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Sawing against the Wind
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TJ,
This sounds like a finish I want to use on custom slab pcs I'm currently working on. :thumbsup:

Being new to this type of finishing......What are you using to "rub" the waterlox back off ???? I'm assuming this is a squegee type process :eek::blink::huh: and just filling the pores/grain ?!?

Does the waterlox (20 yrs since I've used any) come in one sheen ??? or which do you use??

Thanks in advance and also for the great info you've given already.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim
 

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so am i correct?...is it a NO?....lol
buzzzz....... time up, you picked the wrong door, Vanna show him what was behind door number two.......... lol

Ohhhhhh.... you could have had a "yes" !!!!!!!

Ted, tell him about the product:

Ok chemmy, well Tom, since the same oils your using in your formula are compatible with the ones in the incredible waterlox system - you could have used them.

But unfortunately, since you guessed wrongly, even though you knew this, waterlox has forbid you to use their product ever again !!!!!!

Sorry tom, better luck next time.

And now, who's are next contestant Ted??

Well chemmy............... here to play our game, ""Br-"oil" the brew"", From Tennessee is Tim, welcome Tim, so it says here that you have slabs you want to ruin, is that correct?, tell us more Tim......lol
 

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buzzzz....... time up, you picked the wrong door, vanna show him what was behind door number two.......... lol

Ohhhhhh.... you could have had a "yes" !!!!!!!

Ted, tell him about the product:

Ok chemmy, well Tom, since the same oils your using in your formula are compatible with the ones in the incredible waterlox system - you could have used them.

But unfortunately, since you guessed wrongly, even though you knew this, waterlox has forbid you to use their product ever again !!!!!!

Sorry tom, better luck next time.

And now, who's are next contestant Ted??
LOL...LOL.....:laughing::laughing:......that was excellent.....

but Ted, there is still time....I haven't put a topcoat on yet....so yes Ted, I will be applying Waterlox.....LOL......I am still laughing over here....good stuff....:thumbsup:
 

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I use the original sealer/finish in the orange can. You apply this with a rubber, definitely don't try to wipe that off. The lintingtane you wipe on and then I wipe it off with the blue shop towels or some lint free rags.
 

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I use the original sealer/finish in the orange can. You apply this with a rubber, definitely don't try to wipe that off. The lintingtane you wipe on and then I wipe it off with the blue shop towels or some lint free rags.
Tyler when you say you wipe it on with a "rubber" do you mean what I think you mean :blink:.......or is this some type of application tool that I just have not yet heard of?
 

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British for cloth made into a ball similiar to french polishing method but no shellac, also called pad, rubber, French - tampon, german -, Auflage.

Amazing how all these came to be names for womans or mens sundries huh? lol

Rubber [rubbing pad] has to do with the idea of rubbing the surface back and forth with finishing material.
 

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Haha yeah sorry for the confusion. As a note on making your own rubber, be sure to use only natural fiber cloth, I highly recommend wool for the inner ball and cotton for the outer wrap. I would be interested in hearing what others use...
 

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Haha yeah sorry for the confusion. As a note on making your own rubber, be sure to use only natural fiber cloth, I highly recommend wool for the inner ball and cotton for the outer wrap. I would be interested in hearing what others use...
Hey TJ, When i started out in 65 i was taught to use a wool inner pad, [usually a sock part or a sweater, etc., and fine linen [300 tpi or more] as the outer material/skin/wrap. After i was out on my own [72] i started using cotton batting and either linen [depending on the work] or high grade well washed cotton cloth [think baby diapers] for quick field work and touch up.

About 80, when i got into conservation i returned to the old methods so to say, but changed the polish itself. From there i experimented with other cloths til I found a synthetic that i really liked and used that, much more often than the linen. At least for the bodying portion of the work.

But then my own methods for building a "from scratch" filled pore friction polish are now much different than anyone else's i know of or have seen, lol.

Actually that will be in my 2nd book, so enough for now, lol.

OHHH..... i think i'll call it ""chemmyscrazycottoflaxowoolyfrictopoli tamporubpad anti-goop solution"" lol
 

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So far I have just been using a clean, lint free cotton cloth rolled up very tightly. I hope that's okay.

I do have a question though regarding just what is meant by "rubbing on a very thin coat". I am guessing that can be a very subjective thing so i wanted to ask what really is meant by that?

Would the idea be just to rub on enough material to get the wood wet? Or would it be more so to lay on a coat of a mil or two and even it out with the cloth? For example, when I apply material with a brush the coat is much thicker and heavier as opposed to the ones i rub on which can essentially just get the wood wet?

