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It is a point, not a knife. You mean just grab my (new) point with a pair of pliers and bend it back?
I can see where that could work, also where a blade might be better than a point (also where one of those little wheeled things might work well). This doesn't seem to work very well out of the box, though - at least on cross-grain marking.
Thanks
Thanks. Makes sense. I'll give it a try.Nooooo, do not bend the point back. What I do is slightly cant the block so the point drags at a slight angle. All you need to do is scribe a light line...nothing more that a faint scratch.
Exactly - and if you need it deeper make a few passes. The point should trails behind.Nooooo, do not bend the point back. What I do is slightly cant the block so the point drags at a slight angle. All you need to do is scribe a light line...nothing more that a faint scratch.
I don't agree with a blanket statement like that. Sounds like just a personal opinion, not fact. Whether a point or a knife edge, it's a choice. If that were true, it might have been stated that way in the link provided below, but it wasn't.The point should not be a point, rather a knife edge. There are 2 ways to sharpen it to a knife edge, remove all the material from only one side like the Japanese marking knives OR sharpen both side like a typical knife.
Stating that a point will leave a ragged edge may be from improper use. All that's necessary is a faint line.A "pointed" point will leave a ragged line unless the material is homogeneous, like plastic. If there is grain, like wood, it will tear. Here's a rather complete article on the use and sharpening of the gauge:
http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/marking-gauge.html
If it tears the fibers, you're pressing too hard.Suggestion to the OP:
Take a sharp nail, hold it at an angle and drag it across the the grain of the wood. It will tear the fibers.
Trying to use my fancy English marking gauge, but just making an ugly torn-up line - not like in the pictures and videos.
View attachment 82621
What am I doing wrong?