[pmaru77]

I need a 42-43" vanity for the bathroom I am remodeling. What I've found was a KraftMaid for $500 plus. Looks like under a hundred in wood to make, but have not comitted to make yet. My biggest challenge will be drawers, and something other than dovetailing it. I think I can do the doors within reason. and the rest is fluff.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Any ideas?

 

[ThomasOSB]

Go for it! There are a lot of ways to make drawers that don't require dovetailing, though with only two drawers this might be the perfect time to work on dovetailing.

 

[Fred Hargis]

Drawers made with drawer lock joints are simple and quick, Making you rown lets you do things like make it an inch or two taller (hugely more convenient) and make the drawers/doors anyway you want. To me, the bigger challenge in making that cabinet would be the paint. Painted projects seem to take a lot more care, since almost any surface flaw shows through the paint...I'd still do it myself (and will be soon).

 

[Dodis]

I'll say go for it too!

We went through the same thing, wife wanted the $300 piece of.... particle board.... she saw at Lowe's (1st two pics). It was broke and falling apart as I took it out of the box. So I measured it and returned it. Sounds like they have at least improved quality if the one you are looking at is actual wood!

With the refund, bought all the materials, paint, hardware and fixtures and still saved $100. (not counting the table saw I had to get! :icon_cheesygrin: )

Also, didn't have my router table setup, or any panel raising or drawer lock bits, so the drawers were connected with biscuits at the corners (1/2" ply), and the doors and drawer faces were just trimmed with moulding. Plus, it followed the same style as all the other cabinets already in the house too.

 

[Sawdustguy]

Along with using drawer lock bit in the router table you can use a simple dado / rabbet joint. Easy to cut on the table saw and is stronger than some commercially made cabinets stapled drawer construction.

George

 

[pmaru77]

Good deal!

You guys talked me into it. Now to decide on a design. I'll not worry about the door/drawer front design until later. I'm not going to do the euro look, but the traditional look that I posted. The finish needs to be considered, also.

 

[Fred Hargis]

Consider using prefinished plywood for the carcase. The finish is extraordinarily tough, and really makes the inside look nice (besides which you don't have to do it yourself). It costs a little more, but you're saving so much what's. a few dollars????:laughing:

 

[pmaru77]

40 year old beauty

 

[Bob Willing]

Just one more thought HD was selling bath cabinets with the top included for that price, Sometimes the top and sink can be expensive.

 

[Alan Sweet]

If you want to try your habd at custom design,

I would suggest downloading Sketchup from Google. There is a free version that has everything I have ever needed. It is great for working out design options. and making sure your dimensions work.

There is a forum on here too.

 

[Sleeper]

I'm in the same boat except that I found one at Costco that was really nice and not expensive at all, it had the counter top with molded sink and real wood that looked more like it could sit in the living room for around $350 or a little more. i can't remember the exact price only that I didn't think i could build it for that.
I figure it would probably be save me in the long run to just buy the thing.

 

[pmaru77]

The killer for me on this one is that I need the sink biased to the right, becasue of the plumbing and the wife. Plus I think it works better also. So a off the shelf vanity and top is about impossible. the bathroom is split up and has a seperate door to the shower and tiolet. I redid that with 1x2ft tile and a glass enclosure, and we would like to try to keep it somehow somewhat related material wise. But not shure how to do that.

I have a 3d cas system on my laptop that I've used for years at work, so the design will be nailed down ....so to speak.

 

[pmaru77]

I modeled the vanity today and figured that I would keep you posted seeing that I've gone this far. One question, where to put the divider. seems that there are different drawer sliding devices and designs, and the one on my old vanity is independant of the sides, and has a runner on top. Seeing that it looks easy to make and inexpensive. I figured I'd go that route. So the divider would just go in the middle of the front face mamber and basically give support to the front face and not the drawers.

Well, here it is..........
The vanity mounts to the right wall and is free standing on the left, so I have an extra 1/2 inch wide on the front right vertical assuming I will have a moulding. Oh yeah, one other thing, the kick cutout is 6x6, and beileve it or not, that is smaller than the original one. I think I should make it smaller.

