It is a point, not a knife. You mean just grab my (new) point with a pair of pliers and bend it back?
I can see where that could work, also where a blade might be better than a point (also where one of those little wheeled things might work well). This doesn't seem to work very well out of the box, though - at least on cross-grain marking.
Exactly - and if you need it deeper make a few passes. The point should trails behind.Nooooo, do not bend the point back. What I do is slightly cant the block so the point drags at a slight angle. All you need to do is scribe a light line...nothing more that a faint scratch.
I don't agree with a blanket statement like that. Sounds like just a personal opinion, not fact. Whether a point or a knife edge, it's a choice. If that were true, it might have been stated that way in the link provided below, but it wasn't.The point should not be a point, rather a knife edge. There are 2 ways to sharpen it to a knife edge, remove all the material from only one side like the Japanese marking knives OR sharpen both side like a typical knife.
Stating that a point will leave a ragged edge may be from improper use. All that's necessary is a faint line.A "pointed" point will leave a ragged line unless the material is homogeneous, like plastic. If there is grain, like wood, it will tear. Here's a rather complete article on the use and sharpening of the gauge: