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I am installing 5 1/2” bullnose in a hallway overlooking a staircase in preparation to install metal posts with steel cable and a wooden handrail.

I ripped out the last row of 4” flooring and found that the gaps b/w the last row of flooring and the “drop” in the the stairwell is not consistent. The flooring leans in toward the top of the staircase. See pic. This means the bullnose will bump into one of my metal posts and handrail. See green line in pic - that’s where the problem post will be. The metal posts are being installed on a knee wall.

What are my options to work around that issue? Do I notch the bullnose to allow for the handrail to pass thru? Or cut back that last row of flooring? Or create some type of transition reduction with my bullnose? See pic


Thanks




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What was the configuration before you pulled out the last row of flooring? Was the last row of flooring the same width along its entire length? If the top of the flooring 'leans' in is something not square?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
JIMMIEM; said:
What was the configuration before you pulled out the last row of flooring? Was the last row of flooring the same width along its entire length? If the top of the flooring 'leans' in is something not square?


Last row was tucked under a sheetrock 40” wall that was acting as stair bannister and handrail.

So the non-squareness was effectively hidden.


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not quite understand this, but ...

Are you saying the flooring does not run parallel to the wall underneath it? If so, I'd just run it over "long" and try to take up as much of the difference in the last few pieces. If that ain't the issue, then sorry for my lack of understanding. :sad2:
 

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I'm not sure how your posts relate to the bullnose, (or what the green line represents) but I think I would taper the bullnose piece to keep the nosing (the part that overhangs the stairwell) pretty consistent.

You seem to be planning for a 1" nosing, right? So the bullnose would taper from 5 1/2" to 3 3/4". Then any notching to accommodate the posts would also be consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
NVwoodworker; said:
I'm not sure how your posts relate to the bullnose, (or what the green line represents) but I think I would taper the bullnose piece to keep the nosing (the part that overhangs the stairwell) pretty consistent.



You seem to be planning for a 1" nosing, right? So the bullnose would taper from 5 1/2" to 3 3/4". Then any notching to accommodate the posts would also be consistent.

Yes 1” nosing.

So taper the bullnose and NOT the last row of flooring. I guess it comes down to which looks less obvious.


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From what I can tell from the picture the Bullnose may be more of a focal point than the flooring it abuts. If that is the case then it might be less noticeable if you tapered the flooring in order to keep the bullnose a constant width. Difficult to tell from a picture what each option would look like. In either scenario the overhang would look best if it were constant over its entire length.
 

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I may not be following you completely but I can see your problem. Will you be rebuilding the knee wall ?
If yes, I would use the knee wall to get back into alignment with the stair. Otherwise I don’t see how to hide (you say hidden above) such a significant taper.
Let us know what you decide.
 

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I would make a uniform overhang regardless of how it lines up with the flooring. Make the 5 1/2" board taper 1 3/4". Very few people will notice the taper but everyone would see a difference in overhang. The only other option would be to sheetrock over the wall and make the wall match the angle of the flooring.
 

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Did you already install the flooring in the hall above (to the left) the stairs?

If not, I would think about tapering the flooring on the other side of the hallway so that it is against the wall, where the ripped edge will be under the baseboards.

I think that would be the least noticeable. Then your nice bullnose piece will be perfectly straight along it's length.
 

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I’d keep the overhang uniform as Steve indicated, but I’m curious about how things got so out of whack. Is the foooring parallel to the opposite wall ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got it done. There were errors along the way, but it’s acceptable to me. There are some gaps bw the wood flooring and bullnose.

Do I fill those in with a stainable caulk?








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20-20 hind sight ...

Are you saying the flooring does not run parallel to the wall underneath it? If so, I'd just run it over "long" and try to take up as much of the difference in the last few pieces. If that ain't the issue, then sorry for my lack of understanding. :sad2:
I’d keep the overhang uniform as Steve indicated, but I’m curious about how things got so out of whack. Is the foooring parallel to the opposite wall ?
When laying a floor which ends in a highly visible area, measure from the far wall to the edge you will see, hoping you get the same dimension. :| If not, you can plan out a slight taper as you lay the boards along the way much easier than having to take it all up in the last few boards. Also reading a slight taper from underneath the bullnose is less obvious. You'd have to turn your head and look straight up to see any taper while climbing the stairs.

Glad you got it done. :wink:
 

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I got it done. There were errors along the way, but it’s acceptable to me. There are some gaps bw the wood flooring and bullnose.

Do I fill those in with a stainable caulk?








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To get a real good color match take a piece of the flooring and make a lot of sanding dust. Mix the dust with wood glue, fill the gaps, and then stain. If the gaps are narrow and not too deep you can drizzle some glue into the gap and then sprinkle in some sanding dust. Use sanding dust......saw dust is too coarse. If you have a mix of sand dust and saw dust sift it through a strainer.
 
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