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Hi Folks,

I have looked at clips but have had difficulty finding ones that would work with this type of design.

So I'm thinking of 3x countersunk slots and attaching lag type screws drilled up through the bottom of the cleat. 1x screw per board.

The hope is to be able to lift the table by the top without the base tearing out. Top is reclaimed spruce. Base is new spruce.

Does this seem reasonable?

Thanks,

Greg
 

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Lag screws woud work. I would recommend drilling a oversize hole through the top rail of the table base. The oversize screw would allow for expansion.
 

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It would be wise to still attach the top with buttons on the inside of the supports. This would allow for movement of the top and prevent splitting the top.
If you use lag screws, put two near the middle say two inches apart for strength. Put buttons at the sides to hold them down and allow for expansion/contracton.
If yo do want to go with the lags on the sides, cut oval holes in the frame and use washers (ideally oval washers( available at lee valley)there are you tube videos on making buttons. Good luck with the table.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Midlandbob said:
It would be wise to still attach the top with buttons on the inside of the supports. This would allow for movement of the top and prevent splitting the top..
Hey Midlandbob, what exactly are buttons then. You don't mean plugs do you?
 

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Buttons are the wooden pieces with which you attaché tops in a way that allows movement.

If you go to you tube a search for make table buttons you will find a video. They are small blocks of wood say 1 x 2 x 3/4 inch. A rebate is cut so you leave a 1/4 inch tenon at the bottom of the piece about a 1/2 inch long.
. You make a slot in the inside of the rails slightly greater distance from the top than the other part(1/2") of the button. This is screwd up through the button into to top with the tenon in the slot in the rail thus holdin on the top but allowing the button to slide in the groove with wood movement. The buttons/clamps on the end just move with the top expansion and contraction and the buttons in the side can slide in and out of the slot the amount of the button tenon.
A lot easier if you see a picture.
. Lee valley sell small s shaped clips that do the job well in a saw curf or biscuit slot.
They do the same job as wooden buttons but are easier to use the traditional way is with "buttons"

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40146&cat=3,41306,41309.

Good luck
 

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Midlandbob said:
Buttons are the wooden pieces with which you attaché tops in a way that allows movement.

If you go to you tube a search for make table buttons you will find a video. They are small blocks of wood say 1 x 2 x 3/4 inch. A rebate is cut so you leave a 1/4 inch tenon at the bottom of the piece about a 1/2 inch long.
. You make a slot in the inside of the rails slightly greater distance from the top than the other part(1/2") of the button. This is screwd up through the button into to top with the tenon in the slot in the rail thus holdin on the top but allowing the button to slide in the groove with wood movement. The buttons/clamps on the end just move with the top expansion and contraction and the buttons in the side can slide in and out of the slot the amount of the button tenon.
A lot easier if you see a picture.
. Lee valley sell small s shaped clips that do the job well in a saw curf or biscuit slot.
They do the same job as wooden buttons but are easier to use the traditional way is with "buttons"

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40146&cat=3,41306,41309.

Good luck


From the diagram from Lee Valley would these clips be all that are holding the table top down? What would prevent lateral movement of the table top? Is it attached at the legs? Thanks, (abstract thinkingly challenged).
 

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They hold the table snugly.

You make the slot in the side slightly farther away from the top than the apparent distance. This also adds some strength to the wood holding the clips.
That allows you to tighten them up enough to hold the table firmly but allow movement. You could put in as many as you like depending on the thickness and strength of the table to hold the screws. I find the 3/4 inch fine thread Kreg screws work well with non drilling needed.
I use a small slotting bit to make the slots; it's the same bit used to instal bottoms in small boxes or drawers. I have used the biscuit cutter at times.
 

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What you have is a pretty standard trestle type table. The only attachments are going to be through the two cross pieces. That's not a problem and no attachment of the sides of the table are necessary..

To keep the top properly positioned on the support just use a single lag screw in the center of each support. The put an lag screw about 5-6" from each edge but make a 1" slot rather than just a drilled hole. That will allow for seasonal movement but the center lag bolt will keep everything in alignment.

On another point. For aesthetics I have always made a countersunk slot for the lag bolt head to move in. That way the bolt head is below the surface and never seen except from the floor. Makes a much neater and professional job.
 
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