Can you clamp the fence down tight once you have it perfect and before drilling and screwing to hold it from moving?
Issue Keeping Cross Cut Fence Square After 5 Cut Method
Good Morning,
Newbie here to both this group and to woodworking.
Does anyone have any tips on keeping the fence square on a cross cut sled while putting in the remaining screws once you've confirmed it square using the 5 cut method?
I built my first cross cut sled and squared the fence using the 5 cut method. I'll get it to .001 or even a few times at .000 and as soon as I install a few more screws to secure the fence to the bottom, I lose my accuracy. I do predrill the holes.
Needless to say, I'm extremely frustrated...though my husband's ecstatic that he hasn't had to split kindling for the woodstove lately. lol
I've watched countless videos on woodworkers building a cross cut sled and using the 5 cut method and at the end, when they've finished squaring, they just flip the sled over and finish screwing it down. I'm curious if they do a retest after to confirm it's still accurate like I do...and if so...what's their secret?
Thanks
Pam
Newbie here to both this group and to woodworking.
Does anyone have any tips on keeping the fence square on a cross cut sled while putting in the remaining screws once you've confirmed it square using the 5 cut method?
I built my first cross cut sled and squared the fence using the 5 cut method. I'll get it to .001 or even a few times at .000 and as soon as I install a few more screws to secure the fence to the bottom, I lose my accuracy. I do predrill the holes.
Needless to say, I'm extremely frustrated...though my husband's ecstatic that he hasn't had to split kindling for the woodstove lately. lol
I've watched countless videos on woodworkers building a cross cut sled and using the 5 cut method and at the end, when they've finished squaring, they just flip the sled over and finish screwing it down. I'm curious if they do a retest after to confirm it's still accurate like I do...and if so...what's their secret?
Thanks
Pam
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
If it helps..
Remove the fence and scrape off all the splinters around the screw holes on the bottom.
Your fence is not seating flat on the sled. Loosen all but one screw on the end and then square it.
Your other end screw hole needs to be slightly larger to allow for adjustment.
Once you have it 90 degrees to the blade, snug it down with a flat washer under the screw head.
You should pre drill all the through holes and only 1/8" in the sled to avoid expanding the wood.
Use a digital angle gauge to square the fence starting out:
![Wood Rectangle Audio equipment Hardwood Wood stain]()
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Your fence is not seating flat on the sled. Loosen all but one screw on the end and then square it.
Your other end screw hole needs to be slightly larger to allow for adjustment.
Once you have it 90 degrees to the blade, snug it down with a flat washer under the screw head.
You should pre drill all the through holes and only 1/8" in the sled to avoid expanding the wood.
Use a digital angle gauge to square the fence starting out:
Table Saw Sled Build
So many threads on sleds. So I had to make one. I used 1/2" hardboard, like Masonite, for the sled. Maple runners. Oak for the front rail. I haven't decided to cut though the rear portion yet. I don't see the need so far. The semi-circular 5/16" slots for the "T" bolts were routed on the...
www.woodworkingtalk.com
The thread title is:
Issue Keeping Cross Cut Fence Square After 5 Cut Method
The post above explains how to keep the fence in place once you squared it to the blade and what may be causing it to shift as it's screwed down to the base of the sled. The first pass makes a kerf in the base and that is the reference to which the fence must be squared to.
By placing the square next to the blade OR exactly on the kerf, the fence can be adjusted:
![Wood Flooring Floor Font Hardwood]()
The sled's fence must be square to the blade, nothing else. The table saw fence just adds another variable.
You'll need a "known" square that's square. You'll need a straight flat board for the fence and then follow this video:
Issue Keeping Cross Cut Fence Square After 5 Cut Method
The post above explains how to keep the fence in place once you squared it to the blade and what may be causing it to shift as it's screwed down to the base of the sled. The first pass makes a kerf in the base and that is the reference to which the fence must be squared to.
By placing the square next to the blade OR exactly on the kerf, the fence can be adjusted:
The sled's fence must be square to the blade, nothing else. The table saw fence just adds another variable.
You'll need a "known" square that's square. You'll need a straight flat board for the fence and then follow this video:
Is that an iGaging digital square?Remove the fence and scrape off all the splinters around the screw holes on the bottom.
Your fence is not seating flat on the sled. Loosen all but one screw on the end and then square it.
Your other end screw hole needs to be slightly larger to allow for adjustment.
Once you have it 90 degrees to the blade, snug it down with a flat washer under the screw head.
You should pre drill all the through holes and only 1/8" in the sled to avoid expanding the wood.
Use a digital angle gauge to square the fence starting out:
View attachment 449704
Table Saw Sled Build
So many threads on sleds. So I had to make one. I used 1/2" hardboard, like Masonite, for the sled. Maple runners. Oak for the front rail. I haven't decided to cut though the rear portion yet. I don't see the need so far. The semi-circular 5/16" slots for the "T" bolts were routed on the...
I like the use of the digital square. That looks like an iGaging protractor. I'm on their website checking them out.Remove the fence and scrape off all the splinters around the screw holes on the bottom.
Your fence is not seating flat on the sled. Loosen all but one screw on the end and then square it.
Your other end screw hole needs to be slightly larger to allow for adjustment.
Once you have it 90 degrees to the blade, snug it down with a flat washer under the screw head.
You should pre drill all the through holes and only 1/8" in the sled to avoid expanding the wood.
Use a digital angle gauge to square the fence starting out:
View attachment 449704
Table Saw Sled Build
So many threads on sleds. So I had to make one. I used 1/2" hardboard, like Masonite, for the sled. Maple runners. Oak for the front rail. I haven't decided to cut though the rear portion yet. I don't see the need so far. The semi-circular 5/16" slots for the "T" bolts were routed on the...
It's an older Wixey probably made by IGaging?
I tried to find out why it wouldn't stay on and called TS but they said to bend the battery connectors up a little which worked.
I discovered the battery issue by pressing down hard on the battery cover and it then fired up.
Because I didn't want to be without one, I ordered an 7" I Gaging from Amazon:
iGaging Digital Protractor with 7" and 4" Stainless Steel Bladed: Knife Blades: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
iGaging Digital Protractor with 7" and 4" Stainless Steel Bladed: Knife Blades: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
You're more than close enough. 3 cut method is all you need. The real test is how far off are you over 12"? Can't see light = good!!
I would never ever say disregard what WNT says
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
