[Wood4Brains]

Do you have to prestain alder with sanding sealer / cut shellac to avoid blotches the same way you have to prestain pine? Or is it easier to stain alder with oil based stains (like danish oil) than pine?

What stains /dyes do you suggest work real well on alder (if you think that oil based stains are not that good).

Thanks in advance.

 

[Steve Neul]

I think the procedure for staining and finishing alder are just about the same as whitewood pine. A pre-stain conditioner is recommended. Both woods are subject to blotching. The only thing that may make alder easier is it doesn't have sap bleeding knots as pine does. For the stain, I would recommend Wood Classics Stain from Sherwin Williams. It is an oil stain.

 

[phinds]

Staining wood is a sin !

OK, I make exception for pine, but THAT'S IT! Otherwise, no staining dammit ! What do you have against alder? What did it ever do to you that you would want to abuse it that way? :smile:

 

[Wood4Brains]

I have nothing against alder... except for the fact that it isn't walnut.

 

[Steve Neul]

I have nothing against alder... except for the fact that it isn't walnut.

Good one. I love it. :laughing:

 

[Wood4Brains]

Steve:

can you reccomend a prestain conditioner if I will be using the Sherwin Williams oil stain you suggested?

also, if I end up using pine instead of alder to save a few dollars, would you suggest the same prestain conditioner and Sherwin Williams oil stain for pine, too?

 

[khowald]

On the knotty alder door I made and carved I used "Daleys" blotch control, it worked "okay", I do think the final result was very good. I used Watco "natural" danish oil on the door. I like Watco an have used it for twenty-five years, the have a medium and dark walnut; easiest product you will ever use. ken

 

[Steve Neul]

Steve:

can you reccomend a prestain conditioner if I will be using the Sherwin Williams oil stain you suggested?

also, if I end up using pine instead of alder to save a few dollars, would you suggest the same prestain conditioner and Sherwin Williams oil stain for pine, too?

I use a homemade brew. I started using wood conditioners before they were popular in the stores so the homemade brew was easier. I probably should try some different ones as they might be better than mine. I use boiled linseed oil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. It works better if you let dry overnight. According to the directions on some of the packaged ones there is a window in which you have to apply the stain. I don't think I would care for that aspect. All the conditioner is is a sealer that fills the wood with oils so it doesn't soak up so much stain.

 

[Wood4Brains]

@ khowald #7 :

Wow, that's a beautiful door, Ken.

Are you certain that was just he natural tint danish oil? It looks quite reddish too me.

Watco themselves say to use the clear danish oil as the prestain to eliminate blotchiness, and then use whatever tinted stain you are going to use. But from what you are saying, you needed a prestain conditioner BEFORE using just the clear stain?

 

[Wood4Brains]

@ Steve Neul #8

I will see about making that type of a home brew. I was looking back through some of your posts in different threads and it seems like you have suggested that in other situations as well.

One Last Question: Is boiled linseed oil really just boiled linseed oil? Or do I have to be careful which brand I choose since some will have different additives or formulas that won't work well?

 

[Steve Neul]

@ Steve Neul #8

I will see about making that type of a home brew. I was looking back through some of your posts in different threads and it seems like you have suggested that in other situations as well.

One Last Question: Is boiled linseed oil really just boiled linseed oil? Or do I have to be careful which brand I choose since some will have different additives or formulas that won't work well?

I think for the most part any brand of boiled linseed oil is the same. It at least stinks the same. It's one product I can't stand the smell and normally wear exam gloves handling it to keep it off of me. It's made from flax seed. In the area where I live Sunnyside Boiled Linseed Oil is what is available.

 

[Wood4Brains]

Thanks again.

 

[khowald]

A thousand pardons...I was thinking of the finish on my workbench, the door is finished (first, over the trees,) with Bartleys' Penn Cherry gel stain-wiped on and quickly wiped off- to highlight the bark and then the whole thing was done in a Watco, med walnut. Sorry about that; I must have been playing in the lacquer too long. ken