[Biotec]

@extech26
i did see any one cover this.
a dewalt 735X vs 735 is it came with extras like in and out feed tables and replacement knifes.

DW7351 Accessory Folding Tables

need to be cleaned.
then raise the cutter as high it will go. beware
The cutter knives made be still exposed When You Reach inside make sure it's definitely powered Down unplugged.

you need to wax all three surfaces and make sure they're completely clean before you do so.

do not use any sort of Automotive wax since most of them have silicones in them.

Johnson paste wax used to be a good product but no longer available.

there are several products out there like trewax that are similar work just as well.

after it's been allowed to dry buff it out real thoroughly.

you will probably you have to reapply a very very thin coat. when you have noticed it's starting to not be nice slippery for the board to go through easily.

note on the one i have is next no snipe. (note if you let the tables fall down the will need to be up again)

 

[alphonse53]

@extech26
you need to wax all three surfaces and make sure they're completely clean before you do so.

do not use any sort of Automotive wax since most of them have silicones in them.

Johnson paste wax used to be a good product but no longer available.

Johnson's paste wax no longer available? WHAT??? The gov't took it off the market too?

 

[Rev. A]

Welcome to the forum, Ex.
Yes, if the infeed and outfeed tables aren't precisely aligned with the center table, you can expect snipe often.
Several videos on YouTube on how to do the adjustments. Also, if you want, you can install a 48" board to almost eliminate the snipe.

I installed a long flat board, bolting it to both infeed and outfeed shelves, after getting them as close as I could. Snipe is now rare. You have to be careful to only run pieces that are long enough to span infeed and outfeed rollers, 12" long on my Delta are fine, shorter get risky.

 

[Biotec]

@alphonse53
if this works there iist of comments on this problem

Search results for query: paste wax

www.woodworkingtalk.com

 

[alphonse53]

@alphonse53
if this works there iist of comments on this problem

Search results for query: paste wax

www.woodworkingtalk.com

Thanks! Looks like I’m in the same boat.

 

[LilMtnDave]

Johnson paste wax or...This stuff is great...not cheap but based on the amount I needed to do my saw...each application is pretty cheap.

 

[alphonse53]

@Rick Christopherson,
You never answered why picking up in the board can eliminate snipe.
Or how a head mounted to a cast iron body can flex. Are you referring to portable machines?
If anything, wouldn‘t the bed be pushed downward? I’ve seen the height wheel on my planer turn a little while feeding. Only hard wood. I attribute this to dull blades pushing the board downward.

Just to throw this out there: Snipe is caused because one roller causes only half as much stress on the table, screws, and headworks as both rollers do. Since it opens the throat only half as much, the result is the knives cutting deeper until both rollers open the throat to the set distance under full stress. I hope that explains what's really happening. On better planers, the bed rollers allow you to run the feed rolls at lower tension because the wood feeds easier, which in turn causes less stress and less snipe. My dad had a 8 x 36 four head planer in his sawmill that didn't have a bed, except to stage the feed. Everything was roller fed. That was back when there were real trees.

 

[Rwhpi]

Johnson's paste wax no longer available? WHAT??? The gov't took it off the market too?

Not a government issue. Johnson's stopped final manufacturing paste wax in May, 2022. Product has been indefinitely discontinued. A neighbor of mine works for S.G. Johnson and gave me the scoop. Reason: something about problems with ingredient availability from foreign sources.

I've since switched to Trewax and Old Masters paste wax with comparable results, even for tool surfaces. Both retail for about $20 for a 16 oz. can (depending on retailer).

 

[Rebelwork]

We liked Johnson’s because it was soft, many aren’t..

 

[alphonse53]

We liked Johnson’s because it was soft, many aren’t..

I've got about 1/2lb left. At 70, it may last me till S/S goes under.

 

[Rebelwork]

It lasts a long time, but many over use it..

 

[yomanbill]

Just to throw this out there: Snipe is caused because one roller causes only half as much stress on the table, screws, and headworks as both rollers do. Since it opens the throat only half as much, the result is the knives cutting deeper until both rollers open the throat to the set distance under full stress. I hope that explains what's really happening. On better planers, the bed rollers allow you to run the feed rolls at lower tension because the wood feeds easier, which in turn causes less stress and less snipe. My dad had a 8 x 36 four head planer in his sawmill that didn't have a bed, except to stage the feed. Everything was roller fed. That was back when there were real trees.

Sorry. I can't all together agree with that. It is much simpler than that. If you are planing a long board of say 6-8 feet that is maybe 8" wide and 1-1/4" thick, it is pretty heavy. When you start the feed, that board has a long heavy lever arm that the roller springs cannot overcome. So, without support of the tail end, the weight and leverage will lift the first roller and you get snipe. If the leverage and weight is more than both springs can overcome, the snipe will continue after contacting the second roller. Putting upward support on the tail end of the board will cause the lead end to rest on the planer bed without upward pressure on the rollers except that caused by the thicknes of the board. Thus, snipe is minimized or eliminated.
Conversely, if I feed a 2-3 foot board that is only 3-4" wide through my Dewalt 733, with very little weight and little or no leverage on the rollers, I can let it feed with no help and I get no snipe because the roller springs are strong enough to hold this light weight piece firmly against the planer bed.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

You never answered why picking up in the board can eliminate snipe.

