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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I am new to the forum and pretty inexperienced with woodworking. I have a 14x18 shed in the backyard that I would like to turn into a woodshop. The first thing I would like to do is buy a table saw so I can start completing some big projects in my home.....all the kitchen cabinets, all the trim, bathroom cabinets, stairs, and railings.

After reading a bunch of reviews, I went to Home Depot and purchased a Rigid R4512. Long story short, the cast iron wasnt flat on one side and the stamped steel extensions were twisted. I decided I would rather purchase a quality product and returned the saw to the store.

I read the old unisaws are very good. Ive located one in the area for $1300 with some extras. Http://lasalle.craigslist.org/tls/4050162029.html

I also am not opposed to spending much less. This delta contractor saw is still available for $350 http://quadcities.craigslist.org/tls/4072059156.html

I would also be willing to buy a new saw.

Taking into account my relative inexperience, but need to renovate the majority of my home, what kind of saw should I be looking at? Quality is the number one factor in the purchase.

Cheers
 

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I have had great luck with my Bosch 4100 with the gravity rise base. Very portable and very powerful. I have never stalled it even cutting through 2" thick oak and walnut. Would eventually like a large contractor saw with a steel table but my current space is limited. I have a Rockler dust collector that I attach on the back port and it works very good. I like the portability of this unit and the Bosch quality. I have done some large projects with this and it performed very nice.
 

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I'd recommend a steel city saw with a granite top....perfectly flat, never going to warp or bend, and I've had excellent results with mine. And...you can have a brand new saw with a riving knife for under 1000...
 

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It's worth noting that a 3hp saw will require 220v operation. You didn't mention whether your shop has 220v. A true 2hp motor is better off with 220v, but will run with a sufficient 110v circuit. I'd suggest reading this entire article about table saws, starting here.

The Unisaw is a really nice saw, but $1300 seems a little steep to me. $1350 buys a brand new Grizzly G1023RL with a riving knife and warranty. I'd think $1000-$1100 would be about my top dollar....YMMV.

The Delta contractor saw looks to be a decent deal @ $350. The rust should clean up pretty nicely, but it makes for a decent bartering point. I'd offer $275-$300, but would consider giving full price if it runs well and you love it.

Alignment and blade selection are key to good performance on any saw.
 

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I think the Unisaw is over priced. Worth maybe $800, and that's to someone who wants a Unifence, and not a Biesemeyer. Having used both fences, I like the Biesemeyer a lot more than the Unifence.
The Delta contractor saw is worth the money, again, if you want a Unifence.
Do you have 220 service for the saw?

If you mention what area you live, someone might have a saw for sale, or know of one.

If you were in my area, I would offer an old Unisaw that needs some work.
 

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Get another 4512, just check the table at the store. It's a lot of saw for the money and my love for mine knows no bounds. There are tons of others who feel the same way. The steel wings should just be replaced - make some melamine or mdf or formica ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have 220 in the shop if I didnt pull it out when I redid all my circuits. It would be no problem to put it back in if its gone. I live in northern Illinois.

The guy with the unisaw is calling me tonight about it. Im concerned because it says its already taken apart ready to move. If I can get him down in price a few hundred over the phone, I may go take a look at it.

With that delta contractor saw with unifence, what kind of things should I look for if I go to check it out?

I really like that grizzly 1023 with the router table feature. Are these ready to go from day one, or are there upgrades that need to be made?

Thanks again
 

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Old Methane Gas Cloud
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Sorry if I'm late to the party.

The UniSaw is just like mine. A really great saw. Even better it is a right tilting model. The right tilt keeps the fence ruler accuracy regardless of which blade is used. Especially nice when doing dadoes. The down side is that bevel cuts can be an issue if your technique is poor. For narrow bevel cuts, the fence can be moved to the left of the blade. Which brings up a point, where is the fence? I didn't notice one. This could be a huge bargaining chip in your favor.

If it were me, I would skip on the contractor model. The saw with that much rust says that it wasn't taken care of. If you actually go to look at the contractor model, smell the motor before it is turned on. The motor should not smell of smoke, caramel or other such things indicating serious overloads.

I've said this before, almost every woodworker wants to get a cabinet saw. The question is, how many table saws do you want to buy in your lifetime?

The price for the UniSaw is not too bad. About 8 years ago I paid $1800 for mine with a Biesemeyer fence system (51"). I think that the current model UniSaw is in the $2600 to $2800 range today AND only a left tilt model.

The contractor saw has a UniFence. I'm not a real fan of the UniFence. Some people love them but I prefer the Biesemeyer.
 

