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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to make a dining room table with the top being like a cutting board with pieces running length way of the table. I would guess size to be 3'x5' ball park. My plan seems like it would work but wanted to run it by you all. Basically just rip my wood, glue and clamp it. I then plan to use a brand new planer I plan to buy around $500 read good reviews about a Dewalt. It only can plane 13" so I'd have three pieces to glue and clamp together and then finish sand any differences out. Router the edges, put legs on and call it done with some stain. Is this possible? Any suggestions on how to do this better? Or is any ideas at all? Thanks!
 

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i would add one more step between the ripping of wood and gluing - jointing or planing the faces that will be glued. just to ensure that the surface doesn't have any imperfections from the table saw, before glue up. how thick is this top?

welcome to the forum, Jay!
 

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I would consider 2in to be thick. :icon_smile:

I have the DeWalt 735 planer. I am one of the few who owners who are unable to eliminate snipe.

If your future machine exhibits snipe, then cut your stock 6in longer than desired so you can cut off the snipe portions at each end.

You do not state the types of clamps. Clamping the final 3ft wide assembly will need attention to apply even pressure. Very easy to warp.

I would purchase a couple of these clamps.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000321/1858/WoodRiver-Clamping-System.aspx

I would also use dowels for alignment. The closer you get the seams to be aligned, the less you will be sanding.

Also consider some way to clamp to a straight edge so you do not get end-to-end curving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi,

Thanks for the info! Those clamps look like they would be amazing for helping apply even pressure. I will plan on having it be longer if it does have siping. And dowels sound like that would help a lot. Any suggestions on how often and how deep? Thanks!
 

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Hi,

Thanks for the info! Those clamps look like they would be amazing for helping apply even pressure. I will plan on having it be longer if it does have siping. And dowels sound like that would help a lot. Any suggestions on how often and how deep? Thanks!
Purchased dowels are 1 1/2in if I recall, so 3/4in in each board.

The number of dowels depends on how many clamps and how straight the boards look in a dry fit.

I would do a test dry fit with clamps to see how well things line up.

If I were doing this, I would have at least one dowel to prevent the boards from moving side to side as they are clamped.

Easy to get a clamp to align the boards at the ends.
 
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