I think the bevels on the footboard post are there to allow your box springs to be closer to the end of the bed. Other wise you will have a knuckle buster waiting for you to tuck the sheets in. Also that way the bed spread will hang almost straight down over the footboard. That is a really beautiful plan. Hope you will post pictures when you have yours done. Good luck.
King Bed Plan Help
So, I am in the middle of building my king sized bed....and I have to say I think I bit off more than I can chew at this point. I have the headboard mostly assembled. I am just trying to figure out the rails and footboard.
I am following this plan: http://www.jrlwoodworking.com/2013/06/furniture-plans-ana-white-inspired.html
With some modifications - I will be using a mortise and tenon joint on the foot rail into the 4x4 posts. I want to avoid using pocket screws here. I will also be using another mortise and tenon on the bottom rail of the headboard for the box springs to sit on. I will be using hardware from rockler for the side rails and center rail, so it can be disassembled easily.
My main concern is why they cut a bevel in the posts at the foot of the bed. The blog doesn't explain it very well. Is it so the box springs can fit into the bed? Is there any way I could avoid using the bevel? I have a friend helping me tomorrow with the hardware for the rails and the mortise and tenons. I just want to get the final design down before resuming work. Thanks!
I am following this plan: http://www.jrlwoodworking.com/2013/06/furniture-plans-ana-white-inspired.html
With some modifications - I will be using a mortise and tenon joint on the foot rail into the 4x4 posts. I want to avoid using pocket screws here. I will also be using another mortise and tenon on the bottom rail of the headboard for the box springs to sit on. I will be using hardware from rockler for the side rails and center rail, so it can be disassembled easily.
My main concern is why they cut a bevel in the posts at the foot of the bed. The blog doesn't explain it very well. Is it so the box springs can fit into the bed? Is there any way I could avoid using the bevel? I have a friend helping me tomorrow with the hardware for the rails and the mortise and tenons. I just want to get the final design down before resuming work. Thanks!
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I was planning on using a mortise and tenon where the foot rail connects to the 4x4 post. Do you think I have to toss that idea with the bevel? I will be connecting a 2x10 to a 4x4.
If your 4 X 4's are 3 1/2 X 3 1/2 and you inset the 2 X 10 foot board 1/4" then you would have to leave a 1 3/4 flat on the leg. If you use a mortise & tenon joint your beveled leg / footboard joint should have no step or inset. I would think that M & T joint should be strong enough. I have built a lot of headboards but never a footboard. Be careful with the measurements of your mattress & box spring. I built full size lower / twin size upper bunk beds for the G. kids. I used the measurements of the mattress off the internet. Their mattresses were 3 inches narrower than the internet said. Also be careful to measure the height of your box spring. Some of the new mattresses are real tall and the box spring is only 5 or so inches. You may want to put the cleats that hold the box spring so the box spring is level with your rails. Don't need to bust your knuckles when you put the fitted sheet on if your mattress is close to the rails. Good luck with your project and don't forget to post pictures when you are done.
I really like the look of the bed. Please post pictures during the build.
Beveled 4x4 at the Footboard
Hi guys! My name is Kristen, I'm actually the owner of JRL Woodworking (along with my husband). I noticed we had a few hits to our website through this site, so out of curiosity, I clicked the link and it brought me here.
You had asked about the bevel on the 4x4 posts where the footboard would be. The reason we beveled those out was so that our box springs would fit better. Not only that, but it allowed them to sit evenly in the whole frame. If we hadn't beveled it out, it would have pushed out box springs forward too far. I'm sure there's a way to build the frame and footboard part without doing the bevel, but I we wanted it there for our boxsprings. Also, you could probably build the frame without the 4x4. I, however, wanted the more chunky look at the legs and I also wanted to add the bun feet.
Good luck on your project! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Hi guys! My name is Kristen, I'm actually the owner of JRL Woodworking (along with my husband). I noticed we had a few hits to our website through this site, so out of curiosity, I clicked the link and it brought me here.
You had asked about the bevel on the 4x4 posts where the footboard would be. The reason we beveled those out was so that our box springs would fit better. Not only that, but it allowed them to sit evenly in the whole frame. If we hadn't beveled it out, it would have pushed out box springs forward too far. I'm sure there's a way to build the frame and footboard part without doing the bevel, but I we wanted it there for our boxsprings. Also, you could probably build the frame without the 4x4. I, however, wanted the more chunky look at the legs and I also wanted to add the bun feet.
Good luck on your project! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Thanks for the reply! Are you guys from Utah? I was wondering where you got the specialty trim piece for the headboard? That's the last thing I need to buy for the project.Hi guys! My name is Kristen, I'm actually the owner of JRL Woodworking (along with my husband). I noticed we had a few hits to our website through this site, so out of curiosity, I clicked the link and it brought me here.