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I hear what your saying about the ruler accuracy of right tilt models, but the safety advantages of a left tilt far outweigh that in my opinion.
 

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I hear what your saying about the ruler accuracy of right tilt models, but the safety advantages of a left tilt far outweigh that in my opinion.
I've never had a left tilt saw, and never saw a problem moving the fence to the other side of the blade, for the occasional bevel cut.
 

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I have 220 in the shop... i

I really like that grizzly 1023 with the router table feature. Are these ready to go from day one, or are there upgrades that need to be made?

Thanks again
Me too!
Grizzly 1023RLW. I use it every day. and I just repositioned the fence rails so I can rip up to almost 37 inches in width. I to am fixing to build some cabinets for our house. I don't have room for the wide rails.

Good luck in your search for a saw.
Mike
 

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...I really like that grizzly 1023 with the router table feature. Are these ready to go from day one, or are there upgrades that need to be made?

Thanks again
There's a few hours of assembly....switch, wings, hand wheels, fence, blade guard, etc....you'll need to check the alignment too. You'll want a decent blade for it, and maybe a mobile base. Upgrades would be a matter of opinion....the fence is pretty nice, but you might want a better miter gauge eventually, and/or you can build a crosscut sled.

My similar Shop Fox came on a pallet like this (without the handwheels attached though).
 

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I got a lot of great performance out of my vintage 1983 Jet Contractor Saw. Not a cabinet saw, but still heavy duty 1.5 HP - 110/220 operation. Now that I've got a Cabinet Unisaw, I'm actually close to selling it.
 

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Are these ready to go from day one, or are there upgrades that need to be made?
Mine looked like this when I removed the carton. You have to assemble the wings, install the handwheels and the fence rails.

Don't forget to buy a mobile base. You can thank me later. :)

Mike
 

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Hi,
I am new to the forum and pretty inexperienced with woodworking. I have a 14x18 shed in the backyard that I would like to turn into a woodshop. The first thing I would like to do is buy a table saw so I can start completing some big projects in my home.....all the kitchen cabinets, all the trim, bathroom cabinets, stairs, and railings.

nothing like jumping in with both feet!

After reading a bunch of reviews, I went to Home Depot and purchased a Rigid R4512. Long story short, the cast iron wasnt flat on one side and the stamped steel extensions were twisted. I decided I would rather purchase a quality product and returned the saw to the store.

I read the old unisaws are very good. Ive located one in the area for $1300 with some extras. Http://lasalle.craigslist.org/tls/4050162029.html

I also am not opposed to spending much less. This delta contractor saw is still available for $350 http://quadcities.craigslist.org/tls/4072059156.html

the problem with those deltas is that they are right tilt saws. there's a reason almost all new TSs have riving knives and are left tilt and that reason is safety.

I would also be willing to buy a new saw.

Taking into account my relative inexperience, but need to renovate the majority of my home, what kind of saw should I be looking at? Quality is the number one factor in the purchase.

Cheers
too bad you couldn't get a 4512. perhaps the griz 0715 would be a good option. 2 hp motor and the fence that was on the one i saw in muncy was big, beefy and first rate. if timing isn't an issue, CL is a great way to find good values, but patience may be required.
 

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Woodduck, you are in the same place I was a week ago. I want to get in to woodworking and went to HD to look at Ridgid. After looking at the Ridgid I switched to the Bosch 4100. I liked the size but wanted something a more substantial. I then looked at the Steel City. I was dead set on that one and went to go buy it at a local dealer. When I got there I was treated like I crap because I didn't know about table saw. I walked right out. I found a dealer that had a Laguna but then read about the Grizzly. I called them a few days ago to speak to a tech about the 690 and 1023. I must have woke the guy up and he must have been sleeping on the wrong side of the bed. This guy was very rude and short. He actually sighed after asked questions. I was pissed and started looking elsewhere. After a lot of reading, I decided to give them another chance. I called Grizzly this morning and spoke to a really nice and informative tech. I could tell this guy liked his job. He sold me on Grizzly but now I have to pick the saw. I wanted the 690 and still do but the 1023 with router table will probably win out.

It may be more than I need but I dont have to worry about out growing it.
 

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Old Methane Gas Cloud
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I hear what your saying about the ruler accuracy of right tilt models, but the safety advantages of a left tilt far outweigh that in my opinion.
I don't know what "safety advantages" you speak of.

Just last week I did a second set of narrow width bevel cuts over the last 8 or so years.

I made about 10 practice cuts with the blade below the table and power off. Being right handed and using the saw in a left handed mode requires a little practice to be safe.

Having to practice 10 minutes once every 8 years is far better than having to adjust the fence ruler with every blade change.
 
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