Also, how much pressure should be exerted when rubbing on a thin coat? Is the idea to simply get material on the wood and then even it out with the cloth or is the idea more so to exert pressure so as to rub it into the wood? I assume this rubbing application should be done with the grain of the wood as opposed to circular motions as if one was applying wax? is that accurate?
 

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I lay the first coat on heavy and then even it out(its thinned). The next coats of waterlox I just lay on just enough to wet the surface evenly and keep a wet edge. Don't try to go back. It dries too quickly and will streak.
 

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TJ, is that your "Lintungtane" on the pics of the walnut kitchen in your photo album? Or perhaps waterlox?
 

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LOL...LOL.....:laughing::laughing:......that was excellent.....

but Ted, there is still time....I haven't put a topcoat on yet....so yes Ted, I will be applying Waterlox.....LOL......I am still laughing over here....good stuff....:thumbsup:
Believe it or not I think I am actually liking the Waterlox on top of the PGT/Poly mix better than just straight Poly over it. The Ploy is just to plastic looking to me whereas the Waterlox (to my eye anyway) keeps the depth of the wood clear and looks more natural.....

I am still working on TJs approach and will hopefully have some results early next week. I am giving each coat 24 hours to dry so its taking a bit of time on that method.
 

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Believe it or not I think I am actually liking the Waterlox on top of the PGT/Poly mix better than just straight Poly over it. The--> Ploy<-- is just to plastic looking to me whereas the Waterlox (to my eye anyway) keeps the depth of the wood clear and looks more natural.....

I am still working on TJs approach and will hopefully have some results early next week. I am giving each coat 24 hours to dry so its taking a bit of time on that method.
I'm not real fond of "PLOY" either Tom, poly on the other hand is good if you want that deep clear plastic look, lol. [see above]

I have nothing against waterlock per se' it's all in what your trying to acheive. I used to get a similiar look with tung and a coat of cat vinyl sealer for oil look finishes in mass production that you would have a hard time telling from any other close to the wood finish. And since it's for your pleasure, I'd try everything and then make up your mind.
 

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I'm not real fond of "PLOY" either Tom, poly on the other hand is good if you want that deep clear plastic look, lol. [see above]

I have nothing against waterlock per se' it's all in what your trying to acheive. I used to get a similiar look with tung and a coat of cat vinyl sealer for oil look finishes in mass production that you would have a hard time telling from any other close to the wood finish. And since it's for your pleasure, I'd try everything and then make up your mind.
LOL......in addition to not being able to tell my butt from my elbow when it comes to finishing......I can't spell worth a crap either....:laughing:

What I am trying to do is get a close to the wood finish that comes out with a matte/eggshell sheen and is highly durable. I have been following the good advice here and am applying a high gloss poly over my PGT/Poly initial coat, just to keep things as crystal clear as possible. Now my challenge with the "POLY" (lol) is getting it down to a matte sheen without making it look dull and cloudy.

What I am finding with the Waterlox topcoat (also on top of the PGT/Poly) is that the sheen is greatly reduced (which i expected) but i still need to find a good way to matte this down without dulling it and making it all cloudy.

I'll keep playing......:thumbsup:
 

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LOL......in addition to not being able to tell my butt from my elbow when it comes to finishing......I can't spell worth a crap either....:laughing:

What I am trying to do is get a close to the wood finish that comes out with a matte/eggshell sheen and is highly durable. I have been following the good advice here and am applying a high gloss poly over my PGT/Poly initial coat, just to keep things as crystal clear as possible. Now my challenge with the "POLY" (lol) is getting it down to a matte sheen without making it look dull and cloudy.

What I am finding with the Waterlox topcoat (also on top of the PGT/Poly) is that the sheen is greatly reduced (which i expected) but i still need to find a good way to matte this down without dulling it and making it all cloudy.

I'll keep playing......:thumbsup:
Play away tom, that's really what it's all about at the beginning, coming up with looks you like and are durable.

Thank gawd ewe well neber see me mizbell enknee wurds awn heer!!:yes:
 

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What are some methods for rubbing a finish to a matte or satin sheen?

I have rubbed out / polished finishes before with progressively finer grits of sandpaper and lubricant. The finish was very nice, smooth as glass and very shiny. I am looking for a good method for ending up with a satin/matte sheen with a lot of lustre (not shine).

I have read about pumice, rottenstone, 3M compounds, etc. but wanted to know what would be technicque for a novice finisher to start out with.

Thanks.
 

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walseb2555- Talk to your ML Campbell rep about KlearVar. It has a bit less solid content than Krystal does, same catalyst as krystal and will be very similar process to apply as krystal. The KlearVar holds tighter to the grain than krystal does. It gives more of a "furniture
grade finish" than cabinetry finish but give exceptional cabinet grade finish durability. I have not personally used it, but I just took a class by MLC and they talked about the KlearVar. :)
 
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