Is a proper name for this type of table?
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don't know the size but if only 45 degree corner's , are they dowel or spline or just glue, if just glue not very strong ? a little more info ?
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I have seen this referred to as a folder mitre, but not sure if this is correct.
Whatever you want to call it, as Del suggested the joint needs reinforcing, either with a blind spline or exposed dovetail splines.
Take a look at this thread to see how BZawat solved this issue.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/walnut-slab-media-console-build-51405/index2/
Whatever you want to call it, as Del suggested the joint needs reinforcing, either with a blind spline or exposed dovetail splines.
Take a look at this thread to see how BZawat solved this issue.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/walnut-slab-media-console-build-51405/index2/
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For me the word "Domino" is a game. I was not understanding what this meant for a type of joint.
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Gads! Is the only support of the joints going to be the dominos or will there be a semi-hidden angle bracket under each one? I would worry about lateral forces if one that size only had dominoes, but then as I said above I've never used them so maybe I'm underestimating their strength?
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I've just called that style a miter wrap. The taller/longer it is the more susceptible it will be to lateral stresses. From the looks of the one pictured, the stock looks fairly thick, which gives way for a thick insert, like a spline.
As for the Dominoes there are a few sizes, and for interior use they are Beech. The problem in using what in essence is a "loose tenon/spline", is the length that gets fitted into the two parts. With stock that thick, the positioning of the "mortise/groove/slot" would be closer to the inside corner to get the maximum depth possible.
It's also necessary to get a very good miter. Although a mitered joint isn't that substantial as far as joinery goes, a well fitted one will offer optimum gluing surface, and that would help. The dominoes would have to be machined with about 3" - 4' between them. Their effectiveness rests on their fitting, as does tenons or splines.
Another choice would be a blind spline made up with cross grain wood. Using longrain for splines yields to the weakness along the grain. They can be made any thickness or length, and from a wide variety of species. For long splines, pieces would depend on the width of stock you have at hand.
Ultimately a successful joint would depend on good fitting parts, proper use of glue, and good clamping techniques.
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As for the Dominoes there are a few sizes, and for interior use they are Beech. The problem in using what in essence is a "loose tenon/spline", is the length that gets fitted into the two parts. With stock that thick, the positioning of the "mortise/groove/slot" would be closer to the inside corner to get the maximum depth possible.
It's also necessary to get a very good miter. Although a mitered joint isn't that substantial as far as joinery goes, a well fitted one will offer optimum gluing surface, and that would help. The dominoes would have to be machined with about 3" - 4' between them. Their effectiveness rests on their fitting, as does tenons or splines.
Another choice would be a blind spline made up with cross grain wood. Using longrain for splines yields to the weakness along the grain. They can be made any thickness or length, and from a wide variety of species. For long splines, pieces would depend on the width of stock you have at hand.
Ultimately a successful joint would depend on good fitting parts, proper use of glue, and good clamping techniques.
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Paul i guess you answared my question with what you said don't know what kind of domino was used ??
I don't know that that is strong enough if there's going to be much lateral force on this table/bench/whatever but I've never used a domino.
go here and look at the joint's https://www.google.com/search?q=dom...kQeegIGgAg&ved=0CC8QsAQ&biw=991&bih=535&dpr=1
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I came up with another idea, but there again not sure if it's better, worse or equal to the domino. Done all on the ts, it's more work but could work. Cut my 45's, rip off edge stripsthen cut some dados.
![Table Wood Desk Furniture Hardwood]()
Glue strips back on, run through sander to remove glue/glue line.
![Shelf Furniture Wood Table Hardwood]()
Then glue up the miters with some 1/2 birch ply in the slots. Note I did goof up and lost the waterfall look, but this was just test scrap.
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Parsons table. It's called a parsons table.
Al
Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
Al
Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
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I hate to disagree with you, and you can call it what you want. IMO, definitely not a Parsons table. Parsons tables were designed at the Parsons School of Design. It's design came from a project to come up with a very basic table design of 4 legs with the same thickness as the top.
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Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.cabinetman said:
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Here is a link to Parsons table. One of many. Seems this guy has been in the woodworking business for a while and he sees it the same as I do.
http://www.stepskycustomfurniture.com/Gallery43.htm
Al B Thayer
Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
http://www.stepskycustomfurniture.com/Gallery43.htm
Al B Thayer
Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
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You and Gregory can call that design anything that you like. You could call it an Alice B. Toklas picture table if you want...I don't really care. Just for your edification here is a simple explanation of why it's called a Parsons Table.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parsons_Table
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Here's a few more.
http://stinewoodworking.com/furniture/coffee-tables/
I just got a few more test samples done up, one with splines, one with dominos.
Going to put there strength to the test after customer has got there look.
The only other option I can think of is to route out a pocket for some angle iron on the underside But I worry how that will do in the long run.
Or just email one of the guys who make them and see if I can pick his brain.
http://stinewoodworking.com/furniture/coffee-tables/
I just got a few more test samples done up, one with splines, one with dominos.
Going to put there strength to the test after customer has got there look.
The only other option I can think of is to route out a pocket for some angle iron on the underside But I worry how that will do in the long run.
Or just email one of the guys who make them and see if I can pick his brain.
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