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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A little more details … i got this perfect pattern screwdriver off ebay, it’s had a hard life. Cleaning up the shank will be easy … i want to make new wood inserts or cheeks. I want to get a mold of the good side, split it down the middle, and use it as a gauge while i shape the new inserts. So my mold / template should be somewhat rigid, but it doesn’t have to be particularly strong or long lasting.
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Eddie - not sure I'm following you. I make Silicone Rubber Molds to reproduce an item in quantity with casting resin.
If you have only this one screwdriver, and want to make new wood parts for it, I would get the wood, cut it to "roughly" fit the metal and screw the two pieces together. Then, use whatever tools you like to "handcraft" the finished product. Sort of like knife scales on a knife blade.
Expand a bit more please.
 

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I used a "contour gauge" just this afternoon to copy a profile.
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If you don't have one, just use a piece of cardboard and slowly cut away at the profile until you get what you like.
 

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LOL - that's funny right there.
After you cut the rivets off, you will have a better understanding of what's going on.
I'm thinking you will find that the butt end of the wood is trimmed down a bit and slips under the butt cap.
This is called Craftsmanship - hand tools and the human mind to figure it out. But you won't know for sure until you get the rivets cut off.
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I want to have a template that follows this curve. Goin* the other way, i can follow the metal tang.

View attachment 445165
You do NOT need need a mold, you need a template!
A mold would be used to pour a plastic resin into, not to make a wood handle. Wood doesn't pour very well.
I've made a bunch of templates to duplicate clay models from one side to the other side for symmetry.
There are two basic ways to make an accurate template:
Use a form duplicator with many small rods that adjust to shape of the surface, draw the curve on your template stock, then cut it out on the bandsaw.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/RAK-Ultimate-Template-Adjustable-Measures/dp/B06Y63VZ3X

The other way which I've used often is tracing the shape with a pencil compass:
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Holding the compass point at 90 degrees to the surface will get you real close to the duplicate shape.
Then cut the shape from the template and refit it to make a closer fit. Each time you'll get it closer to the original.

I would get the wood shape to the blue line before making the top curve.
 

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@John Smith_inFL
I know this has been discussed, but i’m too … something … to go searching. I want to make a mold of a screwdriver handle. What products should i buy?
I would get yourself a small piece of 1/4" or 1/2" MDF and scribe or trace the pattern. Rough cut with a jigsaw, bandsaw, or whatever close to the line. Use a pattern makers rasp and file it to a perfect fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here’s what i’m going to do. I have some 5-6 mm ply going to cut 3 templates at the rivets. That’s an easy place to align to all during the process.
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Then …
1 remove the existing wood
2 cut rectangular and flat blanks. Might use a piece of cherry i have.
3 cut the end bevels, get the blanks to fit well
4 mark and drill the rivet holes by holding one blank in place at a time, mark the locations from the back side, drill clearance holes on the drill press
5 secure the blanks in place with a couple of spots of epoxy. Not a full coverage smear
6 shape to fit the templates,
7 countersink the holes, install rivets
8 add a coat of blo
9 straighten the blade, grind the tip
10 clean up & polish the metal
11 post pictures here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The wood has an asymmetrical curve, seems to be highest at the back rivet. It’s not a big deal, but I would like to come close to the original shape.

Bent shaft? What makes you think that?
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Here’s what i’m going to do. I have some 5-6 mm ply going to cut 3 templates at the rivets. That’s an easy place to align to all during the process.
View attachment 445178
Then …
1 remove the existing wood
2 cut rectangular and flat blanks. Might use a piece of cherry i have.
3 cut the end bevels, get the blanks to fit well
4 mark and drill the rivet holes by holding one blank in place at a time, mark the locations from the back side, drill clearance holes on the drill press
5 secure the blanks in place with a couple of spots of epoxy. Not a full coverage smear
6 shape to fit the templates,
7 countersink the holes, install rivets
8 add a coat of blo
9 straighten the blade, grind the tip
10 clean up & polish the metal
11 post pictures here.
You might consider doing steps 9 and 10 prior to steps 7 and 8
 

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My admiration for wanting to freshen an old turn screw (as Grandad called those) , but I wouldn't mess with it at all New Chinesium replicas are made and available for cheaper than the originals go for collector's items. and probably better steel too. Maybe dress the end with a slip stone a bit if you want to use it. I picked up a brand new set of four for around $12.00 new perhaps 10 years ago. I aged the smaller two for inclusion with a cased "horse and wagon" socket set. The sockets were made to turn square nuts and square headed bolts with a brace. The paper work was still with the cased set. Very unusual set.
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