lived in japan for 3 years, I doubt the Japanese invented it but certainly perfected it. it is very deep, no defects, and is so perfect you think it may be like a plastic. very impressive. haven't seen it on anything (except what I own) since I left.Is there a difference in the technique used for black lacquer vs any other colored lacquer. Do the Japanese do anything different?
George
I would not expect water based lacquer to have as good a finish. The many, many coats is the key to success of all of the Japanese work I have seen.lived in japan for 3 years, I doubt the Japanese invented it but certainly perfected it. it is very deep, no defects, and is so perfect you think it may be like a plastic. very impressive. haven't seen it on anything (except what I own) since I left.
tried to duplicate it here on a project line. bought a hvlp gun and black everything water base lacquer. read and read. sprayed many many coats. came close - but it was laborious. I'm sure with some practice, someone more talented in the finish world could do better.
There is a difference in Japanese lacquer. It's derived from the sap from a lacquer tree and pigmented black. It's a better product and more durable than the synthetic product produced by the paint companies. It's also more dangerous to work with. It can give you a rash like you got into poison ivy.Is there a difference in the technique used for black lacquer vs any other colored lacquer. Do the Japanese do anything different?
George
Would an unwaxed shellac (Sealcoat) work under lacquer!Black lacquer should be easy enough. Seal the wood with a lacquer primer or lacquer sanding sealer and then topcoat with a high gloss black lacquer. It all has to be sprayed but should be very easy to do.
after my 4 yr air force career - '79-'82 Kadena AB gs-14 civilian contractor for goodyear aerospace. what about you George?Where were you in Japan? I spent over 2 years on Okinawain '60 to '62. In those days we did not consider it Japan.
George
I’d seen this two part video on YouTube where they mix lye and iron sulfate to make the black pigment to add to raw lacquer. What I’m hoping to find are step by steps for applying it to a table to get that deep, high gloss appearance. My plan is to have sides and top in black with shaped maple legs.DID SOMEONE SAY JAPAN!?
I've never done any finish like that before however I do know that a traditional black lacquer finish is a pain to do. It's not a Japanese video however it is still a very interesting how it's done traditionally. How a traditional Korean inlaid lacquer box is made - YouTube
I would think the color doesn’t matter, black or otherwise. This will be my first attempt at using color, other than stain, on a piece. I think a Luthier may be my best source for techniques to get what I want, but was hoping someone on here might give me some direction.Is there a difference in the technique used for black lacquer vs any other colored lacquer. Do the Japanese do anything different?
George
You’re right, it sounds very laborious! But I’m hoping for a high luster finish like you’d find on a guitar. If that takes a while to create, so be it!lived in japan for 3 years, I doubt the Japanese invented it but certainly perfected it. it is very deep, no defects, and is so perfect you think it may be like a plastic. very impressive. haven't seen it on anything (except what I own) since I left.
tried to duplicate it here on a project line. bought a hvlp gun and black everything water base lacquer. read and read. sprayed many many coats. came close - but it was laborious. I'm sure with some practice, someone more talented in the finish world could do better.
Any idea if there are any commercial lacquers available that are close to the Japanese raw lacquer? I imagine getting the materials for raw lacquer is impossible here in the US, so what are other options?There is a difference in Japanese lacquer. It's derived from the sap from a lacquer tree and pigmented black. It's a better product and more durable than the synthetic product produced by the paint companies. It's also more dangerous to work with. It can give you a rash like you got into poison ivy.
Normally a lacquer finish is very thin. The Japanese lacquer look you can do with synthetic lacquers but it has to be a lot thicker and rubbed out and buffed to a very shinny sheen. Going thick with lacquer means a lot more drying time between coats. It can easily crack if rushed.
My station was right outside Kadena. I retired from the AF in 1982 at Eglin AFB and purchased a Feed and Seed business. Ran that until 1998 when I sold it.after my 4 yr air force career - '79-'82 Kadena AB gs-14 civilian contractor for goodyear aerospace. what about you George?
'60 - '62 were serious years
I really can't answer your question. I just looked up the origins of lacquer one time and thought it was interesting that someone would make a product out of something that would give you the itchy. I mean I've got poison oak growing all over my place and I go to great lengths to stay away from the stuff.Any idea if there are any commercial lacquers available that are close to the Japanese raw lacquer? I imagine getting the materials for raw lacquer is impossible here in the US, so what are other options?
Either standard shellac or unwaxed shellac is compatible with lacquer however I don't think it would make a good foundation for what you are doing. You are needing to build thickness and shellac tends to crack when thick. You would be better off with lacquer sanding sealer or lacquer primer.Would an unwaxed shellac (Sealcoat) work under lacquer!
Thanks for that info. Do they possibly carry a black undercover? or can they tint as the customer request?Sherwin Williams sells a lacquer called Bushwacker White Lacquer Undercoater which you could build most of the thickness. They can tint it to where it isn't completely snow white.
That is something I'm unable to look up. Any info on products is in PDF form and my computer won't open it.Thanks for that info. Do they possibly carry a black undercover? or can they tint as the customer request?