This would be easier to explain with a graphic, so let me know if it doesn't make sense to you. As I said at the very beginning, snipe isn't actually a thinning of the ends of a board, but a thickening of the middle. What you're actually doing when you lift the board at the beginning or end, is "pre-loading" the head.

Using some random (hypothetical) numbers, let's say each roller applies 100 pounds of down-force to the board in order to drive it. Therefore, when both rollers are engaged, there is a total of 200 pounds of down-force on the board, and by Newton's law, that means 200 pounds of lifting force on the head. (Technically 200 pounds of force pushing the head and/or bed away from each other.)

By lifting the board, you are pre-loading that first roller to achieve the entire 200 pounds of force from the very beginning.

Or how a head mounted to a cast iron body can flex. Are you referring to portable machines?

If anything, wouldn‘t the bed be pushed downward? I’ve seen the height wheel on my planer turn a little while feeding. Only hard wood. I attribute this to dull blades pushing the board downward.

I have a fixed-head planer. So yes, I can adjust the snipe out of my machine. Fixed-bed planers, such as Delta's 15", are more problematic, because leadscrew backlash is switching between gravity pulling the head down and roller forces pushing the head up.

Nevertheless, the forces involved with the rollers are pretty large. If you feed a board into my planer titled upward, it snaps down hard when it hits the first roller. And trust me, it hurts like hell if your finger happens to be between the board and the extension roller.

Yes, even though I say the head flexes (for simplicity), I have been sort of careful to also mention that its actually both the head and the bed (and all other components in between) that are getting pushed apart. Keep in mind that these are all moving parts, and they have interferences, play, and flexibility.

 

[alphonse53]

Sorry. I can't all together agree with that. It is much simpler than that. If you are planing a long board of say 6-8 feet that is maybe 8" wide and 1-1/4" thick, it is pretty heavy. When you start the feed, that board has a long heavy lever arm that the roller springs cannot overcome. So, without support of the tail end, the weight and leverage will lift the first roller and you get snipe. If the leverage and weight is more than both springs can overcome, the snipe will continue after contacting the second roller. Putting upward support on the tail end of the board will cause the lead end to rest on the planer bed without upward pressure on the rollers except that caused by the thicknes of the board. Thus, snipe is minimized or eliminated.
Conversely, if I feed a 2-3 foot board that is only 3-4" wide through my Dewalt 733, with very little weight and little or no leverage on the rollers, I can let it feed with no help and I get no snipe because the roller springs are strong enough to hold this light weight piece firmly against the planer bed.

1) If full length support were the cure, we wouldn't be having this discussion.
2) Snipe is a planer inherent issue with a lot of minimizing adjustments, tricks, gadgets, etc. to reduce its effects, but the root cause is as stated. I have a 735 with a set of knives hole matched to 1/1000". Across the bed I get 2/1000" variation. The tables are pitched upward, and without butt boards on 18" stock, I still get snipe at both ends of .004". With the butt boards, I get 0.000 because the planer is already stressed under the feed rollers when the stock hits the cutterhead. Long lumber without support can add to the problem, but short stock with support cannot take from it.

 

[alphonse53]

This would be easier to explain with a graphic, so let me know if it doesn't make sense to you. As I said at the very beginning, snipe isn't actually a thinning of the ends of a board, but a thickening of the middle. What you're actually doing when you lift the board at the beginning or end, is "pre-loading" the head.

I couldn't agree more. Your explanation and mine in the reply above it are basically the same. If only woodworkers were mathematicians, physicists, and chemists all rolled into one! Your applecart reminds me of Oliver Douglas' blown head gasket that Lisa's hot cakes were used to save the day!

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Your applecart reminds me of Oliver Douglas' blown head gasket that Lisa's hot cakes were used to save the day!

I had to google that to see what the heck you were talking about. Your sens of humor is even weirder than @DrRobert 's

But just in case anyone didn't get the reference, it came from his previous post.

You tripped me and now all my apple fell out of my cart. I hope you’re happy. 😆😆

 

[alphonse53]

I had to google that to see what the heck you were talking about. Your sens of humor is even weirder than @DrRobert 's

But just in case anyone didn't get the reference, it came from his previous post.

I've been following ya'lls discussion from way back. You must not be old enough to remember the best episode of every TV comedy. Yea, I'm one of those weird retired mathematician/physicist/chemist guys.

 

[yomanbill]

"...snipe isn't actually a thinning of the ends of a board, but a thickening of the middle. "

So. Your planer can actually add thickness !! Wow !! I wish I had one of those. I've got some lumber that is too thin.
I guess some planers work differently than mine does.

 

[Rebelwork]

Are the planers not coming with manuals?

 

[alphonse53]

So. Your planer can actually add thickness !! Wow !! I wish I had one of those. I've got some lumber that is too thin.
I guess some planers work differently than mine does.

I like that. I also like my explanation better, because I know better.