Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
this is my low $$$ router table. i don't have the need for a big permanent router table, though i seem to use this one more and more.



all routers have mounting nuts in the base. get some bolts, measure the distance between them and the center of the bit.



layout your bolt holes and drill some holes. counter sink the bolt and washer heads. i cut the bit hole base on the largest bit i normally use.



that's it. kiss (keep it simple stupid) i did add a few screw holes to fasten it to my table.



i've also used it on the job site or just outside to minimize mdf dust in the shop

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
cheap a$$ circle jig

i made these speaker inclosures for the 58 chevy truck in my avatar a while back.
here's how to cut speaker rings on my cheap a$$ router table;

i see a lot of people using a jigsaw to cut rings and do a poor job at it. yes you can use a jigsaw. you realy need a router to round over. my 1978 router burned up, i bought this one at home depot for $49. i don't like plunge router, never did, never had a need for one.

i'll show you how to make this speaker ring. these are for my kick panels.



when i do my layout, i draw everything full scale on the mdf. i drill a 1/8" hole in the center of each ring. then i drill 1/4" holes where i want to route a groove. there are 2 sets of rings on this board. the top ring and the bottom ring. i'm doing a reccessed ring for the speaker.
first you want to cut the outside of the ring and then the inside of the ring. if you reverse the order and cut the inside first, then you have no pivot to cut the outside. place the outside hole over the 1/4" spiral bit and use a screw thru the center hole to screw it down the the table.



cut to the marks



my photo of cutting the inside did work, so i move on. place the big ring on the outer hole, screw down the center and cut to the mark.



then place the inside hole over the bit and cut 90% around the hole.



you can cut all the way, but you risk digging in with the router bit. tape the cutout securely in place



and then finish the cut



peal the tape and you have this



i used a bandsaw to finish the arc connecting the 2 rings, then sanded all the edges smooth to get rid of machine marks and did a test fit



then i used a 3/8" roundover bit to dress the inside radius and 1/4" roundover bit to do the outside radius, raising the bit to get a 1/8" rabbit for stapling the cloth on.



buy a good cabide spiral cut bit. it will pay you back in labor savings. i had a tool steel straight cut bit and had to make 3 passes to cut each ring. these spiral cut bits are sweet!

yes, there are 10 ways to cut rings. this is how i do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
and not that this has anything to do with wood working...
these are the finished kick panel speakers for my truck

finished frame work



covered in fabric



first layer of fiberglass



a few more layers of glass, some body filler, wrapped in vinyl and installed in my truck



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
i will be using this same jig to cut a thein baffle for my shop vac dust collection system
i'll post pics when i do
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,892 Posts
If I had the room, being as I seem to attract routers, from garage sales! I would make a simple table, and have a few routers in it. Each with a different radius roundover bit. It would be a time saver. Sort of like having 3 or more bench grinders, with different wheels on it. I have a single pedestal, with 3 grinders on it, and am thinking of adding a 4th that I came across.

I have a router table in my ext table on my ts, which is nice to use, but a simple board with a router bolted to it works also. It would sure beat the crappy small metal Craftsman "router table" a friend gave me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
i used some 5 1/4'' arc audio components, 4 sets; kicks and doors
here are the door panels and sub enclosure using this same low buck router table







and a shop vac converted into thein baffle, mice had destroyed the blue shop vac.
i cut off the motor and bolted the thein baffle to the quick release top section.
the bottom picture shows shop vac and thein baffle after cleaning up under my table saw
even this small baffle cuts shop vac filter clean out to a minimum





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
sub/amp enclosure for behind the seat of my truck
cut the speaker ring with low buck router table
the rest is just me showing off :D

base


fiberglassed: battery, sub, console and 2 amps behind driver


painted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
this is my low $$$ router table. i don't have the need for a big permanent router table, though i seem to use this one more and more.



all routers have mounting nuts in the base. get some bolts, measure the distance between them and the center of the bit.



layout your bolt holes and drill some holes. counter sink the bolt and washer heads. i cut the bit hole base on the largest bit i normally use.



that's it. kiss (keep it simple stupid) i did add a few screw holes to fasten it to my table.



i've also used it on the job site or just outside to minimize mdf dust in the shop


Given that the KISS router table is unsupported on one end, do you have a problem with sagging of flexing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
not really, if you look at the top pick the router is very close to the workbench. i did have to bullnose the ends of 4 foot 5/4 stair tread this summer and needed to put a stiff leg under the far end. i just cut a 1x2 to length and stuck it in next to the router. typically this is not a problem, but with the 4' length i was using 3/4 melamine on the back side of the workbench and needed to prop it up flat to the melamine support
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
since this thread popped up... i had to replace the low $$ router table due to the amount of screw holes i had in it from making all those speaker rings. with some slights modifications. :grin:

first poor planning had the router switch in a bad location and there was less room for wrench swing on bit changes. 1st mod was to rotate the router for better switch access and wrench swing

next mod was for dust collection with a shop vac. you can see the added shop vac port auxiliary fence on top. another dust port on a box screwed to the bottom of the table. it's either or, not both as i use a single port shop vac, though i could use 2 shop vacs. it has greatly improved the dust collection (seeing as i had none previously)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
last mod was a router lift for the low $$ router table, well sort of :grin:

i had never noticed this 5mm hex end on the router height adjustment before
i drilled a corresponding hole in the router table to match the hole in the router
drop the 5mm nut driver in the hole and turn

walla, i have a router lift on the low $$ router table
well sort of :vs_cool:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
I recently needed a new router and finally decided on the Triton 3.25hp. I chose it for several reasons but one is that it came with its own thru table router lift. I also ordered Kregs router table insert designed for the Triton routers and with a piece of 3/4" melanine from a big box store I had a pretty darn nice router table for about what some router lifts alone cost.
Ogre I really like your speaker boxes and will probably use your process for future projects. How well did your thien baffle work for you? Any problems with clogging? Mine doesnt seem to like planer or jointer chips much and I have to keep an eye on it so it doesnt clog up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
i rarely use my thien baffle, chips probably clog the hose more than the thien
thanks, built my speakers 9 years ago with the truk in my avatar
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top