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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After posting a few specific questions and getting great answers, I figured it might be worth a shot to post my project on here for any help/tips/errors anyone has that might save me some time and headache down the road. This is my first piece of large furniture, so I am not that well versed with how things should be done, I am kind of winging it based on what I've seen and what I've been able to pick up with some smaller projects.
Another user here (Steve Neul) already pointed out, on a separate, that on the face frame the stiles should go all the way to the top and bottom, I plan on fixing that.

I appreciate the feedback, if you see anything you would do differently or any errors, let me know.

Materials:
3/4 Sande plywood for everything except backing, bench, and face frame
3/4 Maple plywood for bench
1x2 poplar for face frame
1x3 poplar for face frame
1/4 beadboard for backing (might switch that to solid plywood)
Overall length: 62"
Overall height: 80"

Without face frame:
Rectangle Material property Font Parallel Diagram

Table Rectangle Computer monitor accessory Parallel Drawing


With face-frame:
Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Drawing

Table Furniture Rectangle Cabinetry Chair
 

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Termite
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Are you applying an end on the base?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you applying an end on the base?
I'm not sure what you mean, I am putting together a face frame for each side of the lower (bench) and maybe for the upper sides as well. I will also be putting crown at the top for a more finished look.
 

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Termite
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I think Steve illustrated a frame over end panel in another topic..
 

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The top shelf is fine running all the way if it has trim. How are you fastening the middle upper shelf. Butt joint, poket screws, dado, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The top shelf is fine running all the way if it has trim. How are you fastening the middle upper shelf. Butt joint, poket screws, dado, etc?
I will most likely either use pocket screws or drive screws from the outsides and cover it with trim. I thought about a dado, but fear my skill with a router (or lack thereof) will introduce too much slop and make the shelf uneven.
 

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You could put a rounded trim or a piece of 1/4 round to help hold it. This would keep you from extra work on the finished end...
 

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If the dividers in the upper unit are tied to a 3/4" back you should be ok, but if its free floating it will sag. In that case I would either make the top a double layer of ply or use a hefty hardwood bullnose edging to the bottom.

Another thing to consider: I like to make the bottom high enough to run baseboard around. It ties a unit into the room and makes a pro job of it. Plus, the unit if right up against the wall no gap. Cut the existing baseboard when you install the unit, and cope in the new.

There are a myriad of YT videos out there on building cabinets and built -ins. Mike Farrington does it for a living so he's worth checking out. He uses some expensive tools, but a biscuit joiner and pocket jig would be all you need. If you have a router another one to check is Marc Sommerfeld. I've built cabinets using his tongue and groove technique and it really works. He also has an excellent demo on building face frames with pocket screws.

If you plan on doing more ww'ing, you need a router.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If the dividers in the upper unit are tied to a 3/4" back you should be ok, but if its free floating it will sag. In that case I would either make the top a double layer of ply or use a hefty hardwood bullnose edging to the bottom.
I have 1x2 poplar riser spanning the length of the bottom shelf for the upper that is part of the face frame, do you think that would be enough? The bottom shelf of the upper unit is also sitting on the 1x3 frame to give it extra support. The back will be either 1/4" beadboard or plywood. If more support is needed, what about corbels on the lower shelf?

Another thing to consider: I like to make the bottom high enough to run baseboard around. It ties a unit into the room and makes a pro job of it. Plus, the unit if right up against the wall no gap. Cut the existing baseboard when you install the unit, and cope in the new.
I had considered this, but was a little concerned raising the whole unit up ~3 inches. I didn't want to stack more plywood sheets at the bottom because of weight, maybe I could cut 5 or 6 pieces and attach them to the bottom to raise the whole thing up?

There are a myriad of YT videos out there on building cabinets and built -ins. Mike Farrington does it for a living so he's worth checking out. He uses some expensive tools, but a biscuit joiner and pocket jig would be all you need. If you have a router another one to check is Marc Sommerfeld. I've built cabinets using his tongue and groove technique and it really works. He also has an excellent demo on building face frames with pocket screws.
Thanks I'll have to check this out.
 
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