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Discussion Starter #1
A friend at a big-box home improvement store cut my shelves leaving one side a mess (see below). The other side is fine.

Is there any way to “fix” the rough cut side so it will stain nicely?

Thanks!

gfr92y

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PXL_20210213_174318235 SM.jpg
 

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Because those cut-off saws at home centers (and elsewhere) are not designed for smooth cuts, always buy your boards with extra length. Hopefully these shelf boards have some extra that can be cut off, but I'm guessing by your question that you don't have the tools to do it. If this is true, about all you can do is brush away the splinters and then sand the boards and use a wood filler such as this. Or, ask your friend if he can put a finer cross-cut blade on that saw and cut about 1/2" off. Or, find another friend with a better saw.
 

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that's the bottom side now. Never , never expect anyone else to cut your lumber to project length. Their blades may be dull, the saw may not track true, maybe even the measurements are off. At any rate, it looks like a very open grain wood and if this is a shelve, maybe its hidden by a dado? I
 

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Because those cut-off saws at home centers (and elsewhere) are not designed for smooth cuts, always buy your boards with extra length. Hopefully these shelf boards have some extra that can be cut off, but I'm guessing by your question that you don't have the tools to do it. If this is true, about all you can do is brush away the splinters and then sand the boards and use a wood filler such as this. Or, ask your friend if he can put a finer cross-cut blade on that saw and cut about 1/2" off. Or, find another friend with a better saw.
I could have cut the plywood on my table saw. I was cheap and lazy and did not think he would have done such a stupid thing. It boggles my mind that he did not stop after the first cut and say to himself, "This looks like crap. I better stop now." Back to me being cheap and lazy... I did not want to pay the $20 to rent the store's pickup truck or expend the energy necessary to tie the plywood to the roof of my car, which was doable given my close proximity to the store and my utter disregard for those I would have inconvenienced behind me as I drive at a very careful and slow speed. (I guess that last statement reflects poorly on my character.) I now would gladly pay the "wood genie" $20 to make this problem go away!

If I reduced the width of the shelves to be the same width as the custom wooden brackets I made, I would probably still have 20% of the problem remaining. If I reduced the width of the shelves and the length of the brackets to eliminate all defects, the plastic bins that are to sit on the shelves might look somewhat oversized given the reduced width of the shelves. Although I really need to take a closer look at the depth of the bins, before deciding it is not a viable option.

I was hoping someone would have said, "Use this stainable wood putty and you are home free." I suppose that hope was naive at best. I will check out the putty you recommend. Maybe it will get me close enough for these garage shelves.

Any additional suggestions, comments, or sarcastic remarks are always welcome.

Thanks!

gfr92y
 

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that's the bottom side now. Never , never expect anyone else to cut your lumber to project length. Their blades may be dull, the saw may not track true, maybe even the measurements are off.
I am embarrassed to say, I have a new 80-tooth saw blade for my table saw.

If this is a shelve, maybe it's hidden by a dado?
I am not sure what you mean by that.

Thanks for your help.

gfr92y
 

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... I was hoping someone would have said, "Use this stainable wood putty and you are home free." I suppose that hope was naive at best. I will check out the putty you recommend. Maybe it will get me close enough for these garage shelves.
Thanks for recommending a stainable wood putty!
 

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When I had my old miter saw and blade, the bottom side was like that whenever I use the saw. I had to do a lot of sanding and always try to creatively hide that side. I tried stainable wood putty several times but they always look obvious. Maybe tried the wrong one? Now I have a new saw and blade in addition to a zero clearance plate. I'm glad I don't have to deal with this anymore.
 

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A dado is a groove cut into wood. Think of a bookshelf. The uprights have a shallow dado cut into them for each shelf. The shelves slide into the groove. Some of that tear out would be hidden if your shelf slid into a dado.

If it is a free standing shelf mounted to a wall sitting on brackets I would cut off the ragged end with a good blade. If that is not an option I would sand it down to eliminate all the splinters.

A third option is to use a router and put a decorative edge on that part of the shelf.
 

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I could have cut the plywood on my table saw. I was cheap and lazy and did not think he would have done such a stupid thing. It boggles my mind that he did not stop after the first cut and say to himself, "This looks like crap. I better stop now." Back to me being cheap and lazy... I did not want to pay the $20 to rent the store's pickup truck or expend the energy necessary to tie the plywood to the roof of my car, which was doable given my close proximity to the store and my utter disregard for those I would have inconvenienced behind me as I drive at a very careful and slow speed. (I guess that last statement reflects poorly on my character.) I now would gladly pay the "wood genie" $20 to make this problem go away!
There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing this. It is the safest and most convenient way. However, just have your plywood pieces all cut oversize so you can do final measurements and finish cuts at home.
I was hoping someone would have said, "Use this stainable wood putty and you are home free." I suppose that hope was naive at best. I will check out the putty you recommend. Maybe it will get me close enough for these garage shelves.
gfr92y
If these are garage shelves, I'm not real sure what the great concern is. Garage shelving is usually utilitarian and aesthetics is of less concern.
 
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