Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
bought the 20 $ jig have one problem.joining 3/4 inch oak for doll bed.no mater what setup on jig the screw comes out at a angle to the wood to be joined.to close to the side for my liking.how can I center the jig so screw goes into center of wood to be joined. jrb72
 

·
John
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
bought the 20 $ jig have one problem.joining 3/4 inch oak for doll bed.no mater what setup on jig the screw comes out at a angle to the wood to be joined.to close to the side for my liking.how can I center the jig so screw goes into center of wood to be joined. jrb72
Hi - IMO, as with most Kreg stuff, the marketing is much better than the tool. For $20 you must have the Kreg "mini" jig which has no depth adjustment markings. If the exit to close to the edge of the side the jig is attached to move the jig further away from the edge you are referencing. Conversely, if the exit point is to close to the edge of the opposite side, move the jig closer to the referenced edge. The exit point will move approximately 1/2 of the amount of distance you change the jig. ie, if your exit point is 1/8" from the edge closest to the jig, you will need to move the jig ~1/2" further from the end of the board to get to the 3/8" you want to center on 3/4" stock. The mini jig is a pretty good tool for repair work (I have used it quite a bit for stuffed furniture repair) it isn't really a good starter tool. You need a pretty good understanding of how the system works to use it effectively.
Good Luck:smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
from jrb72

you guys are too cool thanks. will research krig site,have seen more videos than I care to.do not know about krig screws,can I use wall brd screws?.krig screws are square drive ,kits are too expensive.I did shim the end of jig 1/32 and (wood screw) came out dead center.This will be last resort method.need info on screws .jrb72
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
909 Posts
You have to use the Kreg screws for pocket holes because they are self tapping. If you use regular wood screws you'll split the second piece.

If you want to use regular wood screws for a simple joint you can do a screwed butt joint, screwing through the face or edge of one board into the other and then plug the holes using wood plug cutting bits to cut matching plugs from cutoffs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
you guys are too cool thanks. will research krig site,have seen more videos than I care to.do not know about krig screws,can I use wall brd screws?.krig screws are square drive ,kits are too expensive.I did shim the end of jig 1/32 and (wood screw) came out dead center.This will be last resort method.need info on screws .jrb72
The Kreg screws do come in phillips and the square drive. But I do like the square drive much better. You don't have to get a kit. You can just pick up a square drive bit dirt cheap. Actually when I bought my first box of the kreg screws. I got home and was like Crap they're not Phillips, but after looking through all my old bits I never used I found 4 square drive bits lol. After using them. I only buy square drive screws now, if I can get away with it.
 

·
John
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
no pics yet.john do you need smore firewood?
Thanks anyway, I manage to generate plenty myself:laughing:
The Kreg screws are a bit pricey but you can find them on sale, Sears is especially good at this. They square drive is becoming pretty common, #2 square drive is what you want and they are available at big box stores and most hardware/lumber stores. Because of the angle, you do need one fairly long or the drill body interferes with the stock. The thing about wood screws is the tapered seat, they will split the pocket hole stock and, unless they are self tapping, will also split the receiving stock. I have successfully used bugle head drywall screws but you need to use extreme caution. The other trick with pocket hole screws is the unthreaded part of the shank. That allows the two pieces of stock to be pulled together rather than pushed apart. Bottom line is if you're gonna use pocket holes, you will be better off using pocket screws. Kreg is not the only source but the prices for the things are pretty consistent. One way to save on them is to combine joinery or design so that the joints are pretty much interlocked. Also, if you use any of the Kreg plans, you can just about cut the required number of screws in half. Good Luck :smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
I hear that they're expensive a lot but I just don't see it they're under 5 bucks for a box of a hundred. Aside from drywall screws which really aren't strong enough for most woodworking tasks anyway. There about the cheapest you can get when compared to conventional wood screws or especially the pretty gold ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,644 Posts
I hear that they're expensive a lot but I just don't see it they're under 5 bucks for a box of a hundred. Aside from drywall screws which really aren't strong enough for most woodworking tasks anyway. There about the cheapest you can get when compared to conventional wood screws or especially the pretty gold ones.
I use them for just about anything when it comes to fastening two pieces of wood together. Great holding power. Makes jig making easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,895 Posts
I have the kreg R3 kit and don't use it a lot, but when I need it, it's nice to have.
Sometimes if I have a hard to clamp job. or where I don't want to wait for clue to dry, or have clamps in the way, I will use them.

If you don't like the price of the screws, glue and screw the joint, then when the glue is cured, remove the screws!
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top