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Hi all. I was wondering if a. you could confirm this wood species for me. And b. a little advice on refinishing the drawer fronts. I've done many drawers in the past but none with these grooves. I'm thinking it's going to be a crapload of work if I have to get out the paper and do alllllll those grooves by hand! She wants a darker stain. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks
Beth
 

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The wood is either maple or birch or a mixture. The grooves won't be a problem to strip, just use a brass stripping brush on it when you are stripping it. Use a semi-paste remover such as Kleen Strip remover. Don't do too much of the piece at one time and keep it wet with remover for 15 to 20 minutes before attempting to rinse it off. Let the remover do the work for you and you can rinse it off with lacquer thinner or I use a power washer that is less than 1500 psi. It will clean the residue off better than any thing you could use. If you are going darker then you might want to stain it with a dye stain if you have the means of spraying. Maple and birch are prone to blotch and dyes tend to stain more uniform despite the problem with the wood. Another option if you are using a oil based stain is to treat the wood first with a wood conditioner prior to staining. The conditioner is a sealer which helps prevent the wood from blotching.
 

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Thanks Steve. I normally just use a sander to strip old finishes but was stumped with the grooves. Duh....stripper.. I actually use a SoyGel. Stuff is amazing and cleans up with water.
I always use the pre-conditioner. I will pick up some aniline dye. All I have on hand is ebony.

Oh and just curious....what do you think the going rate would be to refinish the drawers?? Just the drawers...the rest I have covered.
 

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Thanks Steve. I normally just use a sander to strip old finishes but was stumped with the grooves. Duh....stripper.. I actually use a SoyGel. Stuff is amazing and cleans up with water.
I always use the pre-conditioner. I will pick up some aniline dye. All I have on hand is ebony.

Oh and just curious....what do you think the going rate would be to refinish the drawers?? Just the drawers...the rest I have covered.
It's not a good practice to strip a finish with a sander. The sander will tend to take the finish off the surface and leave what is penetrated into the wood. Then when you apply a stain it doesn't stain right. In this case where you have details like the grooves the stripper is especially necessary. The hand sanding alone getting the finish out of the grooves would merit using chemicals. I've never used the SoyGel. When ever I strip the finish off of anything I get the strongest remover I can find. When I had a refinishing shop I used a methylene chloride commercial remover that was so strong you would panic if you felt something damp hit your skin. Before you could get the chemical gloves off the remover would start burning like fire. Since I don't refinish more than a few pieces a year now I've been using Kleen Strip. It's the strongest remover I've been able to find available to the public.


Pricing refinishing the drawers wouldn't mean very much. The price would vary from shop to shop and from different parts of the country. Doing the drawers only I would charge $250.00 plus any deliveries.
 

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I wouldn't use steel wool on any stripping endeavor. For over the counter stripper, "Aircraft Stripper" in the 1 qt blue can (not aerosol) at HD, is an MC (methylene chloride) based stripper. For the grooves, you could use a synthetic abrasive pad like ScotchBrite. They can be scraped out with a riffler. A heat gun would also be another method.

I wouldn't use a power washer, even at low pressure. It has to be used outside. It will displace toxic chemical all over the place...on the grass, concrete, or asphalt. It can kill foliage. It will spritz chemical on yourself, and it can burn through the skin. If it gets into your eyes you could be blinded.

It can dislodge previous repair work, loosen joints and dislodge veneer if present. It will pressure force water into the pores of the wood, changing the moisture content. That could cause expansion of the wood and joints, and when the wood finally dries out, could crack. It also will raise the grain.






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I wouldn't use steel wool on any stripping endeavor. For over the counter stripper, "Aircraft Stripper" in the 1 qt blue can (not aerosol) at HD, is an MC (methylene chloride) based stripper. For the grooves, you could use a synthetic abrasive pad like ScotchBrite. They can be scraped out with a riffler. A heat gun would also be another method.

I wouldn't use a power washer, even at low pressure. It has to be used outside. It will displace toxic chemical all over the place...on the grass, concrete, or asphalt. It can kill foliage. It will spritz chemical on yourself, and it can burn through the skin. If it gets into your eyes you could be blinded.

It can dislodge previous repair work, loosen joints and dislodge veneer if present. It will pressure force water into the pores of the wood, changing the moisture content. That could cause expansion of the wood and joints, and when the wood finally dries out, could crack. It also will raise the grain.










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I think you have a overactive imagination regarding the power washer but you are entitled to your opinion.

Regardless of how the remover is rinsed off the diy should strip furniture outdoors anyway. The fumes are a carcinogen.

 

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>>>> I normally just use a sander to strip old finishes

Not a good idea. Sanding does not do a complete job removing finish that will have been absorbed into the wood. This is a particular problem if you plan to re-stain. The new stain will be absorbed unevenly and will color the wood unevenly.

Use a chemical paint stripper containing methylene chloride. Follow the directions on the label.
 

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Thanks guys. I didn't know that about sanding not getting all the finish. That explains a lot with previous stuff I've done. Learn something new every time I post on here.
I will try my soy gel first. If that doesn't get it,
I will try the Kleen Strip. I hate using that chemical stuff. Cleaning it up is a royal pain. Thats why I like the soy stuff.
 

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Thanks guys. I didn't know that about sanding not getting all the finish. That explains a lot with previous stuff I've done. Learn something new every time I post on here.
I will try my soy gel first. If that doesn't get it,
I will try the Kleen Strip. I hate using that chemical stuff. Cleaning it up is a royal pain. Thats why I like the soy stuff.
If you put down some polyethelene plastic and cover it with newspaper or cardboard it's easy to clean up the mess from stripping.
 

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Steve thanks for the info. Just curious, other than doing a washing to clean off the gunk, can i just use rags to wipe down the Kleenstrip? What do I put on the rags to wipe it down with? Do I use a paint thinner or some "other" chemical??
 

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Steve thanks for the info. Just curious, other than doing a washing to clean off the gunk, can i just use rags to wipe down the Kleenstrip? What do I put on the rags to wipe it down with? Do I use a paint thinner or some "other" chemical??
It's best to scrape as much of the old finish and remover off with a broad knife or squeege. Then it would be fine to rinse the residue off with dripping wet rags. The directions on the can say to use mineral spirits however I prefer lacquer thinner. It's a stronger cleaner solvent. Also frequently change rags. It's really important to thoroughly get the residue off. Removers contain wax to retard evaporation. The wax won't sand off and will badly affect the new finish.
 
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