Also this new one is 34" like the KraftMaid posted in the orig post, and the old one is only 30", but it is way too low. I'm 6'4". Wife is 5'7"

The original vanity is pictured in an above post for comparisons.



Other issues are how to make the drawer cover and the doors. I have 1 small drawer and 2 larger drawers and of course 2 doors.

 

[Sawdustguy]

Blum under mount slides will mount to the face frame stiles and you can get brackets to mount the rear to the cabinet back. There are also less expensive slides that will mount to the face frame stiles and you can get brackets to mount the rear to the cabinet back.

George

 

[Fred Hargis]

I have a suggestion: I built one with the sink on the left side (this one was 48" wide). But I made the doors much taller, and they are inset (no stile in between) this makes it a lot easier to do any plumbing work. BTW, the sink countertop for this was from Lowes. It was special order solid surface; like you said stock ones with offset sink bowls aren't available. The drawers on this also have the undermount self closing slides. What surprised me about them was the weight, 4 sets are very heavy.

 

[Lilblee]

I just made a double vanity. Was really fun. 6' long with 1 1/8" white carrera marble top. Will post pics later. Build it BRO

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum

 

[Hammer1]

Most of my customers are going with the newer furniture style vanities. May not be your style but they are dirt cheap considering they often include the countertop and sink. Quite a departure style wise from the simple boxes that used to be common. Here are some examples, these seem to be available all over, not just this company.
http://www.icafurniture.com/single-...ngle-sink-bathroom-vanities-37-48-inches.html

 

[Gen2026]

One suggestion I have is to consider making the vanity the same height as a kitchen cabinet. We built our home 10 years ago and I have had lower back surgery twice and HATE stooping (I am ONLY 5'6") to have to wash my hands in a normal height vanity. (sorry I do not remember the measurements of what is considered normal) Anyway, when we had our cabinets built, I specifically requested that the vanity in the master bath be the same height as a kitchen cabinet.... the guy thought I had lost it, but if I had it to do over again I might even add two inches to that height. Just works better for me because that leaned over, barely stooped position for a normal vanity is the worst for my back. It also allowed for slightly more storage under the plumbing, and I have 3 drawers to the side - one that was specifically designed to be deep enough to hold all my things that would never fit in a "normal drawer" such as tall cans of hair mouse, hair spray, extra bottles of shampoo, etc. I have only come across a couple of things in the 10 yrs that won't fit in that drawer standing up. Helped me out a lot and if you and your wife are that tall, I would definitely consider raising it. My husband and I have done a lot of construction but have never ventured into cabinet making...... if we build again, we might give it a try!

Good luck!

 

[pmaru77]

re-design

the removal of the stile between the doors is a good idea. My downstairs vanity is like that, but it is only 24" wide and 32" tall, so doors go all the way up and no middle stile. Chit, I don't know what to do. The downstairs vanity is 32 inches high with a hefty buildup on the top (tile). It was store bought, and nice lookin'. 32" seems high enuf but that KraftMade one I posted says it's 34" high. Wow, not too high? For me it would be fie, but how about the next buyer?

I'm still trying to decide on the door construction. Was thinking 1.5 and 2.5x .75 stock wood from HD with some filler board. But that is a lot of assmebly.

Below is a store bought vanity for a half bath downstairs. It is totally seperate from what is upstairs and I do not need to copy it.





Note the near zero clearance on the top of the doors and the countertop. It is about 1/2 inch. I did not lower the edge of the countertop, as the bottom of the countertop is flush with the top of the vanity. So what happens is you cannot close the doors by grabbing the top of the door to shut because it will squish your fingers. It forces you to use the knobs. To me this is a bad design.

 

[Fred Hargis]

If those knobs were mounted to the top of the door that would be less of a problem. Things like that are what makes making your own a good idea. I didn't mention with the pic above, but the one I made was about 32" high...high enough for LOML and me (I'm 5'7", she's 5'4"). But if you go taller keep in mind any children that may need to use the vanity.