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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was playing around with the CNC plasma cutter at work one night after seeing the latest PSI catalog. I cut this...

Metal Ring Silver Titanium ring Finger


Then I turned a holder for it and added magnets.


Auto part Disc brake Wheel Automotive wheel system Brake




Door handle


This was my prototype... still trying to get some kind of image on the front, I suck at wood burning. Add a nice alcohol proof poly and laquer the insert so it wont rust. It is made from oak. The magnets will be inset the next time i make one..and the steel will probably be painted black. Nice storage place for a bottle opener.

Any critisms welcome.
 

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I love the idea. :thumbsup:

Cut another one, send it to me and I will turn a top for it and send it back. I think more of a knob shape may help in applying the fulcrum to remove the bottle top easier.
 

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Turning Wood Into Art
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You know that 1st shape could double as a coaster

Interesting concept.

Looking forward to see what Dave turns up - pardon the pun :)
 

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First attempt at bottle opener

I made my first bottle opener using one of the metal blanks Philip was kind enough to send my way.

A work in progress. Picture taken after first coat of finish.

Going for a simple design. I love the grain in this piece of cherry and did not want to turn away any more wood than necessary.

The cove is intended to be gripped by thumb and fingers with the palm covering the top.

I will update when I have completed the coats of finish and then show the underside.

A fun little project.

Wood
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Dave Paine said:
I made my first bottle opener using one of the metal blanks Philip was kind enough to send my way. A work in progress. Picture taken after first coat of finish. Going for a simple design. I love the grain in this piece of cherry and did not want to turn away any more wood than necessary. The cove is intended to be gripped by thumb and fingers with the palm covering the top. I will update when I have completed the coats of finish and then show the underside. A fun little project.
Sweet. Looks like you 2 have a little business venture going on. I'll take one shipped if the price is right.... :^)

Mark
 

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Sweet. Looks like you 2 have a little business venture going on. I'll take one shipped if the price is right.... :^)
No business venture. I offered to turn one for Philip and was pleasantly surprised that he sent me 5 of the metal blanks.

Philip gets first refusal of this one, but happy to have an excuse to make another one.

Price would be the cost of shipping. Not sure what the wood will be, so I hope you are flexible.
 

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Dave Paine said:
No business venture. I offered to turn one for Philip and was pleasantly surprised that he sent me 5 of the metal blanks. Philip gets first refusal of this one, but happy to have an excuse to make another one. Price would be the cost of shipping. Not sure what the wood will be, so I hope you are flexible.
Though I was kind of joking, I'd gladly pay you shipping for one. I love the idea of something made from wood to open my beer er soda bottles. All I ask is that the item be signed or otherwise marked as made by. Let me know shipped to 65712. Thanks again.

Mark
 

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Next opener

I am getting to fine tune how to make these.

This is the bottom view with the opener screwed in place. The shape is close to an isosceles trapezoid.

Wood Smile Circle Illustration Button


The hole for the opener.

My latest process. First drill the 1 3/4in dia x 3/16in deep hole on the bottom of the blank. I did this on the lathe, but could also be done on the drill press.

I then draw the outline of the hole and mark the two screw holes.

I am using 1in dia hole with 2 @ 3/8in dia smaller holes for the "ears". I drill the 3/8in dia holes first. This has to be on the drill press since not centred. All are about 1/2in deep.

I then go back to the lathe and drill the 1in dia mail hole.

For my first one I made the "ears" with 1/4in chisel. The two extra holes is faster and leaves a smoother inside, but they have to be cut first. I thought about this on the first opener, but it was after I had cut the 1in dia hole.

Wood Lid Button Circle Smile


For this one I decided to have my wife print a little button.

Excuse the mis-spelling of "soda". :laughing:

Small crack in the blank which I had to fill with CA glue, just under the lower "e".

Bottle cap Wood


I was not able to find a piece of cherry with the same grain as the first one. This looks good if you do not have the other one on the table for comparison.

Wood


The pictures are with the opener buffed but no finish has been applied.

Burb, first refusal goes to you. What do you think?

Do you want to apply the finish or have me apply the finish. Not a problem to apply the finish, but will take a few days to allow curing between coats.
 

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They look great Dave. Love the buttons. Are the china? The black ring looks so perfect and even.

Don't forget to sign them. That is often what I leave out. Of you had not said I would have thought both pics were of the same one.

Did you ever try Shellawax friction finish. I imagine that would work great for something like this.
 

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They look great Dave. Love the buttons. Are the china? The black ring looks so perfect and even.

Don't forget to sign them. That is often what I leave out. Of you had not said I would have thought both pics were of the same one.

Did you ever try Shellawax friction finish. I imagine that would work great for something like this.
The button is white plastic with a special coating which absorbs sublimating inks. A special inkjet formulation. When heated to high temperature the ink goes from solid to vapour - hence it sublimates - changes state from solid to gas without going through the liquid phase.

The special coating absorbs the vapourised ink. Once cool it is permanent.

The white area has no ink.

My wife does not have blank this size. I had her print a thick black line around the diameter of my drill bit - 1 3/4in (44.5mm). I then sanded down to the black line on my disc sander, and finished sizing with hand sander, trying to keep the black line even. I think I got this pretty close.

I may be challenged where to sign. I also do not normally sign my projects.

Shellawax does look good. I am not sure how long it lasts though.
 

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I believe that shellawax is meant to be harder wearing than many other finishes and for this reason recommended for pens amongst other things. It reaches it best durability after about 2 weeks I think.

Maybe you have to remove the opener and sign in the base of the hole ;)
 

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Dave Paine said:
Burb, first refusal goes to you. What do you think? Do you want to apply the finish or have me apply the finish. Not a problem to apply the finish, but will take a few days to allow curing between coats.
Dave, that's truly AWESOME. I'll shoot you a PM
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I love the disc on that! One thing though flip the insert over and it will look better. Plasma cutters seem to mangle the one side of a piece but not the other when hitting a sharp turn or close radius.

Cleaning them was a chore too...Burned a 60 grit flap disc cleaning 10 of them....I really have to clean up the program.
 

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One thing though flip the insert over and it will look better. Plasma cutters seem to mangle the one side of a piece but not the other when hitting a sharp turn or close radius.
This is the better side. I also drilled countersink holes to match the countersink screw heads, so I cannot flip the insert on this one or yours.

I feel the inserts have metallic character analogous to the wood. :thumbsup:
 
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