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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of building a custom vanity for my bathroom. I have a general design built using Sketchup, but I'm stuck on one design issue. What hinges are available that are concealed/hidden that I could mount to the face of my leg posts and install the doors? Everything I've seen shows the hinges in a 90 degree position when the door is closed or has the hinge exposed on the outside of door.



I know zilch regarding hinges, so any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Not a surprise you are having difficulty. The reason most hinges mount on the side is due to the hinge mechanism taking up space. No one wants the door to have a gap for the depth of the mechanism.

These SOSS concealed hinges may work, depends on how heavy the door will be and whether the door is thick enough for the size of hinge needed.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=64335&cat=3,41241,41265
 

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I think I would use a euro hinge. It would mount to the interior face rather than were you have them noted in your design but they are going to be concealed when the door is closed. You can fine them at any hardware store or home imporvement warehouse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I would use a euro hinge. It would mount to the interior face rather than were you have them noted in your design but they are going to be concealed when the door is closed. You can fine them at any hardware store or home imporvement warehouse.
My only concern with mounting on the side is the clearance. Because the hinge would not be mounted on the edge of the door, but rather roughly 2" from the edge, I guessing as the hinge opens the additional 2" will bind and prevent the door from opening. The alternative I'm guessing would be to cut a deep groove into the leg that would allow the euro hinge to be mounted in the appropriate location, but that may look a little contrived.



The barrel hinges look like they mate to the butt of a door and not the backside of a door. While they could be mounted to the backside, I suspect it would adversely affect the hinges as the weight of the door is no longer inline with the hinge but exerting a torsional force on the hinge.

Any other suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can use a Blum compact 33 hinge like this.

And use a Blum face mounted plate like this.

The bore hole for the hinge cup is drilled about 1/16" from the edge of the door, and the plate can mount anywhere on the face. It does set the door out about 3/32".










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Thanks! This is along the lines of what I had in mind. Two questions regarding these hinges:

The 3/32" offset; could that be countered by a shallow (3/32") groove on the face of the leg or is there something I'm overlooking there?

Also, I see the door needs to be better than a 1/2" thickness to receive the hinge cup. I don't recall the depth of my doors, but assuming their not that thick, is there any reason you couldn't reverse the hinge placing the cup in the leg instead?

Great feedback!
 

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I will say that the door should be at a minimum at least ½" thick where the hinge mounts just for stability. The door is proximal to the face of the leg in that those hinges need a gap to allow for the cranking characteristics of the hinge.

If you reversed the positioning of the cup and the mounting plate, the gap would still be needed. If the cross rails are ¾", and the door was say...5/8", you can flush out the door face to the rails. If you want to experiment with reversing those parts do it with a sample mock up. I would use the hardware as it is intended.

Those hinges allow for any overlay amount which other hinges aren't capable of. When I've used them and needed to keep them flush, the surrounding fascia was increased to 7/8", when the door was ¾".





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