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If all is in good condition, for someone starting out, it is a very good saw at a reasonable price. I have owned a few of them before.
 

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@rogerh
I moved a bit and sold each shop all tools and machines as I moved. I had been living on my boat for around 25 years Had several woodworking businesses and careers concurrently during that period. Then 5 more years in my RV. And now settled down and have started a new shop. This shop is mostly hobby as I am now retired.
The new Delta saws are not even worth their weight in scrap. Now I have a Laguna Fusion 2 table saw.
 
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This shop was sold in 2012 at the same time I retired from Offshore Oilfield wok. I had both things going on at the same time. At retirement, we cut the dock lines again and motored the interior waterways for 5 years. Then traveled the western national Parks in an RV and now here I am again with another wood shop. That is my true addiction.
Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Sky Vehicle
 

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where's my table saw?
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When the price is $25 over a round hundred, I suspect that the seller will take the even hundred amount, in this case $200.00.
Yes, it is worth that. Try and find a good 1.5 HP motor for less than $150.00. The fence is one of the oldest with the round tubes, but they were used for years all over including the school wood shop I taught in years ago. It ain't the greatest, but will be accurate if carefully aligned and maintained.
The stamped steel extensions aren't the greatest either, I removed mine and replaced them with cast iron grids, which I didn't like a whole lot better.
I finally used tables from saws off Ebay because they had the miter slots milled in and were smooth.
If there is a blade guard, pick that up as well.
 

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I'm not always about bargaining. If the price is fair, I will pay it. What is another $25 added to $200. Not much when you think about it. If I was selling it for $225 right now and someone offered me $200, I would tell him to kiss my whatever and hang up. While we are sitting here discussing price, it could be sold to someone else.
BTW, the blade guard is resting on top of the table, take a closer look.
As for the cast iron top, it is only partial. The extensions are stamped steel but that didn't seem to make any difference to me.
 

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where's my table saw?
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I never negotiate price over the phone, only in person. That has always worked for me if you ask the question in the right manner. "What's your bottom line price" for instance. When you show up to look at the machine, have your CASH in a folded amount at the limit you are suggesting and say "Will you take $200 ?"
Stamped steel extensions are fine. They're just cheap looking, because they are cheaper. I ditched mine years ago. I also have a pair of grid extensions that I haven't used in 25 years. I don't like them either. A router extension saves floor space and adds more width if you need it.
 

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I always negotiate over the phone with the promise that when I get there, there will be no further negotiations. I either either take it or walk. It works for me. Everyone has different bargaining techniques. Mine are lousy.
If the price is fair, I generally dont bargain, especially if only to get a few dollars off. On high ticket items - that's a different story. I base my price on what I am willing to spend and not what it is worth, which is usually more than I want to spend.

These are exceptional times right now and 'used' is sometimes more than 'new' prices. That's why everything in my new shop is new.

I really dont like driving around to look at stuff. I would rather be in my shop.
 

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The picture seems to show a large amount of rust on the cast iron and as others have mentioned, the extensions are stamped metal (and rusty). I think I might be inclined to pay more for something in better shape which isn’t so much of a project.
 

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I wouldn't let the rust upset me. It dont look that bad. The cast iron could be cleaned with a wire brush on an electric drill. The same goes for the stamped and it can be repainted with an automotive paint. For that small an area, a few aerosol cans should do the trick on the stamped steel. Dont paint the cast iron.

I dont know hoiw things are where you live. I live outside Houston - lots of people selling stuff and lots of ads. That didnt do me any good.
I started my shop a year ago or so. I intended to buy 'used'. Nothing decent turned up at a reasonable price. As a matter of fact, nothing at all turned up most of the time except for basket cases and even at that, the prices are rediculous. So, here I am 1 year later with all new tools and machines. My original budget was $2,000 -$2,500. I have already spent in excess of $12,000 and am still looking at tools on facebook and craigslist. Only thing I bought 2nd hand was a Radial Arm Saw which I have since sold.
I say contact the owner selling that saw, if he says everything is in working order - dont believe him. Just ask if it's ok if you brought some boards with you to test it out. When you get there, if it has been disassembled "because he had to move it" dont say a word, just turn around and walk out. I doubt if you are going to find another Delta contractors saw for that price in good running condition. If not in good running condition, pass it up. Replacement parts are higher than you might think. As for the new Delta tools - All pure junk.

For all we know, it may have already been sold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I bought it. Maybe I shouldn't have, but whatever. I didn't really know what signs to look for. I cleaned the rust off the cast iron top, and the fence seems pretty accurate, but the saw is turned a bit to the left. Is there a way to fix this? It moves my cuts away from the fence! Other than that, I like the saw. I love older technology such as this. Much less plastic, much simpler.
 

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A cat made me do it.
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I cleaned the rust off the cast iron top, and the fence seems pretty accurate, but the saw is turned a bit to the left. Is there a way to fix this? It moves my cuts away from the fence!
It is adjustable, but I'll leave it to more experienced members to go into details. First you adjust the blade to be parallel to the miter slots, then adjust the fence to be parallel to both the slots and blade.

Might be best to adjust with a new blade, just in case there are any issues with the blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It is adjustable, but I'll leave it to more experienced members to go into details. First you adjust the blade to be parallel to the miter slots, then adjust the fence to be parallel to both the slots and blade.

Might be best to adjust with a new blade, just in case there are any issues with the blade.
Thank you. You have assuaged my worries.
 

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A cat made me do it.
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Thank you. You have assuaged my worries.
Have you found the manual for the saw? It should be online. I don't know if there is a way of adjusting the blade mechanism to make it parallel or with some models you loosen the bolts holding the table top in place and shift the whole top as needed.
 

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Congrats.
I have done alignments before but dont remember how. I remember havinbg to turn the saw upside down and thats all I remember. Maybe someone here has the manual.
 
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