl]

Laminate the top with Formica or similar and your done.

That's what I'd do.....smooth, easy to clean.

 

[Smith Brother]

Laminate will allow you to use a razor blade to remove any dried glue/paints, etc. It doesn't dent easy either. GREAT INVENTION. IMO.

That's what I did on my saw extension, LOVE IT......

Dale in Indy

 

[DaveTTC]

I think I prefer MDF or timber for most applications, laminex is not as forgiving if you put a nail or screw thru it

 

[Bill White 2]

I build my shop jigs from MDF or the water resistant MDF called Extera (exterior grade), seal with Seal Coat shellac, sand lightly, then poly, paint, etc.
By the way, the Extera is VERY stable (and heavy).
Bill

 

[Pauley]

Well, here are some pictures of the utility cart I made for the shop. I based this on some plans I seen in ShopNotes Magazine, but added the lift extension table so the cart would fit my needs. I still haven't had time to poly the top, and I still need to make up some drawers for the front. Please keep in mind I am just an amateur and just about everything I make is with no plans....just off the top of my head. Anyhow, here are some photos...I keep this stored under my table saw, as you can see in the pictures, and it also works as an assembly table, although a small one, but it seems to work for me....

 

[jharris2]

Nicely done sir.

Looks very versatile.