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I'm in the market for a jointer and am really struggling. I have a garage workshop so space is limited. I don't currently have 220V access so I am considering a few different 6" jointers. I am considering the Ridgid JP6010, the Grizzly GO814, GO452Z as well as the Jet JJ-6HHDX and JJ-6CSDX. I've also looked at a couple 8", but not sure if I want to spend the extra. Obviously the price-point of the Ridgid is very appealing, but I also want a quality machine that is going to last, without having to take out a 2nd mortgage.

I've searched high and low in my area for a decent used one, but for what people are asking and considering the shape and age of what I'm finding, I think I would be better off buying new.
I'm not a huge fan of the straight knife models, but instead of replacing that with a helical head, I might be better off putting the helical head in my planer.

I would appreciate any thoughts, opinions, experiences. Thanks!
 

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OK, I've had a 6" Craftsman jointer for 45 years, sold the very first one, then got a newer model. Both had straght blades that I have sharpened my self and I've bought new replacement ones 6 1/8" wide from Holbren.com. I've heard great things about the spiral or helix cutterheads for use on highly figured woods and to reduce the noise. If either of those are really important, then spend the extra $400 or so and get that. I also have a Foley Belsaw 13" thickness planer that's maybe 45 years old with straight blades which I remove and sharpen myself. It does a fine job for me, but I run mostly straight grain and plain saw rough Oaks and Maple through it ...... Nuttin' Fancy.

I have a 24" dual drum sander if I am making a finish surface on figured wood, but that's rare in my shop. I don't build guitars or work with burls so for me, it's mostly straight grain. The drum sander will not take more than a 1/32" cut and less than that is even better. It's not the same as a thickness planer when it comes to material removal in greater amounts.

A jointer is a companion to the table saw and the thickness planer! You should only place straight edges against the table saw fence a flat side surface down on the table because if the board shifts or twists or binds up during a rip cut ..... IT WILL KICKBACK! The jointer removes material off the bottom surface of the board you are running over the cutters ..... unlike the thickness planer which removes material from the top of the board that's running through it. If the board is warped or not flat on the bottom surface, the feed rollers will tend to flatten it out as it's running through and it will yield a curved top surface when it springs back, especially on 1" and thinner boards. You will get what you started with, not a flat top surface.

So, in the milling process of rough sawn lumber, each of the 3 machines has it's own special function and must be used in combination with the other two.
 

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...I've searched high and low in my area for a decent used one, but for what people are asking and considering the shape and age of what I'm finding, I think I would be better off buying new.
I'm not a huge fan of the straight knife models, but instead of replacing that with a helical head, I might be better off putting the helical head in my planer.

I would appreciate any thoughts, opinions, experiences. Thanks!
If you're anywhere near Milwaukee and are interested in purchasing a used 6" jointer let me know. I have a 6" Rikon jointer that was purchased in 2010. I have upgraded it with a Grizzly T27698 Helical Cutterhead. I'm looking to sell this 6" unit so I can move up to a bigger jointer. I sent you some more details in a PM.
 

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Wahuda has what seems to be some interesting options in small footprint jointers with spiral cutters. If anyone has a Wahuda jointer (used to be Cutech) the OP might be interested in your opinion.
 

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I have a powermatic model 60 and a delta rockwell 6" jointer, the model 60 is 220V and the Rockwell is a 120V. I run a lot of quarter sawn oak and facing the oak with the delta gets a little dicey at times the model 60 doesn't pay much attention to it. I sharpen the blades myself and keep them sharp. For me the straight blades are fine for the jointers, for the planer I'm installing a helical head in the 220V planer.
 

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I have a powermatic model 60 and a delta rockwell 6" jointer, the model 60 is 220V and the Rockwell is a 120V. I run a lot of quarter sawn oak and facing the oak with the delta gets a little dicey at times the model 60 doesn't pay much attention to it. I sharpen the blades myself and keep them sharp. For me the straight blades are fine for the jointers, for the planer I'm installing a helical head in the 220V planer.
For most of the time that my dad and I used that 6" Rikon jointer we were almost always using the wood we milled ourselves (poplar, maple, white oak, walnut, willow & some pine) and I never had a problem with the straight blades. After picking up a bunch of reclaimed black locust barn wood and starting to work with some exotics like purpleheart I did start having problems facing 6" stock with straight blades. It would get through that material but I had to go very slow and take incredibly shallow passes. I was thinking about spending the $300 on a helical upgrade but couldn't pull the trigger so I kept sharpening my blades and kept jointing at a slow pace.

That all changed when I hit my first buried nail in that reclaimed barnwood and ruined all three blades on the jointer. When that happened I spent the $300 and installed the helical head along with some new bearings. With that new head facing that black locust felt just as easy as facing poplar or pine on the old straight blades. The finish on the boards came out perfect and it even quieted the machine down. I've hit a few more hidden nails with this new head and taken no damage on the inserts.

I have invested in a nice little metal scanner that I should be using on all the reclaimed or urban lumber but I often forget that step before I start jointing or planing.
 

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I think for a hobby shop Grizzly is a good place to shop.

They have a catalog, price and shipping is right there in the catalog. Often sales come up...
 

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I've looked in the Grizzly catalog. Jet has a sale going this month, but no-one seems to have the jointers I've been researching. Grizzly is backordered on most of theirs as well.
 

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I've looked in the Grizzly catalog. Jet has a sale going this month, but no-one seems to have the jointers I've been researching. Grizzly is backordered on most of theirs as well.
What's their time frame on a model your interested in?

It's probably going to be worse with stimulus checks and tax refunds
 

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As far as the Jet, no-one will have them back in stock before the end of the month, some with no ETA. Grizzly varies from a few weeks to possibly months. I need to call a few more places to see if they have any in stock. The search continues...
 

