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Discussion Starter #1
I need to make or buy doors and drawer fronts for a bathroom vanity. The 2 doors are about 14"w x 25"h, and the 3 drawers are 10.5" w x 6.5" h. Without getting complicated, I'm thinking of using 3/4 x 2" maple for the four outside members and 1/2 ply inside. I can cut slots either with a router or my table saw, perfer the table saw though. So the real question comes down to this.....can I get away with pocket screwing it together (skipping making a real joint) and be done with it in a few days? I know a joint is prefered, but I need to be done with this project. Or is it time to bite the bullet and get cutters for this?
 

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I need to make or buy doors and drawer fronts for a bathroom vanity. The 2 doors are about 14"w x 25"h, and the 3 drawers are 10.5" w x 6.5" h. Without getting complicated, I'm thinking of using 3/4 x 2" maple for the four outside members and 1/2 ply inside. I can cut slots either with a router or my table saw, perfer the table saw though. So the real question comes down to this.....can I get away with pocket screwing it together (skipping making a real joint) and be done with it in a few days? I know a joint is prefered, but I need to be done with this project. Or is it time to bite the bullet and get cutters for this?
You could just as easily make half lap joints on the doors. The drawer fronts are a bit small to do a R&S, IMO.




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You don't need new cutters. You could use your TS or router and make tongue and groove rails and stiles and make shaker style doors by using the 1/4 plywood panels.

The pocket holes will work but will be visible on the inside of the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm going to make a test joint T & G on the table saw. If that goes well...........

What is a R & S ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
1/4" t n g

I can assume that making the tongue and groove match the ply thickness, thus being able to put grooves the total distance on verts? I will pick up some 1/4 and measure it and add about .010" clearance. I read somewhere where you do not glue the ply all around, but on one side only....due to expansion? Does that apply in San Diego climate.....inside?
 

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When using plywood, you don't need to worry much about movement. Plywood is inherently stable. For smaller doors, I'd glue the panel in. I know others wont glue, but I would.
 

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I can assume that making the tongue and groove match the ply thickness, thus being able to put grooves the total distance on verts? I will pick up some 1/4 and measure it and add about .010" clearance. I read somewhere where you do not glue the ply all around, but on one side only....due to expansion? Does that apply in San Diego climate.....inside?
I always make my panels about 1/8th to 1/4 narrower than the rail length. Run dados down the edges, put tenons on the rails and glue it up. Fits all together perfectly as log as your careful. Just working on some window seats, shaker style panels just like my kitchen cabinets with VC Oak ply for the panels. Looks great and goes together fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well, I started the two doors, and glued one of themlast night. But I forgot to put the notch(bevel) on the rails before assembly. I was planning on having a notched reveal instead of a smooth joint line, but now I don't think I can do that....unless I put a saw line there instead of a 45 deg.

edit: Oh fuggetit. I just checked out the door I assembled and it fits through the opening of the cabinet. I messed up the width. Starting all over.
 
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