You had asked about the bevel on the 4x4 posts where the footboard would be. The reason we beveled those out was so that our box springs would fit better. Not only that, but it allowed them to sit evenly in the whole frame. If we hadn't beveled it out, it would have pushed out box springs forward too far. I'm sure there's a way to build the frame and footboard part without doing the bevel, but I we wanted it there for our boxsprings. Also, you could probably build the frame without the 4x4. I, however, wanted the more chunky look at the legs and I also wanted to add the bun feet.
Good luck on your project! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Got the mortises cut in the posts last night - life is good when you have a friend with a mortising machine! We figured out on the posts of the bed that the bevel is needed - but that it would run right through the mortises we had cut if at a 45 degree angle. So instead we will cut a 90 degree notch in the corners for the box spring clearance. It won't look great, but it will be covered by the bedding anyway. I will post pictures soon!
Specialty Trim Piece
Yes, we are in Northern Utah. We got the trim piece from CR Doors & Moulding in Springville. Their website is http://crdoors.net/ and to see a catalog of the trim they have in stock, go to http://crdoors.net/files/moulding_web.pdf. The piece of trim we got from them was the 3/4" Pencil. You can get it in either knotty alder or finger joint. It's not usually recommended to use the FJ, but we did and you can't tell at all. I knew I was doing a darker stain so I figured we'd be safe to try it. It ended up working just fine.
Yes, we are in Northern Utah. We got the trim piece from CR Doors & Moulding in Springville. Their website is http://crdoors.net/ and to see a catalog of the trim they have in stock, go to http://crdoors.net/files/moulding_web.pdf. The piece of trim we got from them was the 3/4" Pencil. You can get it in either knotty alder or finger joint. It's not usually recommended to use the FJ, but we did and you can't tell at all. I knew I was doing a darker stain so I figured we'd be safe to try it. It ended up working just fine.
Awesome - we live in Springville!Yes, we are in Northern Utah. We got the trim piece from CR Doors & Moulding in Springville. Their website is http://crdoors.net/ and to see a catalog of the trim they have in stock, go to http://crdoors.net/files/moulding_web.pdf. The piece of trim we got from them was the 3/4" Pencil. You can get it in either knotty alder or finger joint. It's not usually recommended to use the FJ, but we did and you can't tell at all. I knew I was doing a darker stain so I figured we'd be safe to try it. It ended up working just fine.
8
Thought I would add some photos I took during the build. I just need to finish the center rail and then I can sand and paint. The center rail is posing a problem. I don't have enough room at the bottom of the footboard and headboard rails to mount the hardware from rockler for it. I am thinking about adding a decorative piece of wood that would add the needed room at the center of the rails for mounting the hardware. Any thoughts on the best way to do this?
Cutting mortises in legs for foot.
Fitting mortise and tenon
Gluing
Installing rail hardware - had to route to fit.
Other side routed and cut for hardware.
Routing notches in legs for boxsprings
Getting it together
Almost done!
Cutting mortises in legs for foot.
Fitting mortise and tenon
Gluing
Installing rail hardware - had to route to fit.
Other side routed and cut for hardware.
Routing notches in legs for boxsprings
Getting it together
Almost done!
About a year ago I built the almost exact same King sized bed for our master bedroom. The only thing I did different was that I Used full 4X4s as legs, and cut ledges on two sides of each the legs to fit the rails onto, so it looks like the rails wrap completely around the bed. I then secured the rails with recessed wood screws, and inserted decorative buttons to hide the screws. The bed is rock solid, and we love it. I did not glue the buttons into the rails so that the screws can be removed if we ever decide to move the bed. We decided to stain and spray lacquer ours because we both love the look and feel of wood.
Your project looks great, and you did a great job.
Your project looks great, and you did a great job.
Your project looks great. My only concern, since you used fir, (or whatever softwood), is that you assembled everything before painting. There may be some shrinkage, especially in the 1 x 6 carsiding in the headboard, which will leave some of the tongue exposed and not painted. I have learned from experience to get the stain or paint onto the tongues, at least, before assembling, to avoid this problem. At this point, you may have to do a little touch-up some day. Again, great job!
Looks great. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the heads up - I have 2 spots where the paint has been cracked due to the wood shrinking that already need touching up on the carsiding. Always something to learn I guess.Your project looks great. My only concern, since you used fir, (or whatever softwood), is that you assembled everything before painting. There may be some shrinkage, especially in the 1 x 6 carsiding in the headboard, which will leave some of the tongue exposed and not painted. I have learned from experience to get the stain or paint onto the tongues, at least, before assembling, to avoid this problem. At this point, you may have to do a little touch-up some day. Again, great job!
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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