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I've looked in the Grizzly catalog. Jet has a sale going this month, but no-one seems to have the jointers I've been researching. Grizzly is backordered on most of theirs as well.
Be careful with Grizzly orders for items that are not in stock. I've waited months on some items that I ordered this year that weren't in stock.
 

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Chris, what State are you in, if you don't mind my asking? I'm in south central Louisiana. I have a 6" Delta I'd give you if you're relatively nearby. I have an 8" Powermatic and 16" Northfield, so don't need the 6". Once tried to give it away via Craigslist and was surprised to get all sorts of wacko replies.....abandoned that effort.

Sonny
 

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Chris, what State are you in, if you don't mind my asking? I'm in south central Louisiana. I have a 6" Delta I'd give you if you're relatively nearby. I have an 8" Powermatic and 16" Northfield, so don't need the 6". Once tried to give it away via Craigslist and was surprised to get all sorts of wacko replies.....abandoned that effort.

Sonny
That's a phenomenal offer, Sonny! Thank you very much. Unfortunately, being in Southeast Oregon, that's a tad more than a just a commute. Very generous of you!
 

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Be careful with Grizzly orders for items that are not in stock. I've waited months on some items that I ordered this year that weren't in stock.
Yeah, I've read a post where a guy literally waited a year to get his product. He had forgotten he ordered it and when it was finally delivered, his jointer was destroyed! He accepted it and it took him another couple months to get all the parts from Grizzly to get it operational. Crazy story!
 

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I'm in the market for a jointer and am really struggling. I have a garage workshop so space is limited. I don't currently have 220V access so I am considering a few different 6" jointers. I am considering the Ridgid JP6010, the Grizzly GO814, GO452Z as well as the Jet JJ-6HHDX and JJ-6CSDX. I've also looked at a couple 8", but not sure if I want to spend the extra. Obviously the price-point of the Ridgid is very appealing, but I also want a quality machine that is going to last, without having to take out a 2nd mortgage.

I've searched high and low in my area for a decent used one, but for what people are asking and considering the shape and age of what I'm finding, I think I would be better off buying new.
I'm not a huge fan of the straight knife models, but instead of replacing that with a helical head, I might be better off putting the helical head in my planer.

I would appreciate any thoughts, opinions, experiences. Thanks!
A jointer has one purpose only, to make a flat face and square an edge. When looking for a jointer I would suggest thinking seriously about the stock you plan on making flat. A jointer will only flatten a board within the length of the bed. I would suggest the most important feature is that the beds are flat and coplanar, regardless of the jointer you purchase. I would recommend getting the longest bed possible to suit the board lengths you plan on working with. I have gotten by for years in my personal shop with a 6" jointer, sometimes wishing I had a wider one. It does not effect me that much, sometimes it requires an extra glue up with grain matching, no big deal. I had the opportunity to do work on a very expensive 12" longbed jointer where the two tables were not coplanar, even after repeated attempts by the manufacturer. It was a pretty paperweight. I have heard nothing bad, everything good about the helical heads. I still use hss which works fine for most of the generic stuff I put through it, but if I were buying new, I would go for a helical head.
 

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I'm in the market for a jointer and am really struggling. I have a garage workshop so space is limited. I don't currently have 220V access so I am considering a few different 6" jointers. I am considering the Ridgid JP6010, the Grizzly GO814, GO452Z as well as the Jet JJ-6HHDX and JJ-6CSDX. I've also looked at a couple 8", but not sure if I want to spend the extra. Obviously the price-point of the Ridgid is very appealing, but I also want a quality machine that is going to last, without having to take out a 2nd mortgage.

I've searched high and low in my area for a decent used one, but for what people are asking and considering the shape and age of what I'm finding, I think I would be better off buying new.
I'm not a huge fan of the straight knife models, but instead of replacing that with a helical head, I might be better off putting the helical head in my planer.

I would appreciate any thoughts, opinions, experiences. Thanks!
First thing. You do not tell us what type of woodworking you do. Therefore we have no idea of what type of jointer would be good for you. In addition to what type of work you do, we should also know just how much you would be using the jointer.

Without this information, making a recommendation is really just a guessing game.

George
 

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Chris, what State are you in, if you don't mind my asking? I'm in south central Louisiana. I have a 6" Delta I'd give you if you're relatively nearby. I have an 8" Powermatic and 16" Northfield, so don't need the 6". Once tried to give it away via Craigslist and was surprised to get all sorts of wacko replies.....abandoned that effort.

Sonny
Sonny,

I can relate to what you are saying about shoppers answering an on line for sale advertisement. I was trying to Sell a Minimax Bandsaw, the people that was coming to look at the saw made feel as though I was not only taking my life in my own hands But I felt they were inventorying what else was in the shop for future needs. I quickly gave up on that venture and kept the saw. Since then I have corrected some issues the saw had and it is now one of the best band saws I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
First thing. You do not tell us what type of woodworking you do. Therefore we have no idea of what type of jointer would be good for you. In addition to what type of work you do, we should also know just how much you would be using the jointer.

Without this information, making a recommendation is really just a guessing game.

George
Good point George.
I'm a hobbyist. Just getting back into woodworking after being away from it for several years. Right now I'm doing smaller projects: centerpieces, built in and stand-alone cutting boards and various small projects for family and friends. I want to get into larger projects (furniture pieces, but not huge ones) and use mostly rough sawn lumber, live edge and some exotics.
I'm a weekend/evenings woodworker but want something that is big enough to grow with me, and last, without over/under doing it.
Hope that helps.
 

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Reads like you will be doing about what I used to do. I found a standard Craftsman 6 " jointer to be all I needed.

George
 
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