[dvalery20]

I'm coming up on a couple of projects where I have been requested to make cabinet doors with glass instead of a raised panel, I have never done this but can't imagine it being very difficult, I'm looking to make the doors using half lap joints with an 1/8" rabbit groove where the glass will be going? does anyone have any better suggestions for this since I am new to glass? thanks

- Dan

 

[cabinetman]

I'm coming up on a couple of projects where I have been requested to make cabinet doors with glass instead of a raised panel, I have never done this but can't imagine it being very difficult, I'm looking to make the doors using half lap joints with an 1/8" rabbit groove where the glass will be going? does anyone have any better suggestions for this since I am new to glass? thanks

- Dan

If you are using 1/8" glass (double strength) an 1/8" deep by 1/4" wide rabbet works very well. You could just use glass retainer clips. If you silicone the glass in, it could be a PITA to replace if necessary.

.

 

[nmacdonald]

The door in my kitchen are siliconed with retainer clip


Looks to be1/4" rabbet 1/4" deep

 

[Oneal-Woodworking]

I'm coming up on a couple of projects where I have been requested to make cabinet doors with glass instead of a raised panel, I have never done this but can't imagine it being very difficult, I'm looking to make the doors using half lap joints with an 1/8" rabbit groove where the glass will be going? does anyone have any better suggestions for this since I am new to glass? thanks

- Dan

You want some of this:

WAY better than the little metal stake thingies... (or silicone) :yes:

For a traditional type cove and bead profile door - You would run the pieces like normal and then cut the groove for the rubber moulding afterwards... You dont CUT the groove where the crossrails meet the styles - You want to stop short of that... In this picture - The blackened areas are what you would remove in the panel portion of the door stock only:

It is an 1/8th inch groove about 1/4 deep...

This stuff allows glass to easily replaced in future IF needed. Only need an 1/8th inch slot cutter do this... (or an 1/8th inch kerf sawblade if doors have not been 'assembled' yet) :yes:

 

[dvalery20]

You want some of this:

WAY better than the little metal stake thingies... (or silicone) :yes:

For a traditional type cove and bead profile door - You would run the pieces like normal and then cut the groove for the rubber moulding afterwards... You dont CUT the groove where the crossrails meet the styles - You want to stop short of that... In this picture - The blackened areas are what you would remove in the panel portion of the door stock only:

It is an 1/8th inch groove about 1/4 deep...

This stuff allows glass to easily replaced in future IF needed. Only need an 1/8th inch slot cutter do this... (or an 1/8th inch kerf sawblade if doors have not been 'assembled' yet) :yes:

where can I find these?

 

[Oneal-Woodworking]

ask cabinetman...

he KNOWS everything... (LOL!)

:smile:

 

[Steve Neul]

A half lap joint would be good and then rabbet the groove for the glass after it has been assembled and rough sanded. Another method would be to use a tongue and groove frame or use a cabinet door coping and sticking set and leave the panel out when you assemble the door. Then rabbet the back side out for the glass. I like to use a chair cane spline for glass stop on cabinet doors. Silicone holds really well but I don't thing it looks very good.