Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

4,801 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Decided to do a step by step for a lidded box with an added bonus of an inlayed lid. Remember that this is just how I do it. There are other ways that may be better/easier. WARNING: Pic heavy.

Here are the tools that I use: roughing gouge, diamond parting tool, thin parting tool, 3/8" spindle gouge, flat scraper, round scraper and a skew.

The blank is a piece of figured maple about 5" long. Here it is roughed out and with a tenon cut on each end. Remember to make sure the shoulder of your tenon is perfectly flat.

Here it is sanded to 320 grit. I like to do this now as it just makes things easier to me.


Here's my sanding set up, a cheap Black and Decker corded drill with 2" scalloped discs. The discs I get from Klingspor and the backing pad from CraftSupplyUSA.


Now mark out the lid and base dimensions. I went with 1 3/16" for the lid and 2 3/8" for the body (1:2 ratio).

Part off the lid. I also start to part the bottom at this point.


Hollow the lid. I used the spindle gouge and round scraper for the lid.


Cut the shoulder for the base to register to.


Sand and embellish the inside of the lid (I always tend do this as it makes the recipient think you took a lot more time than you actually did).

This is what I use inside all my boxes. No off gas odors and very simple to apply, just wipe it in with a paper towel and use a dry paper towel to buff off the excess.


Here is the most critical step. Use your dividers to measure the inside diameter of the lid and set them just a tad wider.


Mount your base in the chuck and scribe a line with the dividers. This will be the shoulder that your lid will fit.


Turn down to your scribed line and check to see if the lid fits (it shouldn't at this point). Now VERY CAREFULLY sneak up on the final diameter of the shoulder. Take very light cuts and check the fit often. You want a snug fit so you get that nice "pop" when you remove the lid.


Once that's done, it's time to hollow out the body of the box. I'm using a forstner bit to do this, but you could use the spindle gouge or a small bowl gouge.


I've drilled it part way, finished it off with a round nosed scraper, sanded and embellished again with the skew.


Now it's time to finish the top of the lid. I like to tape the lid on. (the fit is better than it looks, I've put a slight chamfer on both mating edges).


Here's what I'll be using for my inlay. I have a friend who does wooden jewelry who makes these for me. You could use any small scrap of interesting wood. This was just a hair over 1 1/16" diameter, so I drilled it first and then did the final fitting with the square scraper.



I used medium CA glue to insert the inlay and once dry, turned the final shape of the lid. Sanded again through 320 grit.


Several coats of my favorite finish.
Part off the box and repeat the process for fitting the lid to reverse chuck the box so you can finish the bottom (sorry forgot a pic).

And here's the finished piece.


Just need to sign and date the bottom.

There it is. Questions and comments appreciated. Thanks for looking. (Not sure how this one pic ended up here and can't seem to delete it. Oh well.)


1 - 5 of 5 Posts