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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, i need some help with a project i am doing. its a wine cabinet with a few inset drawers. The drawers are killin me, i dont know where to start. could some one give me some advice? it would be much apretiated.
 

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Corey,
Pick out what kind of glides you want to use. That will dictate how much to deduct from the width of your drawer box. Height of the box just has to be shorter than the opening. Mount the drawer box and allow for the thickness of the drawer face when you do it. Make the drawer face with an 1/8" margin all the way around it. Use a shim on each side to hold the drawer face in place and mount with a couple of screws from the inside of the drawer box. Take your time laying everything out and it shouldn't be that hard. Use some decent ball bearing glides and it will make it easier to center the drawer face in the opening and have it stay there. Good luck,
Mike Hawkins:smile:
 

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For inset drawers I like to have an exact fit. I cannot use drawer slides and do this very well.

I make the drawer front just very slightly smaller than the dimension of the opening. That "very slightly" is whatever amount will allow the drawer to move freely. I make the drawer slightly oversize and then sand (or sometimes use the jointer) to the final fit.

To keep the drawer from sliding all the way out I put a small "block" in the center of the back that sticks a little above the top of the drawer.

G
 

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You can also make and mount the drawer then attach a drawer face to the existing drawer and center the face in the opening. Only thing to remember is to allow for the thickness of the drawer face when building and mounting the drawers.
 

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You can also make and mount the drawer then attach a drawer face to the existing drawer and center the face in the opening. Only thing to remember is to allow for the thickness of the drawer face when building and mounting the drawers.
Winner winner chicken dinner! That's the only way that I've ever managed to do it with perfect accuracy. Hang the drawer box and apply the drawer fronts with a brad or two with the drawer closed. Using some shims as spacers helps get the reveal right. Then I fasten them from the back side with a couple screws once they're positioned.
 

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What I do is make the drawer front 1/8" smaller. then I use Formica sample chips, which are very close to 1/16, u may have to bild em up a tad with blue tape, once you get the shims where the fit is as you like, hot melt glue a dab in center of drawerbox, set the front. then drill and screw from inside the drawer. Hot melt holds great and is squishable/moveable for a few seconds b4 it sets:smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
(skymaster)- That is an exellent tip and is going to be the way that I am going to do it. Also, just a question, let's say I make a mistake and need to get the drawer face of the box, how hard would it be to get the drawer front off due to the hot glue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well you guys have been such a great help. For some reason i never thought of the idea to use hot glue. I was going to use double stick-tape, but once its on, theres on play.

even though I'm only 16, I still try to push myself to do more complex and challenging things with my projects. Some times it's hard not to get overwelmed, but soon enough it will come. "so they say".

Thanks alot everyone!
 
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