[SomeDudeOnline]

Hello all,

I'm not much of a jig person partially because of laziness and partially because I can usually make do without. However, I'd like to make some cuts that are a bit sketchy and would like to make it more safe. I've made these cuts in the past and it turned out alright, but I want to be safer. What I'm working on are Knights for a chess set.

The first picture below is the finished version of a knight that I've done in the past, the second picture is that same piece from the back, the third picture is the piece that I have ready to cut with some red lines added so that you can see roughly where I'd like to make the cuts, and the final picture is a sketch of the jig idea described below (my bandsaw blade isn't that big haha).

The way that I made these cuts in the past was by laying the piece on its side in the groove of a flat board and then held the piece in place while making the cut on the bandsaw. My idea for a jig would be to screw the piece to a small board (I used a screw chuck to turn the piece) and attach that board perpendicularly to another board (with the ball resting on that board). This seems like a decent enough plan to me but I figured if I'm going to make a jig, I should consult folks that are more accustomed to making jigs.

 

[SomeDudeOnline]

Turn you another one that is about a foot long. That would give you something to hold onto to bandsaw the top. Then when you get it all shaped and sanded cut it to it's finished length.

That’s not a bad idea but it would mean wasting the pieces I already made. I think it would also be a little extra tricky to turn the ball properly (for me).

 

[SomeDudeOnline]

If you didn't mind a hole in the bottom of your pieces you could screw a board to the bottom to hold it so you could bandsaw the top. With the board perpendicular to the part it would help keep the cuts parallel with each other.

Can you elaborate on this? I'm not sure how it's different than my sketch.

The nice thing about a bandsaw is all the forces are traveling down and forcing the work piece into the table. Maybe just make a thicker fixture to cradle the head being cut. I guess you can also make a relief for the base as well to keep things stable.

View attachment 445096

I definitely like this idea for added stability. Would you just carve that out with a dremel?

Rather than use a large piece of “good” stock, I frequently glue a piece of “good” stock to a piece of sacrificial wood; sandwiching a piece of brown paper in-between. I do this when using exotics to reduce waste. The joint separates relatively easily when the job is done and the residual paper can be sanded off. You could still do this to ones you’ve already made and glue a support piece under the ball if necessary. It doesn’t have to be a ton of glue.

That's a handy tip. However, I'm leaning toward the screw idea though since it's more easily repeatable (just thread the piece on and go).

All good ideas but I a bandsaw?

I would use a handsaw, specifically a Japanese dozuki. If you don’t own one, buy one today 😁.

That said, I might do this with a chisel. You are paring downhill grain, lay the piece with head against a stop.

Another way to do it is a belt sander.

With all 3 of these, I would do what you suggested about screwing to larger piece of wood you can stabilize or clamp.

I like the bandsaw because it's quick and I'm familiar with it (especially if I'm going to be making the jig anyway). I'm familiar with the belt sander too but anytime I try to use the belt sander for something like this, I manage to screw up the angle or go too far.

 

[SomeDudeOnline]

Use a Forstner bit for the round end (head). This needs to be smaller so the round end (head) is elevated and level with the table. Then make a slot for the base end. A few drill holes connected with a file keyhole saw will make that. Then if needed, carve out some area for the funnel shape. If your bandsaw table doesn't tilt or if you just want to make plumb cuts, you'll need to finish the head with files/rasps/sandpaper/etc.

I see, I see. Thanks!

 

[SomeDudeOnline]

Similar to this? (which may need support block under the "ball" portion depending on the diameter of the base portion of the chess piece).
View attachment 445111

As I understand it, this fixture above, is only the 1st half of an entire "jig". This fixture does nothing more than hold the work piece for free hand cutting on the bandsaw.
If you are making multiples and want repetitive results, there needs to be a way to index the fixture angle to angle and maintain a known relationship to the bandsaw blade.
Thus your work holding fixture could be set on top of a sled base, that is guided using the miter slot in the bandsaw table. Dowels or stop blocks in the sled will locate the holding fixture in either position "a" or position "b" for repeatable results.

Red line indicates blade path.
Tan rectangle is guide rail on bottom surface of the sled to engage miter slot in saw table.


View attachment 445112

That is smart. I was just thinking I'd use the initial cuts I make that also cut the base as guides for future cuts. I think I might make this sled though. Thank you!

 

[SomeDudeOnline]

I could easily be missing something obvious, but could you form the head with your bandsaw before turning the base? You could make a tapered jam chuck to wedge the knight head into (base toward the tailstock), or leave extra material at the base and mount with a worm screw.

That... is probably the way to go in the future. I hadn't considered that because when I turn things on the lathe, the first thing I do is get a nice round surface and making the cuts first would leave me with two surfaces. I've avoided things like this in the past because it makes the turning a little scarier but I think I'm comfortable/familiar enough with the lathe now to give that a shot next time I do a pair of knights.